Wayne2015 10 Posted March 16, 2015 If you want to do the ecu reset, info here... http://wiki.the-corrado.net/vr6_ecu_reset_procedure.html Thanks! It resets the lambda sensor?!!! Thats one of the things that stalls my car i think :( My lambda just been replaced too .. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Diesel Junior 0 Posted March 16, 2015 Cheers for the support, bud! I know - i had amazing help/advice and free give aways too - Cant thank everyone here and the forum enough for everything, and that i am sooo new here i am so touched by the genorosity here :) Wayne. Pretend you're me mate. ... you've sold your vr6 and you type in 'vr6 noise' in you tube to give yourself a fix. It's torture! !! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wayne2015 10 Posted March 16, 2015 wayne. Pretend you're me mate. ... You've sold your vr6 and you type in 'vr6 noise' in you tube to give yourself a fix. It's torture! !! nooooooooooooooooo! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wayne2015 10 Posted March 17, 2015 Guys I lost the white plastic disc behind the handle U just about see it in the pic here.. Can u see what part number it is from here? Above pic Also confirms door shut bolt to fix handle is a FILLISTER BOLT :) But when the pic says LEFT is that driver side or passenger? As the RIGHT BOLT is a left-hand-thread ... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ray1965 10 Posted March 17, 2015 Wayne. Agree with all the above comments, keep at it, like i said in a earler reply, keep the faith. Your not on your own. My car which is my daily has run fault free for 2 and a bit years, and the car has 89k on the clock, then this last 2 months i have had a array of problems like Radiator letting go, replaced with new one, then leaks from the thermo housing, car breaking down twice in an hour and not starting. Ignition switch breaking, car locking me out with keys in and engine running! windscreen wiper arm breaking when i needed the wipers. I just look at the car and say well it's worth it to fix it and then start it up and think yeh you cant beat that sound. Like i have said and the other guys on the forum keep the faith. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wayne2015 10 Posted March 17, 2015 Wayne. Agree with all the above comments, keep at it, like i said in a earler reply, keep the faith. Your not on your own. My car which is my daily has run fault free for 2 and a bit years, and the car has 89k on the clock, then this last 2 months i have had a array of problems like Radiator letting go, replaced with new one, then leaks from the thermo housing, car breaking down twice in an hour and not starting. Ignition switch breaking, car locking me out with keys in and engine running! windscreen wiper arm breaking when i needed the wipers. I just look at the car and say well it's worth it to fix it and then start it up and think yeh you cant beat that sound. Like i have said and the other guys on the forum keep the faith. Cheers Ray! Feels much better with so much support from u guys - thanks :) We will have to see, Ray. As much plans ref house move and maybe down to one car with no classic insurance. So just keeping the faith for now may only be a battle won.... But thanks all - much appreciated :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ray1965 10 Posted March 17, 2015 :thumbleft::thumbleft: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wayne2015 10 Posted March 17, 2015 Well Just double checked the garage vagcom... They had: 537 Lambda/Oxygen Sensor 533 Idle Speed I had last night: 537 513 Engine Speed sensor ERASED it then drove car and scanned again, got: 513 Engine Speed So not really worth going back to garage coz different fault code as i guess they will charge me again. So worth taking to a cheaper garage??? Today Approaching roundabout decided NOT to change down at gear 3. Got on round about, traffic slower I had go change down to 2 - IT STALLED ON THE ROUNDABOUT - ARRRGGHHHHHHH! :eek: :eek: I dont want to drive her again! :( :( :( :sad: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wayne2015 10 Posted March 17, 2015 Driving review after garage/service (but OLD brake fluid): Still NOT used to following: 1. Engine Lumpiness at idle 2. Heavy steering wheel at low speed But above just trivial compared to the overall driving experience :) 1. Gear changing more knotchy - after 20mins drive still knotchy - before silky smooth - before crunch in gear 1, not experienced it again...yet 2. Slight squeak from rear driver brake? When turning more right 3. Slight saueak from engine right when driving slowly? 4. MUCH more practical over uneven roads / speed bumps - as my coilovers height increased :) :) :) Oh I have noticed something when coming to a stop ... It dips below 500rpm ...and as i had my light on ... ...as it dips below 500rpm the dash lights dim and as the rev go back up to idle - the dash lights light up normal again (whereas if if stalls, it will dip below 500rpm, battery LED come on - then stalls). So any thoughts on dash light dimming when coming to a slowdown and in middle of changing down? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mk3highline 10 Posted March 17, 2015 What did the garage do with the idle control valve? Did they clean the throttle body? The dash light will dim as the revs drop that low How new is the battery? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wayne2015 10 Posted March 17, 2015 (edited) What did the garage do with the idle control valve? Did they clean the throttle body? The dash light will dim as the revs drop that low How new is the battery? No idea to any above, bud :( Good to know ref battery dims. As i charged/reconditioned battery for 48hrs when i got her back from garage, I think battery is ok - just wondering if powerful enough thats all ... I think I will take my car to my usual Jap specialist. If a VR6 specialist has done his bit - no harm in taking it to someone else. As I have planned to drive her over 2 weeks Easter to my parents in Bristol, I prefer to have her overhaul a 2nd time: 1. Fix fault code 513 2. Change brake fluid / bleed ABS pump / Master - anything else??? 3. Check brakes are working (ref rear calipers) - though the handbrake is working :) If STILL stalling continues ...i think its time to move on. Drive Honda to Bristol, sell Corrado after Easter ... As I read there is sooooo many possible things that can caused the stalling ... Edited March 17, 2015 by Wayne2015 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mk3highline 10 Posted March 17, 2015 You have come so far this is a minor issue I bet don't give up mate Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wayne2015 10 Posted March 17, 2015 You have come so far this is a minor issue I bet don't give up mate Minor mate - but DANGEROUS!!!! As a moving car on roundabout and it stalls :( :eek: U know Bradford driving, i WILL BE rear-ended at some point! :( :( :( Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sankysvr6 0 Posted March 17, 2015 Wayne, Was the engine running when you scanned the car for faults? as I am sure you will get the VSS error if you scan without the engine running. The stalling issue will various possible causes, as its going to be difficult just to say its this. The only way your going to rectify it is by eliminating possible causes one at a time. Its going to be difficult to sell the car, if it stalls. If it was me I would do the following. 1. Revert back to standard airbox, with the standard air filter (filter does not have to be genuine, and even a drilled air box will do) 2. Clean the MAF out, with some electrical cleaner (I think i have some) and Test car 3. If car still stalling, disconnect the MAF and Test car 4. Clean out the throttle body with carb cleaner. 5. Remove the FSE power boost valve and revert back to standard. Leave all other issues for now, and just tackle one at a time. As the saying goes 'Don't try and run before you can walk' One step at a time. Come down at the weekend with the car and I'll help you give it some TLC it deserves. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wayne2015 10 Posted March 17, 2015 Wayne, Was the engine running when you scanned the car for faults? as I am sure you will get the VSS error if you scan without the engine running. The stalling issue will various possible causes, as its going to be difficult just to say its this. The only way your going to rectify it is by eliminating possible causes one at a time. Its going to be difficult to sell the car, if it stalls. If it was me I would do the following. 1. Revert back to standard airbox, with the standard air filter (filter does not have to be genuine, and even a drilled air box will do) 2. Clean the MAF out, with some electrical cleaner (I think i have some) and Test car 3. If car still stalling, disconnect the MAF and Test car 4. Clean out the throttle body with carb cleaner. 5. Remove the FSE power boost valve and revert back to standard. Leave all other issues for now, and just tackle one at a time. As the saying goes 'Don't try and run before you can walk' One step at a time. Come down at the weekend with the car and I'll help you give it some TLC it deserves. Cheers Sanky I know what u saying ... It dose seem then the Honda will have to come out as daily car, and Corrado back in garage (my garage) again :( My driver door handle is literally dangling from door. But thanks to Andy (HairyArse) we have some new bolts on order! Some relief there! As now, ANYONE can take the door handle out and open the central locking - eeek! But yet again really really appreciate your offer of help - Sunday? :) Er, anyone got a stock airbox? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MZpog 10 Posted March 17, 2015 Don't you dare sell up or I'll be the only Raddo driver in Bingers and I'll have nobody to wave at, lol. My daily drive has been a pain some times with little stupid problems (such as stalling)but patience, lots of fixing,over a year of ownership and I'm still loving it (apart from the spoiler that still doesn't work). This morning got one of those fuzzy moments when the moors road was clear, the valver was revving and she ripped down the road. Admittedly I nearly lost her having beaten my corner to corner speed record, but didn't so all well. Whilst I may be loving the raddo, my better half hates the time/money I throw at running it, but she enjoyed driving it (I can't win, lol) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chuggs1 10 Posted March 17, 2015 I had rough start up and idling... Cleaned MAF and all was fine...so that's worth a try. Only cost about £3 for electrical contact cleaner and a couple of quid for the tool to unscrew the sensor Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hairyarse 10 Posted March 17, 2015 Wayne, hang-in there, it's most likely a simple and cheap fix that will sort the stalling issue. Yes, you have to find it, but don't sell up just yet! You could end up buying another car with more problems. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MZpog 10 Posted March 17, 2015 Wayne, hang-in there, it's most likely a simple and cheap fix that will sort the stalling issue. Yes, you have to find it, but don't sell up just yet! You could end up buying another car with more problems. Could end up? Come on that deffo should be a would, it being a Corrado. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
delfinis38 1 Posted March 17, 2015 Nothing to do with the stalling but what fuel are you putting in it.... It ideally should be super unleaded, it runs smoother on the expensive stuff. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hairyarse 10 Posted March 17, 2015 Could end up? Come on that deffo should be a would, it being a Corrado. Haha yes true!! lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
robrado974 1 Posted March 17, 2015 (edited) Sorry if I've missed it , but has the isv been cleaned and checked it's working properly ? . If not remove it , and clean it with carb cleaner . Also check the damper box at the back of the throttle body . Sometimes the foam is a bit sketchy and if bits come loose they will cause problems . Make sure the isv is completely dry before re fitting . Also check all vac hoses around the throttle body , it's around an hours work , if that . If all the hoses are removed you can check for splits and holes . Keep at it , compared to the problems some of us have had this is very minor . Edited March 17, 2015 by robrado974 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mk3highline 10 Posted March 17, 2015 Wise words above Wayne. If you do decide to go for another, I should have a nice Aqua blue one available in the next week or so. Price to you, exactly what it's cost me to get to where it is now. My time has been for free! I've written down every penny it's cost me, and that doesn't include the parts i used that were "in stock!" lol. I'm interested in this and I'm all excited I'm liking my mid life crisis lol Just need to lose my wife Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
coullstar 0 Posted March 17, 2015 I should know this but can the idle speed be raised on these? Could be a temporary measure to help against stalling whilst you replace everything. To be honest there seems a lot of stuff wrong with the car when you got it, stuff that is just down to lack of proper care and maintenance by previous owner as none of it is that bad. It just so happens you are having to fix it all at once that's the bad thing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim 1 Posted March 17, 2015 Does sound like it could be the classic idle stabilisation valve. Might be worth trying to pick up a known good second hand on - they can normally be found for something like £20. Hang in there. When the car is all sorted it'll be really worth it. Believe me I've had my share of pain with my Corrado (and indeed have some issues outstanding that have bought me close to throwing in the towel) but it's really worth just sticking at it as you will get on top of it all! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
