fendervg 33 Posted October 22, 2019 I have a faulty front left sensor on the VR6 and have ordered ATE replacements (will do both sides at the same time) - just wanted to check the correct procedure and any gotchas. I'm assuming the sequence will be something like: - jack up and support car - wheel off - loosen and remove calliper - remove pads - remove discs - disconnect cable to sensor - apply plenty of penetrating oil, wait - hammer out old sensor - clean everything - fit new sensor - assembly is the reverse etc. as the old saying goes - clear ABS fault codes Does the hub need to come off or the ABS sensor ring? I'm hoping not - as it's a fauly sensor it obviously doesn't matter if it gets destroyed in the process of being removed. Any advice/experiences much appreciated. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
swiftkid 1 Posted October 22, 2019 Sounds like the Haynes way of doing it but before you do all that, spray a load of WD40 on the sensor, leave it for a few days then jack the car up up take the allen key bolt out and using a pair of mole grips try spin it round and loosen it. It can be done by just taking the wheel off, if it doesn't work no harm done and continue as per above. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fendervg 33 Posted October 22, 2019 Ah ok - will give that a try. Even just read in the archives on here about it being done with the wheel on but on full lock. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fendervg 33 Posted October 26, 2019 Ok - that front sensor is well stuck on there. Got the bolt holding it off no problem, plenty of penetrating oil, but it will really only rotate in place and wiggle a little it - not movement out. Going to leave it to soak overnight and try again in the morning. Even if I take the disk off, I believe the ABS ring is attached to the hub, so I won't be able to hammer it out from the front. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
vw rule 19 Posted October 27, 2019 Ah ok - will give that a try. Even just read in the archives on here about it being done with the wheel on but on full lock. Hello mate, worst case you'll have to remove the hub assembly from suspension strut, and put into vice to drill out the old ABS sensor, I suppose you could try and drill it out in situ still attached to strut, but there isn't a lot of room there on full lock. You could remove the hub assembly and take it to your local trusted garage, and get them to apply some heat gently to that area to remove the old sensor. Or you could try using an old medium sized flat ended screw driver or chisel, and hammer off the front end of sensor, then see if you can get a punch or screw driver, and hammer/push the old sensor out backwards. Keep using WD40 or what ever penetrating fluid you use, and hopefully it'll come out, use vice grips/locking pliers to clamp on base of sensor, as they are great for removing stubborn parts. Also hammer around the area where the ABS sensor is, as it'll help to shock it lose doesn't always work but can on seized items like this. If still no joy then like I say you might want to drill it out, you might have to remove the hub assembly if it's too tight to drill out in situ. Hope this helps Si Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
paddy26 3 Posted October 27, 2019 Try put a vicegrip on it, putting a screwdriver/nail between the vicegrip and the hub to create a fulcrum and then hitting the vicegrip with a hammer, hitting it towards the hub. The shock from hitting it should help get it out a bit and you can get a large screwdriver /prybar behind it once you get it out a bit. If you tape the screwdriver/nail to the vicegrip it will free up a hand and make it easier. Hope that makes sense. \Paddy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fendervg 33 Posted October 27, 2019 This is fun - not. I can see why the newer sensors have a plastic body instead of the metal one. Typical Corrado job - if we had a Haynes, it would say two spanners and a couple of hours - may take up to 3 days! Instead of spanners it should just have #*&!! symbols, oh, and ££$$$€€€ as well. ;) I've taken off the brakes, carriers, disc and splash guard - and have the sensor in several piece, with the metal body still firmly lodged in there - next for some heat and plenty of brute force. Really don't want to take the hub off if I can avoid it as I'm not up for that at home. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fendervg 33 Posted October 27, 2019 Finally it came out (in many pieces) - with some gentle persuasion from a lump hammer and a ball-joint removal tool! Cleaned out the hole and had to very lightly sand the outside of the new sensor housing, and then tapped it in - no ABS light from cold (which is what was happening), so that's a good start. Now to refit all the bits and move on to the other side. I was lucky with most of the bolts and nuts - the lower calliper carrier bolt was very tough to remove, and one of the splash guard ones (8mm) needed a quick nip with a an Irwis bolt remover to help it along, but the ABS sensor one was easy enough - so to anyone else doing this I'd say make sure you have some bolt removers and plenty of penetrating oil to hand. Also found that brake calliper banjo hose bolt was only hand tight and leaking very slightly - not sure if it was disturbed during all the work, but will need to give that side a quick bleed as well. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Keyo 47 Posted October 27, 2019 Congratulations ! Was it a aftermarket ABS sensor mate ? I had a aftermarket crank sensor and it was a sod to get out, put a new OE VW to replace it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fendervg 33 Posted October 27, 2019 Congratulations ! Was it a aftermarket ABS sensor mate ? I had a aftermarket crank sensor and it was a sod to get out, put a new OE VW to replace it. Don't think it was an after-market on e- it's pretty well mangled now, but looks like a VAG part # on the casing. I remember reading on here that all the originals had a metal sensor housing, and judging by how well it was welded in there, I'd say it was 20+ years old. The replacement ATE one I have (who were the OEM supplier for these) has a plastic housing - I guess cheaper to make, and plastics technology has moved along a lot since the late eighties. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Keyo 47 Posted October 27, 2019 I imagine you have given the housing hole a bit of fine sanding. ATE is a good brand for sure. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites