abv79 10 Posted September 4, 2015 Hi guys/girls. So I've been running in my freshly rebuilt vr6 engine :-) not a nice experience if I'm honest! First of all before starting the engine I removed a plug and turned the motor over for 10-15 seconds to built up oil pressure . Then replaced the plug. Did a final oil and coolant check then proceeded to start the engine , Took a while for the fuel to get into the rail and injectors. Popped and farted a few times then burst into life... I ran the engine for 5 minutes at 1200rpm to get some temp into it. Checked for leaks. Oil/coolant.. After 5 mins decided to increase the revs to 2000rpm and held it there until the fans kicked in. As soon as they did I turned off the motor and let cool. Dropped the oil and filter and replaced . I also cleaned the magnetic sump plug which was covered in fine particles then put it back in the sump. Following day I stared the car and warmed for 5 minutes checking for leaks again. Then took the revs this time to 3000rpm and again until the fans kicked in. Oil filter changed again . Day 3. Went for a drive going up and down the gears with plenty of engine breaking . Short pulls from 3000-6000 Then letting the car come down to 3000rpm. Repeated this 10-15 times Went home dropped the oil and changed filter .. For the first 500 miles of normal driving ( not constant) the engine never exceeded 3000rpm. Then every 100 miles after that I increased the revs by 500 rpm.. The engine now has 1100 miles on it and is running sweet.. I'm still on 10/40 mineral oil and Want to know when's best to switch to semi synthetic?? Thanks for stopping by :-) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dox 22 Posted September 4, 2015 The reason for using mineral oil is so the piston rings wear into there bores for best possible seal. Did the engine builder not advise you? I'd have said 2 changes of mineral oil (one as you've already done, another at 1500 miles) then semi synth at 5000 miles, others will know better. What's the engine spec? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
abv79 10 Posted September 4, 2015 @dox. Thanks for getting back to me.. I changed the oil purely for peace of mind .plus I had a slight leak from the upper timing chain cover now sorted. The engine is a abv block machines to 3.0l rebuilt head (standard) will be getting 262 cams Forged bottom end . rods/Pistons and knive edged crank. With very light flywheel . I'm planning on a 750 mile road trip next week to get some decent miles on it . It's running well. Doesn't smoke nore uses any oil. I took it for a 100 mile drive on Monday and was getting 37.9 mpg... My engine builder did give me a running in procedure but I've missed placed it. So I've just been reading what others have been doing on the net.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Bowen 1 Posted September 4, 2015 I didn't know this about the mineral oil, i need to run in my new engine and almost filled it up with semi synthetic oil, Should i go and buy some mineral? Any particular brand etc? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
abv79 10 Posted September 4, 2015 Hi Jim .. The cheapest you can find .. I'm using 10/40w comma mineral oil... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dox 22 Posted September 4, 2015 @dox. Thanks for getting back to me.. I changed the oil purely for peace of mind .plus I had a slight leak from the upper timing chain cover now sorted. The engine is a abv block machines to 3.0l rebuilt head (standard) will be getting 262 cams Forged bottom end . rods/Pistons and knive edged crank. With very light flywheel . I'm planning on a 750 mile road trip next week to get some decent miles on it . It's running well. Doesn't smoke nore uses any oil. I took it for a 100 mile drive on Monday and was getting 37.9 mpg... My engine builder did give me a running in procedure but I've missed placed it. So I've just been reading what others have been doing on the net.... I have a new set of 3L Wiseco pistons, so its good to know you engine seems OK so far :) I'm no expert re the running in process, but if it was mine I'd try to keep the clean as possible. The engine remanufacturers machinery won't be as accurate as the multi million pound VW CNC item, so its more important IMO to run it in compared to say a brand new VW supplied car Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
abv79 10 Posted September 4, 2015 @Dox. I used JE pistons and binned the rings and used wiseco ones.. I sent the block away with the set of Pistons so there was no confusion on size.. I've managed to save 13 kg off the crank with it being knive edged. a set of pulleys and a light flywheel.. Revs really well but it doesn't like slow round town driving... I havent chained the engine but I haven't been driving like a granny either... I do give it a bit in every gear but let it cool down for 15 mins after... Max oil temp I've seen so far is 104. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dox 22 Posted September 4, 2015 @Dox. I used JE pistons and binned the rings and used wiseco ones.. I sent the block away with the set of Pistons so there was no confusion on size.. I've managed to save 13 kg off the crank with it being knive edged. a set of pulleys and a light flywheel.. Revs really well but it doesn't like slow round town driving... I havent chained the engine but I haven't been driving like a granny either... I do give it a bit in every gear but let it cool down for 15 mins after... Max oil temp I've seen so far is 104. I have a lightened flywheel (6KG from memory - its been machined by Hotgolf on CGTi), I'm not sure what I'll do with the crank and I've heard bad things in general re the light weight pulleys, so standards ones for me I think Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dr_mat 0 Posted September 4, 2015 I'm afraid I don't believe you got 37.9 mpg .. :) Do you have any other modifications? If you've changed the injectors the MPG will be way out. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
abv79 10 Posted September 4, 2015 @dr mat.. I'm only telling you what the Mfa says :-) Yes the injectors have been changed. Polished and ported TB. 6 branch mani. Wavetrax LSD. Stainless cone filter. All sensors have been changed and running 3.0 software. New Bosch maf. New coil. On the run out on Monday the car never went over 70mph.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dox 22 Posted September 4, 2015 Recon standard or uprated injectors? Its sounds like the kind of car I'm aiming for, eventually...... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
abv79 10 Posted September 4, 2015 @Dox. Rebuilt and flow tested OEM Bosch ones... If your not gonna use your car for fast road use I wouldn't go for a knife edge crank.. Sounds mental!!! Would love to turbo it but would need full syncro running gear.. Defo reccomend wavetrac LSD.. Will be fitting 262 cams once the bottom end is fully ran in... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dox 22 Posted September 4, 2015 @Dox. Rebuilt and flow tested OEM Bosch ones... If your not gonna use your car for fast road use I wouldn't go for a knife edge crank.. Sounds mental!!! Would love to turbo it but would need full syncro running gear.. Defo reccomend wavetrac LSD.. Will be fitting 262 cams once the bottom end is fully ran in... Who machined the block for you? Kev Bacon has mentioned they need to be honed in a certain way to prevent oil usage. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
abv79 10 Posted September 4, 2015 @Dox. The engine builder was Andy at highflowheads in Scotland . He built the engine and they block was sent to a machine shop on his estate Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dox 22 Posted September 4, 2015 Tony Ack on here has some used Schrick 268 cams for sale in the classifieds Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
abv79 10 Posted September 4, 2015 @Dox. I'm just changing the coolant as we speak. 50/50 coolant to water so changing for full undiluted coolant . I've noticed the sump gasket is leaking slightly . These rubber sump gaskets are sh--e so will need to remove the sump and apply some sealant. Would be taking the sump off anyway to inspect for any unwanted sealant . Don't want it blocking my oil pick up .. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
abv79 10 Posted September 4, 2015 @Dox. I was going to use the 262 cams cause I've been told you can run OEM springs . I won't be changing the cams for a while anyway. Thanks for letting me know thou :-) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dox 22 Posted September 4, 2015 @Dox. I'm just changing the coolant as we speak. 50/50 coolant to water so changing for full undiluted coolant . I've noticed the sump gasket is leaking slightly . These rubber sump gaskets are sh--e so will need to remove the sump and apply some sealant. Would be taking the sump off anyway to inspect for any unwanted sealant . Don't want it blocking my oil pick up .. Check the label on the coolant as some will cause overheating if used neat. If you're using the old sump put a straight edge across the bolt holes to make sure the holes aren't pulled into the gasket allowing the oil to seep where the clamping force is reduced between the bolts Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dox 22 Posted September 4, 2015 http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?91837-Schrick-VGI-manifold-and-goodies I wasn't aware you needed different springs with these cams? Nice to have yes, but not compulsory? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
abv79 10 Posted September 4, 2015 @Dox. It's coolant from halfords it does say on the bottle it's already diluted. Just want to make sure I don't crack my block over winter.. It's good for -34.. The sump is brand new and so is the gasket . I've nipped them all up didn't want to over do them. I will pressure wash the sump tomorrow so I can tell if it seeps again.. I will have a look at that thanks :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
abv79 10 Posted September 4, 2015 @Dox are stealth still trading ? I emailed them last week about a drive in drive out turbo kit but no reply ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Bowen 1 Posted September 4, 2015 I have a new set of 3L Wiseco pistons, so its good to know you engine seems OK so far :) I'm no expert re the running in process, but if it was mine I'd try to keep the clean as possible. The engine remanufacturers machinery won't be as accurate as the multi million pound VW CNC item, so its more important IMO to run it in compared to say a brand new VW supplied car Vince mentioned this with my block, said its not as important as i had a new VW block and pistons instead of getting original block rebored. But i still think i'll do some running in, or at least taking it easy for a while. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim 1 Posted September 4, 2015 @Dox are stealth still trading ? I emailed them last week about a drive in drive out turbo kit but no reply ? I'm sure they will get back to you, but you're better off picking up the phone honestly. I'm also curious to know why you're choosing not to use VW coolant, and using some stuff from Halfords instead? The VW G13++ (or whatever we're up to these days) works extremely well. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dox 22 Posted September 4, 2015 @Dox are stealth still trading ? I emailed them last week about a drive in drive out turbo kit but no reply ? They've done a turbo conversion on a forum members car this year, I suspect an email reply given all the options available for the subject would be long winded, it would be better to phone them? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
abv79 10 Posted September 4, 2015 @jim Bowen .. I've not given the engine a hard time to be honest. I do give it full throttle bursts but it's never seen redline. And never stay in full throttle Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
