Wayne2015 10 Posted March 16, 2015 Next job - yank drive belt off from below And put it back on from below AND above Insert bolt to adjust width to ease on/off drive belt ... - replace gearbox oil One plug underneath to drain One on side to fill from a bottle pressure thing Drain barrel to catch fluid - replace PAS fluid Open PAS fluid bottle cap Just unattach lowest tube and drain as much Fill up (fluid is GREEN!) Then We started car and then turn steering wheel full lock and topped up ad necessary Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wayne2015 10 Posted March 16, 2015 (edited) Quick inspection... Car front missing a cover for tow eye? Missing a few of these from underneath Chris had a spare bracket for this .. Edited March 16, 2015 by Wayne2015 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wayne2015 10 Posted March 16, 2015 (edited) And the nightmare of all nightmares begins... I had a 3ft breaker bar Chris had a 2-3ft metal pipe No, we did NOT fall out and fought - lol :) With these massive leverage on the wheel nuts we could not get the damn nuts off ?!!!!!! EEEKKK! In the end, Chris next door neighbour s unit - came round with an IMPACT NUT jobbie??? He gave the nuts a few whack and yay!!! :) (Sorry no pic :() Nuts off And Chris said my locking bolts were wrong as my nuts were tapered, but the lock nuts were rounded?!!! EEK! Leave or spend MORE money??? Old discs Front pads were like NEW! Rear were shot and uneven wear (Left old rear, middle new rear, right old front) Old rears (driver/passenger side) Replace front disc/pad -open brake fluid bottle cap - remove caliper (but not completely) - remove carrier completely (with pads) - remove old discs - push caliper piston back - fit new disc/pad - refit carrier/calipers using new bolts (except one caliper bolt as new pads only came with one...) We were wondering if new pads only came with one new caliper bolt how to change pads WITHOUT removing the other caliper bolt??! Edited March 16, 2015 by Wayne2015 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wayne2015 10 Posted March 16, 2015 - rear bearings Remove old rear bearings (cap, pin, bearings) - fit new bearings ring? WHACK it in! Fit rear discs Insert bearings, pin, grease (wasnt included in kit :(), cap I tried to salvage rear disc ABS Ring - no chance :( Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wayne2015 10 Posted March 16, 2015 Nightmare 2.... We couldnt push back the rear caliper pistons ?!!! :( EEEEK! We pushed Whacked Small G-glamp GIANT G-glamp Frantic phone calls all round and we were told to use a Rewinding tool With being a Sunday and 5mins before Wilco shuts! Rushed out to buy one £25 Yay! But ... Left hand push? Right? Push and turn? ... ...it didnt work! We bled the bleed nipples too ... ARGGGGHHHHHH! Our saviour came to our rescue again! Next door neighbour ... Chris remove the calipers and asked next door ... Worktop vice did the job!!! :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wayne2015 10 Posted March 16, 2015 Late Cold Hungry Sleep P@&%'ed too - lol Rushed to fit rear brakes AND still need to bleed brakes now as we took the rear calipers off! Neighbour came to help :) Old fluid was black in my car and his new brake fluid DOT 4 was GREEN ... Then it sunk on me that my garage had not changed the brake fluid :( :( :( - GRRRR! Checked my receipt - and drain brake fluid wasnt on the garage receipt (just replaced Clutch Slave Cylinder and drain clutch fluid) ... So should i get all brake fluid change? And drain master, slave, clutch, ABS pump??? Home time... Chris top man still looked after me Took my car for a spin Went for spin together to ensure everything was ok :) THANKS Chris !!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
delfinis38 1 Posted March 16, 2015 (edited) Great stuff.... Sounds like chris did you proud you bought abs rings for the rear then.... With reference to rear calipers, winding back is made easier by compressing the abs compensator, I normally put a g clamp over it. It allows fluid to go back up the system. With the car off the ground there is no load on the rear wheels. Sounds like the vice sorted it. Break fluid should be a nice yellow colour... Changed every 2 or 3 years. Edited March 16, 2015 by delfinis38 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wayne2015 10 Posted March 16, 2015 Chris? Look what i found in my trouser pocket this morning??? Well Car drives fine - i not noticed any different yet since from garage or from Chris It didnt stall on day from garage :( But stalled a few times already :( :( :( I dont feel safe ... 1st gear cruncb from garage. Nog tested it yet from Chris. No leaks underneath Temps fine ... Roof leak i have taped where it leaks ... But a LOT more surface rust has appeared :( All around rear arches All along bottlm of driver door :( The future is NOT clear The future is more ££££££ :( and RUST! and STALLING and ... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VAG-hag 0 Posted March 16, 2015 In all my living years so far ...i never heard so much cursing and f-ing in one afternoon! Lol Yes we back now! Wayne the wiser - NEVER EVER going to change pads/discs again!!! Chris (Vag-Hag) will still as generous to help any forum member as ever - BUT just NOT "unlucky" Wayne again! LOL Chris! I will call u IRON MAN now! U are one awesome determined kind but storm trooper who NEVER give up in the face of total annilation! (Thanks too to a little help from your friend Ade :)) I can never thank u enough, ever! Great to have met and sweat together bud ;) If there is anything u need, let me know! Swearing round here is known as passion!! Glad to help Wayne was good to meet you too :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wayne2015 10 Posted March 16, 2015 Great stuff.... Sounds like chris did you proud you bought abs rings for the rear then.... With reference to rear calipers, winding back is made easier by compressing the abs compensator, I normally put a g clamp over it. It allows fluid to go back up the system. With the car off the ground there is no load on the rear wheels. Sounds like the vice sorted it. Break fluid should be a nice yellow colour... Changed every 2 or 3 years. Thanks Bud! Noted! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ray1965 10 Posted March 16, 2015 (edited) Chris (Vag-HaG), is a good lad will help out when you ask, i've tormented him a few times for advice (sorry Chris)can't buy that off the shelf. I have been reading this thread from the start Wayne, how much have you now spent on the car up to now? keep the faith. Edited March 16, 2015 by Ray1965 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
delfinis38 1 Posted March 16, 2015 Thanks Bud! Noted! I mean brake load compensator not abs compensator talking rubbish.... It's a square box on the pass side rear. Just in front of axle. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wayne2015 10 Posted March 16, 2015 Swearing round here is known as passion!! Glad to help Wayne was good to meet you too :D Massive thanks, Chris! :) Really really appreciated your help, bud! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VAG-hag 0 Posted March 16, 2015 Wayne.. You do need to change your brake fluid. No doubt. As for the nipple covers... well i did say keep em safe ;) Heres to some happier motoring now all being well. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wayne2015 10 Posted March 16, 2015 Er Guys? My driver door now wouldn't open :( Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wayne2015 10 Posted March 16, 2015 And if I get a new bolt - what if the bolt threaded hole is worn or knackered by that wood screw??? EEEK! :( :(( Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sean_Jaymo 0 Posted March 16, 2015 Crack the bleed nipple when you are retracting calipers. Saves potentially damaging seals elsewhere that are not used to fluid going in the opposite direction. No need to mess with compensator valves either :-) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sean_Jaymo 0 Posted March 16, 2015 If the thread is gone you need a new handle or to have the thread tapped and helicoiled. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seanl82 23 Posted March 16, 2015 Didn't you get the car from a trader Wayne? I'd be round there demanding they cough up toward repairs or fix them asap! It's really not going well for you is it mate. Makes me sad someone genuine like yourself is having to deal with all this, and regretting ever buying what CAN be such an enjoyable car to own. :( Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wayne2015 10 Posted March 16, 2015 Crack the bleed nipple when you are retracting calipers. Saves potentially damaging seals elsewhere that are not used to fluid going in the opposite direction. No need to mess with compensator valves either :-) OK! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wayne2015 10 Posted March 16, 2015 If the thread is gone you need a new handle or to have the thread tapped and helicoiled. Yes! That means I can buy ANY cheap bolts to fit after! I just bought one 7mm for my Prelude! :) Wait.....I would need to drill into that METAL handle??? No no no :( And that hole looks teeny too :( :( :( Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wayne2015 10 Posted March 16, 2015 Didn't you get the car from a trader Wayne? I'd be round there demanding they cough up toward repairs or fix them asap! It's really not going well for you is it mate. Makes me sad someone genuine like yourself is having to deal with all this, and regretting ever buying what CAN be such an enjoyable car to own. :( Sadly not Sean :( From private individual who was a member of VR6OC ....sold as seen. And as I thoroughly tested it at the time - there was no major issue that I spotted on the day..... ... Until it broke down on way home.. ...then stalled.. ...then. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chuggs1 10 Posted March 16, 2015 At least when you get it all done you can be confident it all works and be proud of what you've achieved Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wayne2015 10 Posted March 16, 2015 I am again now considering selling up 'earlier than planned' and cut my losses.. Even thinking about this cheap 1995 VR6 on eBay now on bid £900. Its done £200k but most importantly its had most major bits done (chain, brakes etc) and sad as I am its also an auto! Yay - less fun I know :( Buy that. Sell mine And worse is I lose £1k? On the auto if it breaks? As I don't know how much more £££ I will be pumping into mine (or what else will break)??? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1995-VOLKSWAGEN-CORRADO-KARMANN-GHIA-BLACK-/201304299401?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2edeabd789 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wayne2015 10 Posted March 16, 2015 At least when you get it all done you can be confident it all works and be proud of what you've achieved Not sure how far that is mate? Its main bits "chain, guides etc" not done for 123k! eeeeek! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
