Abs

[Chuggs1 10]

Hi

 

My ABS light intermittently comes on and stays on - it doesn't always do this and if I pump the brake pedal a couple of times before starting the engine it often does not come on.

 

I have just had an alarm fault sorted out (all sorted now) and when I went to pick up the car I was told they had diagnosed an Outlet Valve" problem which relates to the ABS light being on. The auto electrician who had done this had left for the day so I could not get the actual fault code.

 

Can anyone help with this? Is this a new pump and ecu? If so where can I get one and how much are they - what sort of fitting job is it (how many hours)

 

Thanks

[Chuggs1 10]

Bump

[Jim Bowen 1]

Pump isn't too hard to get at, I've not much idea about the fault but outlet valve sounds like its part of the pump. It would involve disconnecting all the brake pipes from the pump (should be easy as long as the unions undo and aren't seized etc)

 

ECU is easy to swap, it sits inside the passenger foot well and is just a block connector.

 

I have just removed the complete ABS system from mine so do have spare pump and ECU, but ABS was never be connected up on mine since i bought it. It was unplugged and someone had cut the bulb out of the dash light unit. So couldn't say what condition my bits are in.

[Chuggs1 10]

Thanks Jim - sounds suspiciously like your old pump may have been faulty too - did you upgrade to a different abs system - was ita major piece of work - will see if I can find a reconditioned unit and replace it - hopefully it will solve the issue - it does seem to be intermittent and ii think the abs feels like it works maybe its juts the ecu???

[Jim Bowen 1]

Was never sure what was wrong with my ABS, but everything did look old and cruddy when removed.

 

I fitted the Teves20 system, does away with the rear brake compensator on the beam and the rears are individually controlled instead. It was a lot of work (people say its plug and play which makes it sound easy), you have to put wiring in from the pump under bonnet through the bulkhead and then behind the dash and onto the fusebox, then the wires going to the rear end. Plus you need to remake the copper/steel pipes.

 

I only did it as engine was out, dash was out and rear beam off the car so made sense to do it.

[Roger Chatfield 0]

Personally I'd try a fluid change, it should be changed every few years anyway but is often missed, the fluid can absorb water and this can lead to the abs valves sticking.

 

It's quite easy and cheap to do and is worth a try.

 

Rog.

[Chuggs1 10]

Yeah think that sort of job is well out of my capability. Lol

[Chuggs1 10]

Personally I'd try a fluid change, it should be changed every few years anyway but is often missed, the fluid can absorb water and this can lead to the abs valves sticking.

 

It's quite easy and cheap to do and is worth a try.

 

Rog.

Hi Roger.... Fluid has all been done when had the the front and rear brakes upgraded. Shame would have been nice if that was the fix.

[seanl82 23]

Go to a quiet road with the system working, and give it a good stomp on the brakes a few times to activate the ABS. Apparently the valves can become gummed up after a while, and a good stomping on them gets them moving. Worth a try, and its free! The pumps aren't particularly difficult to replace, and the unions should come off relatively easily if you use a proper brake nut spanner. (11mm and 1 x 13mm). The push fit pipes from the reservoir on the other hand can be a bit of a pig, and bear in mind you'll have to bleed it all up afterward! There is a place that reconditions them (BBA RAMMAN?) for around £150 iirc, and you get a lifetime warrenty too. I'd certainly suggest clearing the code with VCDS after slamming the brakes on a few times, then seeing what happens. If it comes on again, then look into diagnosing properly though.

[Chuggs1 10]

Thanks Sean. Will give it a go at the weekend. Worth trying the free ways first.

[Dox 22]

I've had inlet / outlet valve faults since I bought the car, tried another ecu, dash lamp, bled the system with fresh fluid, scanned reset codes etc last week I changed the pump, it's too soon to claim a fix but the light does now go out on a cold start.

 

Things of note, dash light stays illuminated on a cold start, but would stay off for a while if restarted when the engine bay was hot. Removing and refitting the relays behind the glovebox kept the light off for a few days at a time as would disconnecting the battery for a while. A flat battery jumpstart scenario would always leave the light on until some charge was back in the battery and a restart which sort of points towards voltage drop not helping the situation.

 

If you turn the ignition on you can see the dash light flicker as the system self tests, if the light doesn't flicker the light will stay illuminated without fail.

 

I don't think BBA Reman recon the pumps anymore as the parts are obsolete.

 

I need to try the car for a few weeks to see if the pump swap has cured mine, my car only passed its mot last Thursday and doesn't get driven much tbh

[Chuggs1 10]

Hope your fix works. Let me know after a while if it's still working. Next mot not till November so I have some time to trace and solve.

[Dox 22]

Hope your fix works. Let me know after a while if it's still working. Next mot not till November so I have some time to trace and solve.

 

The ABS issue has been better than its ever been since I bought the car 4.5 years ago, but the light did reappear once tonight on the move (wheel sensor maybe - I've not had time to scan the car), it does go out when started providing the battery is good (I've had battery issues again and the ABS light because of it), the battery has now been replaced and I've done 100 miles today stop starting 10+ times.

[Chuggs1 10]

Ok after the light going out and being out for a while it is coming on again but again only intermittently. Just read the codes and have the following. 00793 brake pedal sensor. 00276 abs rear outlet sensor and 00532 supply voltage... Think the last one is from when changed my battery so will just clear that And see how it goes.... What's the state of play with the other ones is pedal sensor easy to change myself.... Is the outlet sensor... On the wheel or is this the pump? Are there some clearing jobs i can try before buying stuff? Thanks

[seanl82 23]

Clear them all first mate, then go from there. Pedal position sensor is below the brake fluid reservoir and easy to change, its just getting hold of one that could be a problem. There was someone who refurbished them but can't remember who. I think its just dry solder joints anyway so if you feel you can split it yourself, it should be an easy fix. Have a search, it was mentioned on here about a year ago iirc. Usually if its pump, it'll say outlet or inlet valve. Have a look on the rosstech website for exact codes though as it may give you a better indication. Check the plugs under the rear seat bases are pushed home properly though first, I thought I had an intermittent problem as mine would illuminate when going over harsh bumps which is all it turned out to be in the end!!!

[Chuggs1 10]

Thanks for that comprehensive reply. Sounds like a plan. Will give it all a go over the next couple of months. I like the idea that it may be the connections to the pump as opposed to the pump itself so certainly worth a try.... Thanks again and will clear fault codes tomorrow and Go from there

[Chuggs1 10]

Will get onto this as my Sunday job! Along with getting that underbonnet foam fitted

[Dox 22]

After changing my pump assy I've had no codes for inlet / outlet valves, I have had pedal sensor and a wheel sensor faults intermittently.

 

When you fix the main faults the intermittent faults then appear, my pedal sensor seems to be stuck in with some sort of double sided sticky foam tape, I don't fancy snapping it off in the servo so its a job for over its winter sorn period.

 

I have my old pump and plan to open it up and check for dry solder joints inside

[seanl82 23]

The pedal position sensor is just held in by a ring clip. It needed a good tug to get it out, but wasn't difficult to get out. Mine was actually the connector in the end, but I bought a brand new PPS and fitted that, so I think I still have my original one that was tested good. I cant remember if it sold or not before I left with a few other bits, but if I still have it and you're in no great rush, give me a nudge around Christmas time and I'll see if I can dig it out.

[Chuggs1 10]

The pedal position sensor is just held in by a ring clip. It needed a good tug to get it out, but wasn't difficult to get out. Mine was actually the connector in the end, but I bought a brand new PPS and fitted that, so I think I still have my original one that was tested good. I cant remember if it sold or not before I left with a few other bits, but if I still have it and you're in no great rush, give me a nudge around Christmas time and I'll see if I can dig it out.

 

Thanks Sean - that would be great and no not in a rush - will indeed give you a nudge in December - thanks again

[Dox 22]

The pedal position sensor is just held in by a ring clip.

 

 

Not on mine, you can see grey foam tape where the clip should be

 

 

 

My reconditioned sensor

 

[KipVR 1]

I think it was DG autotech that recondition the position sensors. Also, on the pump manifold the little filters get all clogged up and stop the unit working properly giving false valve fault codes.