Wayne2015 10 Posted April 21, 2015 Black doesn't need taping, red wants removing ideally (unless you want to fit an amp) but to do this you'll need to remove the fuse (if it has one and hasn't already been removed). Cool Think will leave it in as less likely to create another problem if i start to remove things etc Is a plastic block terminal best to cap off the red cables that are taped into one? Cant think of anythingelse to cap it off?? :shrug: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MZpog 10 Posted April 21, 2015 Cool Think will leave it in as less likely to create another problem if i start to remove things etc Is a plastic block terminal best to cap off the red cables that are taped into one? Cant think of anythingelse to cap it off?? :shrug: They need to come out if your not running an amp. Shouldn't take long to do. Need to arrange for you to pop up to mine one night for me to sort and fit your headlight loom. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wayne2015 10 Posted April 21, 2015 They need to come out if your not running an amp. Shouldn't take long to do. Need to arrange for you to pop up to mine one night for me to sort and fit your headlight loom. Cool Thanks Stuart! :thumbleft: :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sankysvr6 0 Posted April 21, 2015 Remember the wires took off your battery they were for the amp, with melted fuse holders. So them wires should be all dead. But like MZPog says, it's best to remove all that crap if your not going to be running an amp. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wayne2015 10 Posted April 22, 2015 Remember the wires took off your battery they were for the amp, with melted fuse holders. So them wires should be all dead. But like MZPog says, it's best to remove all that crap if your not going to be running an amp. Oh yeah! :thumbleft: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wayne2015 10 Posted April 23, 2015 For headlight alignment... Ok I can find A (height adjustment) But For B (side adjustment) There is NOTHING in the B-hole (where my finger is)?!!! :eek: :shocked!: :( Well Think my lights aiming too high since i changed the bulbs Bit of research and DIY headlight alignment (i probably done it wrong - but hey its lowered :thumbleft:) :lol: Mark 25ft from wall on flat road Mark centre of each light when car is right close to wall (BLUE TAPE) Reverse to 25ft line BEFORE AFTER (turn WHITE knob behind headlight to adjust height) I have NO IDEA where horizontal adjustment is?!!! :shrug: :bonk: I think u meant to: 1. BLUE tape TOP of light at middle on wall 2. Then reverse and adjust height until light is STILL below the BLUE tape 3. And adjust horizontal until slant of light also meets BLUE tape Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wayne2015 10 Posted April 25, 2015 Well Car s starting to stall again :eek: :shocked!: :( :( :( So did a scan (with engine off) 533: idle air control reg 537: oxygen sensor control 525: O2 sensor - voltage low 513: engine speed sensor - signal malfunction Engine back on and... No faults :thumbleft: :) But thats becaused its not stall yet :shocked!: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wayne2015 10 Posted April 25, 2015 Checking a few things ... Wires everywhere :eek: Dash speaker not connected :eek: Rear speakers - what sockets are these? If no spade connectors - how do u connect speaker wires??? :shrug: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wayne2015 10 Posted April 28, 2015 Dangerous melted wires??? :eek: :shrug: Replaced with new switch for now ... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sean_Jaymo 0 Posted April 28, 2015 That's because the current for the lights runs from the battery, through the switch and then onto new lights, resulting in possible internal failures in the switch with age and dim lights. Get the headlight loom upgrade fitted. So much better! You had a mk2 headlight switch before incase you didn't know. That brown wire looks like it has melted away leaving bare wire remaining. Get it repaired or at the very least cover the wire in insulation tape, you run the risk of bad things happening if you leave that bare! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wayne2015 10 Posted April 28, 2015 That's because the current for the lights runs from the battery, through the switch and then onto new lights, resulting in possible internal failures in the switch with age and dim lights. Get the headlight loom upgrade fitted. So much better! You had a mk2 headlight switch before incase you didn't know. That brown wire looks like it has melted away leaving bare wire remaining. Get it repaired or at the very least cover the wire in insulation tape, you run the risk of bad things happening if you leave that bare! Mk2? Of which car? Cool! Thanks! :thumbleft: Insulation tape for now! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wayne2015 10 Posted April 28, 2015 Golf. Really?!!! Bloody previous owner(s)! :2gunfire::2gunfire::snipersmile: Completely melted all the way thru! Taping up... Any advice? Replace all the wires? How bigger job is it? And the more i delve into my car ... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sean_Jaymo 0 Posted April 28, 2015 Wiring is one of those things you really don't want to look into but really should. How my car never caught fire before I owned it is a miracle! You can get a single loom that runs between the fuse box and the switch. Easy enough to replace if a little daunting! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
delfinis38 1 Posted April 28, 2015 (edited) Ideally replace with a new loom... eBay should be your friend. From memory it's a short loom with plugs both ends, which you plug in. But bear in mind secondhand looms could be iffy too... Wayne... If you choose to change the loom... And can't find one at the moment I may have a spare secondhand one, which I bought just In case this ever happened to mine... I don't guarantee the conditions of the wires as it's out of an unknown car to me. But quite happy to let you have it subject to a replacment at some point this summer... Edited April 28, 2015 by delfinis38 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wayne2015 10 Posted April 28, 2015 Wiring is one of those things you really don't want to look into but really should. How my car never caught fire before I owned it is a miracle! You can get a single loom that runs between the fuse box and the switch. Easy enough to replace if a little daunting! Single loom? Is that just the brown wire or the whole thing (all wires) ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
delfinis38 1 Posted April 28, 2015 I quess he's talking about the whole thing complete orange block and wire, and from memory it runs in to to electrical blokes the other end. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wayne2015 10 Posted April 28, 2015 Ideally replace with a new loom... eBay should be your friend. From memory it's a short loom with plugs both ends, which you plug in. But bear in mind secondhand looms could be iffy too... Wayne... If you choose to change the loom... And can't find one at the moment I may have a spare secondhand one, which I bought just In case this ever happened to mine... I don't guarantee the conditions of the wires as it's out of an unknown car to me. But quite happy to let you have it subject to a replacment at some point this summer... Cheers bud! U keep it for emergencies - but much appreciated anyway :thumbleft: Can i just replace the brown wire? But i cant trace the other end of the wire from switch :eek: What else trim/panel do i need to remove that i havent already to trace to fusebox (driver floor fusebox or engine bay)??? If replace brown wire - wouldnt it melt again??? :eek: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wayne2015 10 Posted April 28, 2015 I quess he's talking about the whole thing complete orange block and wire, and from memory it runs in to to electrical blokes the other end. Cool ! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sean_Jaymo 0 Posted April 28, 2015 It won't melt if you have the upgrade headlight loom fitted. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wayne2015 10 Posted April 28, 2015 It won't melt if you have the upgrade headlight loom fitted. I see! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tigerfish 10 Posted April 28, 2015 Really?!!! Bloody previous owner(s)! :2gunfire::2gunfire::snipersmile: hmmmm, looking at that, looks like I have a mk2 golf switch in mine too :scratch: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sean_Jaymo 0 Posted April 28, 2015 Same switch, different front just as susceptible to catching fire when the internals break down with age if you have the standard wiring circuit. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tigerfish 10 Posted April 28, 2015 Same switch, different front just as susceptible to catching fire when the internals break down with age if you have the standard wiring circuit. I have an uprated loom so no worries there luckily. I can see why people replace them with the golf version, cheap as chips compared to the corrado version. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seanl82 23 Posted April 29, 2015 It runs straight from the switch down over the top of the fusebox iirc Wayne. It's not too difficult if your careful to replace the whole loom. JusJust trace the loom to the block on the fusebox (top right iirc). Slide the fuse block retaining bar across, pull out block and remove. Refitting is reverse of removal mate. Well worth doing judging by the state of that cable! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
