DANG60 0 Posted May 7, 2014 Hey guys I realise this has been asked loads of times before but I'm in a bit of a pickle. I've been restoring the underside of the car. The car is currently on a spit and will be getting moved in a few months so really want to get this done whilst it's on the spit. The car has had all of the underseal stripped, rust treated and any holes welded. I then have primed the floor put around 5 coats of thinned down stone chip on and then 2 PAC paint over the top. The car has been like this a few years now. I I find myself driving down toads an thinking there's no way my corrado floor will stand up to all the pebble dashing from the roads with the poor state they seem to be in. I'm thinking either key the floor again and apply more stone chip only rather than thinning it for a smooth effect I'll put it in to give the rippled effect similar to the factory and then topcoat it. Alternatively I could get the vw underseal and put that back on but not sure if it's overpaintable then topcoat over the top. Or finally add more protection to the wheel arches and leave the floor pans as they are as most likely the damage comes from the wheels flicking stones up etc. Any of you guys have experience of what works? This is the second time I've done this as I first did all the floor with por15 with a view to painting over the top and wasn't impressed with the results. Ii feel that I prepped it well before tusing the por15 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DANG60 0 Posted May 7, 2014 Here is a pic to give you an idea if what it is like currently. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ChrisL 18 Posted May 7, 2014 That looks a top job you've done there. Why dont you put the original stone chip on that the cars came with, I'm sure you can still get it and its great stuff. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DANG60 0 Posted May 7, 2014 Thanks Chris,yeah I've been looking into that stuff. You read that many do's and dont's with what to use i just end up lost. I just need to make sure I make the right choice. Don't fancy stripping it off a third time lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goldie 2 Posted May 7, 2014 That looks a top job you've done there. Why dont you put the original stone chip on that the cars came with, I'm sure you can still get it and its great stuff. I enquired two weeks ago…denied..gutted.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
clumpy1 11 Posted May 7, 2014 I enquired two weeks ago…denied..gutted.. Reality?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
joebloggsVR69 0 Posted May 7, 2014 The factory stone chip is that rippled rubbery Schultz stuff: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3M-Car-Body-Schutz-Black-Underseal-08861-x-3-/180665439317 It's quite thick, several millimetres, so don't think stones in the road will go through it, they'll just bounce off. And it can be painted over. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goldie 2 Posted May 7, 2014 The factory stuff, part number D 003 500 isn't available anymore sadly… Is this 3m stuff a similar thing? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ChrisL 18 Posted May 7, 2014 I thought Kip bought some not long ago? Its great stuff and from cleaning the underneath of mine its still rubbery and kept my floors perfect Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DANG60 0 Posted May 7, 2014 Thanks guys, that 3 m stuff isn't over paintable Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
joebloggsVR69 0 Posted May 7, 2014 The factory stuff, part number D 003 500 isn't available anymore sadly… Is this 3m stuff a similar thing? My local bodyshop place said the 3M Schultz was the same stuff as factory, but maybe he's wrong? Got my underside Schultz'd and it's as thick & rubbery as the factory stone chip stuff, and painted EDIT - Hmm.. that ebay Schultz says it's not overpaintable... :scratch: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ChrisL 18 Posted May 7, 2014 When I've done Schultz before its like a black tar not rubbery. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted May 7, 2014 The VW stuff is the daddy but 3M and Wurth do similar... http://www.vwgroup-paintandbody.co.uk/elsaWin/LLF_general/en-GB/01_Original_Produkte/01_09_Unterbodenschutz/01_09_01_Langzeitunterbodenschutz.htm Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
efil4sbuD 0 Posted May 12, 2014 Isn't that stuff called Schutz, not Schultz? Schultz may have been the guy who applied it in the factory ,but Schutz is the product :-) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
joebloggsVR69 0 Posted May 12, 2014 Isn't that stuff called Schutz, not Schultz? Schultz may have been the guy who applied it in the factory ,but Schutz is the product :-) Yes, you're correct! My bad :lol: My bodyshop guy kept calling it Shultz and it's stuck with me.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted May 12, 2014 Isn't that stuff called Schutz, not Schultz? Schultz may have been the guy who applied it in the factory ,but Schutz is the product :-) hehe :-) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VR6 South 0 Posted May 12, 2014 Isn't that stuff called Schutz, not Schultz? Schultz may have been the guy who applied it in the factory ,but Schutz is the product :-) Didn't he write the Peanuts and Snoopy books? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hofmiester 10 Posted May 12, 2014 Anyone know of an actual product then for the rubberised coating? I'd like to buy some but can't find anything online aside from the NLA VW stuff :( Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goldie 2 Posted May 13, 2014 Same issue for me…Any ideas.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted May 13, 2014 I bought some Halfords stuff (about 2 years ago!) - i'll check which one it is and let you know. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bruny 0 Posted May 13, 2014 Dinitrol, Protect Super 447 is the light grey fast drying overpaintable elastic anti stone chip Dinitrol 4010 heat resistant transparent hard coat. Brilliant product and very helpful company. Highly recommended. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goldie 2 Posted May 14, 2014 Dinitrol, Protect Super 447 is the light grey fast drying overpaintable elastic anti stone chip Dinitrol 4010 heat resistant transparent hard coat. Brilliant product and very helpful company. Highly recommended. I contacted these guys today.. Very helpful, advised me to place order through ebay as they charge less postage. Have opted for a primer as well. The grey underseal is brush on, the black one is spray on, I've gone for the grey one and will report findings as and when (hopefully this weekend.. Ive got a lot of car bits planned but this is top of the list.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
paddy26 3 Posted May 14, 2014 Are you going to use seam sealer on the joints 1st before you apply the dinitrol? I'm not sure if it's needed. I never did it on mine. Dinitrol do a seam sealer aswell. \Paddy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goldie 2 Posted May 14, 2014 I only need to do a couple of local repairs rather than complete floor or large areas so haven't bothered.. How did you get on with it? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DANG60 0 Posted May 14, 2014 It seems it's an absolute minefield the amount of products that are available. The thing that holds me back putting new underseal on is the fact that my car was starting to see rust in areas where there was no damage to the underseal so the water must have crept in from elsewhere. I seem sealed all the floor joints but that was with the full floor stripped. Points you Guys might find of interest though are The front of the sills which is a well known area. Down in the corner of the rear wheel arch where the fuel tank filler neck goes. This is a tank out job though. I say bottom it's really the top it's because my car is upside down. Also at the bottom front of the rear wheel arches roughly where the rear beam pivot is. Another place which wasn't that bad bud could be if I'd left it was near the mounting points for the rear beam pivots. Because it's smooth where the mounting points bolt to but undersealed around so the water creeps under there. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites