Changing inner tie rods. A few Q's

[VR6 Gar 10]

Are the inner tie rods the same size for both sides?

 

Need to replace both of mine as the locking nuts for the TRE's are completely seized.

 

Looks simple enough to swap them from a thread I saw on Vortex, but is there anything I should be aware of?

Sounded as though the special tool for the inner 32mm bolt would make things easier but not vital? What have others done, can you recommend a cheap tool needed for this, or should I just get a 32mm spanner?

 

TIA

[VR6 Gar 10]

Thinking a 32mm crowfoot will probably be the best option and not that much more expensive than a spanner.

[owen g60 10]

I put 2 flats on the old joint using a grinder then used an adjustable to get them out.

[paddy26 3]

If the tie rod joint is ok could you not just put two cuts in the seized lock nuts to split them from the tie rod?

You could run a die on the threads if they're a bit rusty to ensure the new lock nuts and TRE go on ok.

It would be much easier and cheaper than replacing the tie rod and inner boot.

 

\Paddy

[VR6 Gar 10]

You are right Paddy, but Meyle Inner joints were £35 for a pair delivered, and not knowing how old they are I just decided to ordered them. Changed the ball joints today and did R32 rear wishbone bushes a few hundred miles back so thought I may as well just do these too to finish off the front end re furb.

[Dan_Storm 0]

I used a 33mm crowfoot when I changed mine. Worked ok for me. Getting the rubber boots and clips back on was a pain though!

[Jim Bowen 1]

I used a big adjustable spanner that used to be my grandad. Should be a thin metal pipe that links between the boots.

Mine was missing when I came to it.

Can zip tie the boots but the metal ties are much better. I bought the cheap tool and ties and they are as good as the ones from vw.

Worth getting the grease for the rack as well.

[VR6 Gar 10]

Your Granddad used to be an adjustable spanner Jim?

 

Is there any special grease or will some multi purpose do the trick.

[davidwort 0]

The 'correct' track rod replacement method is to remove the rack, hold the toothed rack in soft faced jaws and unbolt the track rod, in theory simply spinning them off with a spanner while the rack is in the car can damage the rack, in reality most garages replace them with the crude method and there's rarely a problem.

I borrowed a track rod removal tool that makes the job so easy and the garage that uses it day in day out haven't screwed up anyone's racks yet! I've done at least 3 Corrado track rods myself with the crude method and no issues.

[Jim Bowen 1]

Your Granddad used to be an adjustable spanner Jim?

 

Is there any special grease or will some multi purpose do the trick.

 

Whoops, missed a letter there :lol:

 

 

VW do sell a squeezy tub of it, don't think its that expensive, not sure what is special about it if anything.

[jamiehamy 0]

I bought the took off Amazon and it made the job an absolute doddle, in fact, I wondered why i'd put it off for so long! getting the rubber boots off and new ones back on can be a pain, but more footery than anything. Watch out for the dowel hole in the gaitor and a corresponding dowel thing on the rack. .

 

I couldn't get the track rod off the end very easily and just ground it off rather than spend ages carefully taking something apart that was headed for the bin.

[fla 9]

Jamie? Could you post up a link as to which tool you bought? I need to change the track rod ends on mine too.

[science 0]

I changed the outer rod ends when the hubs were off the car. Not the right way to do it as you can't get good leverage and they were seized solid, took two massive stillsons wrenches to get them off. Better to split them from the locking nut first. I replaced them with stainless.

[fla 9]

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-4469-Track-Removal-Tool/dp/B00623EAHI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393175590&sr=8-1&keywords=track+rod+removal+tool

 

this one any good for track rod ends?

[VR6 Gar 10]

Too big, 35-45mm range. Our nut is 32mm.

I bought one of these. Will post up how I got on once done. Could take a while as it is weather dependant being a driveway job.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291061669736?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

[VR6 Gar 10]

Well all my tools and parts arrived quickly so did this today.

In a word, easy. Hardest bit was getting the second boot back on, first one took me about 20 second, second one took a few minutes. Space is tight so small hands help. If you have spade hands find a small handed friend to help you out.

 

Also make sure you have some big extension bars if you use a crow foot like myself.

I missed mine being delivered as I was at work but wanted to crack on with it anyway. Ended up using the 1/2" crow foot with 1/2"-3/8" adapter, 3x3/8" extension bars to 3/8"-1/2" adapter and onto my torque wrench :lol: Was a bit wobbly but did the trick.

 

Probably took me a max of 2 hours on a gravel drive, which included the time it took to cutting disk on a dremel through the old tie rod locking nuts so I could remove and re use the boots.

[jamiehamy 0]

fla, this is the one I bought. Worked a treat, just slide over the tie rod once the boot is off, twist round until it locks and then loosen with the ratchet. I thought it would be too big but did the job no problem.

 

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-4469-Track-Removal-Tool/dp/B00623EAHI/ref=sr_1_sc_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1393267091&sr=1-1-spell&keywords=tie+rodd+4469

[fla 9]

thanks chaps. I think my tierods are ok at present, just the ends that need replacing. Then again, they may also be seized on so i might end up changing the rods as well! I'll see how i get on with the crows foot Gareth suggests.

[VR6 Gar 10]

If the tie rods are ok it is dead easy to remove the seized bolt. I used a small cutting disk attachment on a dremel but a saw would do the same job. 1 slit through the nut and then it undid easily.

[fla 9]

great thanks. And i guess you count the number of turns to get the new tie rod end on in about the right position?

[sexybourbon 0]

Could anyone confirm what make to use for inner track rods as I'm sure I read a few weeks back there was two different racks , with two different makes on rod , I don't want to be buying the wrong ones as I won't be able to leave the car where the work is getting done and I want to be done in good time with no hassle

Car parts for less do one from trw and there 40 quid each , is that right or do I need a different make ? Any help would be great so I can get them order

[VR6 Gar 10]

TRW for UK cars.

 

i bought mine from AVS at £35 delivered for the pair, they are described as Meyle but came in a TRW box with Lucas in small writing, so maybe they are all part of the same company?

Either way they are a piece of p1ss to fit so even if they decide to wear out in a couple of years I can change them for more expensive ones easily enough.

http://www.vwspares.co.uk/corrado_steering.php

[sexybourbon 0]

Thanks gar , I'll get them ordered I wonder why car part for less are selling them so expensive , 40 quid each !! Thanks for that mate

[ChrisL 17]

Are both sides the same as I need to change the passenger side of mine.

[jamiehamy 0]

great thanks. And i guess you count the number of turns to get the new tie rod end on in about the right position?

 

In theory, but it never works that well, so take getting the tracking done into acout - you might want to hanf fire and do other bits at the same time.