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carrots

battery tray sorry i didnt pay someone

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ive started to try and remove my battery tray to weld a new one in.i am finding it hard to fit the drill in to get to the side spot welds.the engine is still in place the pictures ive looked at people have removed the engine.its one of them jobs I wish I hadn't started.any tips on certain tools that work beter or how to get it out .cheers

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Hello Carrots,

 

I've done this job on mine already,

I can WhatsApp you over some photos of mine if needed.

I bought and fitted / welded in a new MK2 Golf battery tray, but I had to fabricate it a bit to make it fit correctly.

Basically I didn't need the whole tray just the main centre part.

 

The items I used were,

1) cordless drill

2) spot weld drill bit

3) air compressor so could use air tools,

mainly my die grinder.

4) hammer

5) chisel

6) zink or Galvanised paint

7) rust eater to paint all over the repair,

as it acts as a good under coat.

8) wax oil

9) Seam Sealer

 

The left front side bumper support bracket,

is welded to the underside of the original battery tray, so you have to drill out those spot welds also, on the MK2 battery tray you have to extend the back support arm of that bumper bracket, the front arm fits perfectly.

 

Unless you've managed to obtain new old stock of the original Corrado battery tray, which will fit perfectly then.

Like I say it's only on the MK2 tray that affects the rear support arm of the front left side bumper bracket.

 

Oh yeah before I forget make sure you remove your headlight, as it'll make it a lot easier to see and to gain access, plus also my horns were rusted up badly, and so was the bracket which I cleaned up.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Si

Edited by vw rule

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I've got the front end stripped off.problem I am having is I cant get to the spot welds on side of chassis leg.cheers

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If there’s no room for the drill how are you going to find room to weld a new one on?

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What part of the battery tray is rotten,

as mine was pitted / rusted in the centre and close to the battery clamp, which is why I fabricated the MK2 Golf one to fit.

 

I drilled small holes close to one another using a 5mm drill bit,

going along the old battery tray parallel to the inner chassis edge, but left the spot welds on the inner edge alone, and left a lip from the original tray which was good clean metal luckily, then drilled out the spot welds on the chassis leg on the outer edge, which is basically going down the centre of the battery tray.

I used a hammer and medium sized chisel to cut through all the small drill holes I had made,

then cleaned everything up with my die grinder.

 

If your old battery tray is ok on the inner edge, i.e facing the gearbox then you don't really need to drill those spot welds out,

but if it is heavily rusted then maybe you do.

 

You could possibly drill small holes close to one another like what I did, to make it a lot easier to cut through with a grinder or hammer & chisel, but you'll need to be really close to the inner chassis leg, only if your battery tray is badly rusted there, then you could grind the battery tray lip / edge that is left away until it's thin enough to chisel off,

but you'll need to be careful as you don't want to grind into the chassis leg itself.

 

 

Si

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But he’s going need room for the welding torch to weld a new one in?

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On 5/20/2019 at 1:41 PM, vw rule said:

Hello Carrots,

 

I've done this job on mine already,

I can WhatsApp you over some photos of mine if needed.

I bought and fitted / welded in a new MK2 Golf battery tray, but I had to fabricate it a bit to make it fit correctly.

Basically I didn't need the whole tray just the main centre part.

 

The items I used were,

1) cordless drill

2) spot weld drill bit

3) air compressor so could use air tools,

mainly my die grinder.

4) hammer

5) chisel

6) zink or Galvanised paint

7) rust eater to paint all over the repair,

as it acts as a good under coat.

😎 wax oil

9) Seam Sealer

 

The left front side bumper support bracket,

is welded to the underside of the original battery tray, so you have to drill out those spot welds also, on the MK2 battery tray you have to extend the back support arm of that bumper bracket, the front arm fits perfectly.

 

Unless you've managed to obtain new old stock of the original Corrado battery tray, which will fit perfectly then.

Like I say it's only on the MK2 tray that affects the rear support arm of the front left side bumper bracket.

 

Oh yeah before I forget make sure you remove your headlight, as it'll make it a lot easier to see and to gain access, plus also my horns were rusted up badly, and so was the bracket which I cleaned up.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Si

Photos of a new MK2 Golf battery tray that I cut down and welded in a few years ago now, think this was back in October of 2017.

Si 

 

20171014_141618.jpg

20171014_141627.jpg

20171014_141650.jpg

20171029_142626.jpg

20171014_141803.jpg

Edited by vw rule

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I spot welded along the chassis leg as it was originally, plus the two legs of the bumber bracket, then seam welded along the back / front and left side of battery tray, then seam and spot welded along the right side and back right where it curves around strut panel.

First photo is when I had just finished welding. The second photo is I'd just sprayed some zink primer to protect it, as I was going to grind down the welding the next day as it was starting to get dark.

Si 

20171029_185955.jpg

20171029_192656.jpg

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The next day ground down the welding to make it look tidy and treated with Wenko Rust killer, then painted a few coats of zink 182 primer, then some red oxide, plus added some seam sealer to prevent any moisture getting to welding.

Si 

IMG-20180415-WA0007.jpg

Edited by vw rule

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From memory the bumber bracket legs that are welded to under side of battery tray, one of them you need to cut the top part off, what I mean is you'll need to extend it roughly by about 10mm, due to the Corrado battery try being very slightly different here, compared to the MK2 Golf, a part from that it's identical to the Corrado. I've marked the two bumber bracket legs with red and yellow circles.

The yellow circle one is fine, but the red circle one at the back is the one from memory you'll need to make longer if any of you tackle this job in the future.

Hope this helps

Si 

20171029_142626~2.jpg

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