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deamon90002004

setting up tracking?

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hey all, i want to get my tracking done on my 91 g60, but the garages i use keep wanting to adjust the passenger side track rod, i have a workshop manual and what i believe to be the bently manual, they both suggest keeping the passenger side locked to a certain length and then adjusting the drivers side, but every time i've had this done, the car still wants to wander to the left, even my mk2 golf 1.6 driver did this, is this normal?

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Take it to somebody with a Hunter or Breissbarth kit. I got mine done today on a Hunter system and it tracks perfectly straight. Obviously on cambered roads it will pull to the left though.

 

I've never followed the rule of only every adjusting one side, there are plenty of threads either side and so long as they are both the same length to start with (ie: when both track rods and ends are replaced they are wound on evenly) then the turn or two will make little difference to day to day driving.

 

The fixed length on the one side is to keep the rack central when adjustments are carried out.

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i took it kwik fit, and there was a lad who knew about old vws (which was good) who adjusted it first time, by making sure passanger side was right length and then adjusting drivers side, then steering wheel back in place, but need a tweak a few weeks later, so took it back for the free adjustment, and they kept saying "we can't do it, it keeps moving the passenger side" and then said it needs heating up to free the lock ring and rod end" and then gave up saying it can't be done

 

i went to take it to vw in tamworth, and they said audi down the road was the only local garage able to do it, but wanted £150 to check the camber too (which i found out at kwik fit was about -1.2) both sides but changed when tracking done

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Cant't see how that's a good way to do it. Surely the rack is now off-centre and you'll have different lock left to right.

 

I have always adjusted both TRE's with rack central and steering locked.

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Also, it's not uncommon from TRE's to need some heat to free-up and adjust if they haven't been touched for a while.

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i know it's not uncommon, but in the space of 20 days to seize?

 

if you look in a haynes of a mk2 golf it says lock passenger side straight and adjust the drivers side only, as it messes with the steering angles and geometry

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Sounds like they were throwing you a line tbh. If they managed it the first time, it wouldn't seize within a few weeks. They probably couldn't do it properly the first time but charged you for it regardless. Take it to a recommended place and tell them the factory settings. If you do a search, you'll get what it should be set to.

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We have full alignment facilities at our workshops and we regularly carry out complete wheel geometry adjustment on Corrado. All Corrados only have front wheel camber and toe adjustment capability, but we often have to re align the rear torsion beam after suspension work. Yes we often find that track rod ends are partially or fully seized, and this can be overcome with careful heat application. We use an inductor to heat components, we find it safer and more controllable than traditional oxy-acetylene. However, if a component is so seized that the heating process requires the component to be allowed to glow cherry red or brighter, then this v

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We have full alignment facilities at our workshops and we regularly carry out complete wheel geometry adjustment on Corrado. All Corrados only have front wheel camber and toe adjustment capability, but we often have to re align the rear torsion beam after suspension work. Yes we often find that track rod ends are partially or fully seized, and this can be overcome with careful heat application. We use an inductor to heat components, we find it safer and more controllable than traditional oxy-acetylene. However, if a component is so seized that the heating process requires the component to be allowed to glow cherry red or brighter, then this v

 

shame you look like your based in west sussex, im up in derbyshire, so need to find someone local who has that sort of knowledge

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Component must be renewed. If an item is unseized successfully then it would be most unlikely for it to become so after such a short time. Indeed good engineering sense would have the joint suitably lubricated to prevent such. As for adjust of the toe setting, both sides of the rack require adjustment with the steering wheel locked in position with the correct tooling. Alignment carried out correctly should not require re-attending to within such a short period of time. This is of course given that all component faults have been rectified and the vehicle is not travelling over excessively rough surfaces on a daily basis. We would be happy to look after your alignment requirements, if of course our location in West Sussex is convenient. Happy to offer advise in any event. Regards, John JMR Ltd

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sadly you are abit too far away, but i am in the process of swapping out ball joints and suspension, might even do a complete track rod swap too as the car had stood since 2005 till mid 2013 in a garage (which caused things to get blocked and blew up my charger)

 

i've already put new wishbone powerflex bushes in

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John JMR Ltd

 

I just wished you guys were closer.

 

Kwik fit have all the right gear, but most of them have no idea and how to use the tools.

 

The one near me has the hunter 4 wheel alignment machine, and all they seem do is tracking on it. I asked one of the guys about doing the camber on it, and how you can freeze the settings and lift the car to make the adjustments and he just seemed lost. Then goes on to say he just loosen the bolts on the bottom of the struts whilst its on the ramp and adjusts it that way.

 

I just walked away

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Vw has made a tool for sorting out camber while on the deck, goes between the body wheel or strut and you just slowly wind it to where you want it and lock the strut back up

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Vw has made a tool for sorting out camber while on the deck, goes between the body wheel or strut and you just slowly wind it to where you want it and lock the strut back up

 

They do and this tool has been around for many years now. We use this tool for setting camber on the Corrado and similar. We have modified another of these tools for use on modified cars with much lowered suspension and wider wheels. Works great, but does need the camber to be ideally set positive before installation, by doing this there is more space to position the tool and the vehicle weight works in your favour when setting the camber.

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Or indeed save your tooling budget from an exceptional hit, and get yourself down to JMR where we can do the job for you while you enjoy a day on the sunny southern Sussex coast :)

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Oh well you know where we are and you are most welcome, as indeed are all

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I'll be giving you a call in the next week or so to book mine in I think John. About to fit my Bilstein B12s so I'll need you to work your magic afterwards! :thumbleft:

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Will look forward to hearing from you. A small tip to save you a little money. When you fit your kit make sure your front top mounts are also renewed, and free off your track rod ends and lube the threads before knipping them up. If you can't free off any parts, don't worry we can do this for you, but if you can it will make the whole process a formality without any classic car dramas :)

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Thanks for the tip! I've got new top mounts front & back, and I've actually got new track rod ends that I was going to wait to fit, but I'll stick them on at the same time if I can. Cheers John!

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