sunroof adjustment

[surfer.vr6 0]

anyone knows how to adjust the sunroof on a l plate corrado?

mine has got a mark on top of the sunroof, it looks like it is scraping against something in the roof when you open it

[Mike Edwards 0]

That - unfortunately - is unlikely to be an adjustment problem.

 

Are these scratches on the passenger side?

 

If so, you need to buy and fit a "Repair Kit for Water Guide Plate" part no. 1h0 898 019.

 

Costs about £35 +VAT.

[kangaroo 0]

Hmm.. When my roof is fully closed it sits tilted ever-so-slightly forward. The rear sits a fraction high, and the front dips just a little bit inside the surround. Is this normal? Or can this be adjusted?

[Mike Edwards 0]

This can be adjusted - although it should alwaus sit 1mm high at the back and 1mm low at the front.

 

Put the roof on full tilt, put you hands against the rear edge of the apertue in the lining of the sunroof and push backwards.

 

The whole interior trim of the sunroof will slide backwards.

 

Move it all the way back then close the sunroof.

 

There are 4 spline-drive bolts that hold the sunroof panel onto the mechanism - slacken these off to adjust the position of the sunroof panel to the rest of the roof.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Mike, the water guide repair kit, can that be fitted without stripping the whole thing again?

 

I've replaced the sheared cable guides already and am getting the same gouging issues. As you said a while ago, there is vertical play when pushing on the roof when tilted. I take it this play is why the roof panel is catching on the roof support straps?

 

Are the chrome rocker arms available seperately as the plastic roller wheels in mine have flat spots on them?

 

K

[Mike Edwards 0]

Nope - roof out again.

 

The rocker arms can be replaced seperately without taking the roof out, but it's their mounting in the track (the water guide plate) that ultimately needs replacing as it caused the wear.

 

To check this, with the roof tilted push down on the pivot for the rocker arms. If there is appreciable movement, start planning when you're taking the roof apart.

 

For some reason the driver's side of the roof will work fine with quite a lot of wear in this component, but the passenger side won't.

 

As always, lube the whole mechanism regularly and you won't have a problem.

[benson 0]

In case you need a second opinion Kev, I've now done exactly as Mike said. I replaced both cables and the lhs water guide plate. The total cost was £96 from the local Colbournes VW, of which £16.50 plus VAT was for the water guide plate - it comes with the lifter arm on it - GPC were not much cheaper due to a lower German VW discount code (8 instead of 6 in the UK) and parts arrived at the Stealers next morning ready for a weekend fit.

 

Following scratches in my roof lacquer, I initially bought just the little lifters and left it at that - but roof went bang a week later anyway Water guide plate definitely the culprit - loads of play in the track and the 'bang!' was one of the four sliding pads on it snapping off. These are coated in nylon or similar and this had worn down to allow enough play between pad and track for it to all jam up when sliding the roof back.

 

Anyway, laid the roof frame out on the living room floor and took my time. Having carefully reassembled and applied copious amounts of white grease, Robert is my Mother's brother! 8) The only naff thing was five minutes after I removed the sunroof frame the heavens opened! Luckily had some bubblewrap of all things to cover the hole in the roof!

 

Cheers,

George.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Cheers for that. I've already done the cable guides (the chrome castings with helicoil cables attached) so will have to get round to doing the water thingys at some point. Can I really be arsed to take the subframe out again is the question?!!

 

One thing I did notice was the new cable guides were stiff as hell inside the runners, despite tonnes of grease. There was no obvious reason why. Did you find the same thing?

 

K

[benson 0]

Yeah same for me - and the reason why as far, as I could see, is that when new the moulded nylon "bridge" between the slidey pads on the guides has a slight curvature in it - I imagine that the purpose of this design is to take up any play and give a little pre-tension between pad and track as the components wear - although after 10 years or so the curvature had been beaten into submission on my old bits, hence allowing play and jamming up of the roof.

 

The new water guide plate you need also has a similar arrangement between two pads down one side. In the same way as above, the nylon type stuff moulded over the metal where it slides in the frame bridges across two of the pads in a gentle arc. This is why it's initially difficult to slide the new parts into the track. Used tons of white grease to assist and all seems fine in operation now - touch wood!

 

As always, would upload a photo, but damn McLaren firewalls prevent me from doing so!

 

Got two new problems now - central locking/total closure no longer working on the key in driver's side door and ignition switch on the way out.

Oh, and still not got round to fitting those steering column bearings to try and fix low speed "knock" effect.

 

On the other hand, VW-Porsche wheel adaptors have finally showed up (designed them, not off the shelf) and they fit perfectly. :-P Waiting for cap-heads and helicoil thread inserts to show up and then just need my own set of 7" Design 90s! Tyres already here - 215-40-R16 Yokos. 8)

 

George.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Yeah I noticed the shaping of the nylon pads and I assumed (at the time) the motor wouldn't be able to overcome the excessive resistance, but it clearly does if yours is sliding OK. I used the manual winder crank on mine as it wouldn't slide but after Mike told me how to reset the motor position etc, it sprang into life.

 

Did you do that on yours too? I didn't and when the doors were locked, the roof tilted, LOL!

 

Is your entire full closure buggered or just the sunroof aspect of it? To reset the roof closure I had to remove the motor, connect it up, lock the doors, unlock the doors, refit motor and then it all worked swimmingly.

 

Not sure if that's related to your problem, but might be worth a go.

 

One other thing I'm going to do is use stronger springs on the wind deflector because the standard ones are too weak, meaning motorway cruising with the roof back is very noisy. The deflector folds down at something silly like 50 mph, which is pants. MK2 deflectors resisted the pressure until at least 100mph, meaning a much quieter cruise.

 

With the steering, all my knocking was down to the rack itself but changing the column bearings will help.

 

K

[benson 0]

Try holding the key over in the passenger door, to make sure the closure is working at all. Could be the locking pulse needs extending.

 

My MK3 Golf still shuts the windows and roof, even though the key doesn't work them from the drivers door.

Gavin

 

Hi chaps,

 

Fresh from fixing my sunroof, my attention now turns to the central locking - I have the following two problems:

1) Old problem - didn't know there might be a solution...

With sunroof back and both windows open, the total closure doesn't close all three completely on the alarm fob. Sunroof stops short. Is this to do with the 'locking pulse' time being too short? How can it be extended? This would be a massive help!

My alarm is the original vw dealer fit thing ('Quantum'?) - fob is black, rectangular, 1.25" x 2" and has two square buttons, left one does the locking/unlocking and right one is a 'panic' button.

 

2) More recent problem is that the driver's side locking/window closing function has stopped working.

If I lock the car with the alarm fob, central locking works as normal, plus alarm armed etc. If I use the key, I no longer have central locking - only the driver's door lock pin goes up/down, plus holding key in 'locking' position no longer activates total closure function to finish off the job when the locking pulse pulls up short.

 

At the moment I have to lock the car twice with the fob to achieve total closure! Cack!

 

All help greatfully received!

 

George.

 

 

Morning Kev,

 

Unfortunately it's the whole closure function - I actually posted the problems in another thread the other day - see above. Seems that something in the driver's door is at fault. Sunroof definitely all clocked up correctly - followed the Bentley picture to line up the arms and lifters and operated the motor with it disconnected from the roof to get it in the right position before reattaching everything. All works great on the switch - just the sunroof and window closure which won't work on the key in the driver's side, plus it all stops short of full closure when alarming it with everything open.

 

George.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Sounds like the left hand (viewed from outside the car) microswitch in the handle is at fault. Either the wire has corroded and fallen off or the switch is dead. A new handle should sort it.

[benson 0]

I'll whip the handle out at the weekend then and take a sneeky peek. Does the interior door card need to be off to remove the door handle, or is it just a case of removing the left hand threaded screw and the door latch? I'm losing count of the number of times that's been off!

 

Had a look on ETKA the other day - I wondered if the problem might also be the large door actuator unit? Dunno how much these cost do you?

 

Any ideas on the closure locking pulse and how I might re-educate the ECU to close everything properly before switching off?

 

G.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Unfortunately both the door card and plastic membrane need to come off in order to replace a handle :? But you can inspect it by doing as you say, providing there is enough slack on the wire.

 

I would guess the large door actuator unit is the pump itself, which lives in the boot. As the CL works off the alarm, it's unlikely to be that. They're about £100 for a new motor.

 

Have your tried the full closure from the passenger door? It works on both sides.....if it does, then your driver's handle is definitely dead.

 

I don't know about resetting alarm FC timeouts but the standard FC is a 'press and hold' job anyway, there is no timing.

[benson 0]

Ok, will get back to you when I've tried the passenger side FC.

 

Still would love to know how to get the alarm controlled FC to work properly - i.e. shut all the closures in one hit!

 

On the old thread, "SoundsAlarming" seemed to know his stuff, but no idea if he's familiar with ye olde VW alarm. Also, it was Gavin (H100VW) who mentioned the locking pulse needing extending - maybe they might know what I need to do? Is there a way to alert them to this thread other than PM?

 

Cheers,

G.