Fuse 19 keeps blowing

[Rado87 10]

Fuse no 19 keeps blowing meaning the fans don't run when the engine gets hot but when I turn it off they kick full chat! Any ideas anyone to give me a direction to head in!!

[dragon green 5]

Have you checked the fuse on the fan controller ?

You didn't say what model you have

[Rado87 10]

Oh yea, it's a 1993 vr6. Which fuse is that mate? The big one on the left of the fan controller as you look at it?

[Hisnibs 10]

Same! Just done a random search and this popped up from 3 days ago. Spooky. I've ordered a fan module from ze germans as it's getting a worrying 110c. Stage 2 seems to be nadgered n'all, hopefully this is linked.

[dragon green 5]

Oh yea, it's a 1993 vr6. Which fuse is that mate? The big one on the left of the fan controller as you look at it?

 

Yes

[Rado87 10]

The fuse on the FCM is fine. I have a problem where the car cuts out when slowing down, only when hot though, so wondering if coolant temp sensor is buggered? I think it's the black one on the stat housing. I also have a blue 2 pin and a yellow 4 pin. I was thinking of wiring a switch into the dash as a back up. What part number was your FCM hisnibs and how much was it? Mine 1HO 919 506.

[Hisnibs 10]

I went for http://www.tav-autoverwertung.de/shop/New-Radiator-fan-control-unit-VW-357-919-506-SHO-89-8718-000 .

 

Couldn't find one on ebay that matched the plugs and I wanted a new one as 2nd hand electronics make me twitchy. I've replaced all 3 sensors in the housing (plus the housing as it was p1ss1ng coolant) and a low temp thermostat. Got a rad switch coming as well as I forgot all about it. I know it's a little bit of a shotgun approach but it's not like it's for a customer and new gubbins makes me 'appy.

[Rado87 10]

That tends to be my attitude to be honest. I changed the housing and stat, seals etc when I did the engine rebuild but never bothered with the sensors. The cars going in for MOT next week so maybe I should just replace all 3. I don't want it over heating on the MOT bay! Do you think a dodgy sensor could cause the fuse to blow?

[Hisnibs 10]

Personally it think it's unlikely as all they do is bridge anyway, so water ingress/shorting would most likely just cause running issues. Sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong. Best I can do is keep ya posted on how the module swap goes as it should land Thursday.

[Rado87 10]

Yea, thought it was a long shot! If you could update me/the post that would be sound. I may take the battery out and washer bottle as some of the fan wiring runs under them.

[Rado87 10]

Any joy with that fan control module hisnibs?

[Hisnibs 10]

To be honest, I've no farking idea. The only thing I know is that the plugs fit and it's made in Hungary and not Germany. It hasn't popped a fuse yet though.

I'm kinda in a foul mood with the farker, been through 3 sets of coolant sensors (each with different running characteristics), and now it's stalling like a kunt despite a new isv. I'd love to know how quickly the fuel trims adjust after replacing sensors, maybe that's it. Who am I kidding.

Soz for the rant.

[Rado87 10]

Oh dear, sounds like a right mare! I've replaced the fuse and so far so good but the sod has failed it's MOT today! Emissions were sky high so payed a bloke to read the codes and inlet manifold temp sensors fooked! I just want to drive the bloody thing, after 3 years in the workshop!! O well, it'll get there. Best of luck with yours buddy.

[Hisnibs 10]

Oh bloody hell, that really does suck arse. Not much of a job though you'd think, but must admit that's the one thing I haven't changed so wouldn't know. 3 years! Know what you mean, I've spent thousands on the best mods and overhauled most sensors/bushes etc and still can't enjoy it. Gonna have to splash out on vagcom me thinks. Best of luck fella.

[fendervg 33]

VCDS and a diagnostic cable were the best money I ever spent on a mod! My stalling at junctions when returning to idle was solved by a clean of the throttle body and a lube of the accelerator cable and checking of the TPS stop adjustment by the way.

 

The ECU temp sender is the blue one - all it does is tell the ECU when the engine is warm enough to switch from rich to normal fuel mode - nothing else. It is also used for starting, but doesn't make a difference really. The gauge and fans run off the other sender, secondary controller for aircon etc on other cars off the third. They all function the same way so you can actually swap the cabling around to test them. Never use second hand ones - they aren't that dear and don't need to be replaced that often.

 

The ECU will do a soft reset when the battery is disconnected for more than 10 minutes or so - changing a sender does not require the full reset procedure, it will simply relearn the stored values. it doesn't have its own battery or anything. Just my experience with this kind of thing. You can end up spending a lot of money on unneeded parts if you don't do proper diagnostics.

[Rado87 10]

Useful info fenderverg, thanks. With regards to changing the coolant temp sensor, is that the black one, the one in the rad or are all of them classed as coolant temp sensors?

[fendervg 33]

There are:

ECU coolant temp for fuel cut-over - BLUE - stat housing

Inlet Manifold Air Temp Sender - goes to ECU also

Radiator temp sender - BLACK - for the fan controller module

Yellow/Black/Brown - in stat housing, these are for the dash coolant temp gauge, air con and secondary fan controller

 

The "definitive VR6 cooling thread" that's a sticky on here has all the info you need to check out your system is working properly as designed.

 

Use the search, Luke. ;)

[culshaw 1]

There are:

ECU coolant temp for fuel cut-over - BLUE - stat housing

Inlet Manifold Air Temp Sender - goes to ECU also

Radiator temp sender - BLACK - for the fan controller module

Yellow/Black/Brown - in stat housing, these are for the dash coolant temp gauge, air con and secondary fan controller

 

The "definitive VR6 cooling thread" that's a sticky on here has all the info you need to check out your system is working properly as designed.

 

Use the search, Luke. ;)

 

I've got a spare brown sensor if you need a brown one, I bought a brown by mistake.

[Hisnibs 10]

Wow, some seriously insightful and well written info on this 'ere thread. Kudus.

2 quick Qs,

1) There's this loose earth coloured wire flopping about near the thermostat housing, where's the spade?!

2) Do you have a link for the VCDS and the cable? Gonna stop relying on pot luck.

Ta

[fendervg 33]

http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/

 

Expensive but worth it and can be used on all other modern VAG group cars as well. What you can do on a VR is limited to the ECU and ABS controller and is mostly reading values and fault codes and clearing them.

 

Depending on the year of your particular car you may need either a 2x2 adapter cable or not as well as the standard USB cable. Check under the gear lever gaiter trim.

 

Would need to see a picture of the earth wire to compare. Any loose earth is not good and will lead to problems somewhere or other.

[fendervg 33]

I probably have few different sensors knocking about as well. Will take a look.

[seanl82 23]

There is a brown single core wire with a spade that doesn't connect to anything in and amongst the starter motor wiring. I can't remember for the life of me what its for, but its not connected on UK models. Nothing to worry about though.

[Hisnibs 10]

[ATTACH]84191[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]84192[/ATTACH]

 

That mystery lead lives amongst the wiring in the top plug as we look. Cannae find a spade haha.

Oh and I thought it'd post me plug on there to be absolutely sure - 94vr... Excuse the dremel savagery.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[culshaw 1]

'incesticide'

[Hisnibs 10]

That happens to be my sister's favourite :norty::lol: