colinstubbs 0 Posted November 23, 2021 There definitely used to be a 'how too' on dismantling, cleaning & repair of early electric window and mirror switches many moons ago, I've looked but can't find anything for the later switches. Can anyone point me in the right direction please? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
g0ldf1ng3r 15 Posted November 23, 2021 1 hour ago, colinstubbs said: There definitely used to be a 'how too' on dismantling, cleaning & repair of early electric window and mirror switches many moons ago, I've looked but can't find anything for the later switches. Can anyone point me in the right direction please? ive not seen one for the late switches, only the early ive got a printed copy of the early & it managed to fix my drivers side last year - it should be in the wiki IIRC Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
g0ldf1ng3r 15 Posted November 23, 2021 1 hour ago, colinstubbs said: There definitely used to be a 'how too' on dismantling, cleaning & repair of early electric window and mirror switches many moons ago, I've looked but can't find anything for the later switches. Can anyone point me in the right direction please? https://wiki.the-corrado.net/electric_mirror_repair.html there you go m8 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
colinstubbs 0 Posted November 28, 2021 Cheers, I did this to my early switches but changed to a late interior some years ago. I'm having drivers window issues so looking at options. Was working after I changed the regulator, until I put the doorcards back on Not even getting a relay click now. The idea of buying a switch off ebay to fault find for £55-70 doesn't appeal! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cressa 44 Posted November 28, 2021 Definitely worth getting the door card off again. I will have a look and see if I have a spare switch which I could send you to try Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cressa 44 Posted November 28, 2021 Unless you are good with a multimeter in checking for voltage at the switch connecor 1st and linking across to see if that makes something click/work Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dox 23 Posted November 28, 2021 The window motors only have 2 connections, you simply reverse polarity for up / down. I made up test leads years ago with crock clips from an old battery charger, wires with an in-line fuse and female spade connectors on the other end. I use them to test motors, fans, bulbs etc Id use the above to test the motor, then check the plug and switch connections for corrosion / breakage etc Id check the wiring between the shell and the door inside the trunking as I’ve have it break there in several VAG cars I’ve owned - some sheared completely, others broken inside the insulation, so looks ok, but if you pull on the wire the insulation stretches. It may be worth mentioning your location as someone local may be able to loan you a switch to try? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
g0ldf1ng3r 15 Posted November 29, 2021 On 11/28/2021 at 8:55 AM, Cressa said: Definitely worth getting the door card off again. I will have a look and see if I have a spare switch which I could send you to try if you dont have one cressa i know i have new drivers & passenger early window switches i can send one you can use to test if cressa doesnt Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cressa 44 Posted November 29, 2021 What a great forum where people offer help. So, early switches from g0ldf1ng3r or a late one from me that I found. Although I would definitely try what Dox has suggested. And popping the switch apart to clean the contacts isnt as tricky as you think. Or send it me and I will do it. If a late switch, the annoying metal spring clips are available from another member that contacted me on here. Not cheap but you can't get them anywhere else Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
colinstubbs 0 Posted November 29, 2021 On 11/28/2021 at 8:57 AM, Cressa said: Unless you are good with a multimeter in checking for voltage at the switch connecor 1st and linking across to see if that makes something click/work Yeah happy to mess about with multimeter and jump links, although I need the doorcard off anyhow cos it sounds like the yellow tip of the regulator frame is tapping on the door 🙄🙄 1 hour ago, Cressa said: popping the switch apart to clean the contacts isnt as tricky as you think. Or send it me and I will do it. If a late switch, the annoying metal spring clips are available from another member that contacted me on here. Not cheap but you can't get them anywhere else I thought there was some potentially tricky issue with the late switches 😉 Do the clips tend to break or what? Thanks for all the input peeps. I'll have a bash at shorting the plug and getting the motor moving. I still have the old motor so I could take that apart and try and revamp that if necessary. May well take Cressa up on the switch offer if that ends up being the only fix....I'd really like to mend what I have though!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cressa 44 Posted November 29, 2021 There are little metal spring clips that hold the switch securely in the door. They dont effect it's working just its fit. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted November 29, 2021 (edited) if you've lost the clip, just run some electrical tape around the switch to increase the interference of the fit Hasan Edited November 29, 2021 by fla Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
colinstubbs 0 Posted December 5, 2021 (edited) Ahh those bits, got you 👍 Good here so far, it's rainy and I have tap issues here at the mo... Oh and I drive it for 40mins yesterday, stopped for fish n chips then had to get my partner to come out with a jump pack to start it..... Deffo some issue there, though no battery light 😒🙄🙄 Edited December 5, 2021 by colinstubbs Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
colinstubbs 0 Posted August 20, 2022 Well it took a while to get top of my list again, broken solder joint where I'd slaved in the late interior switches... So I probably needlessly replaced the regulator mech, good job it was spare and not bought especially ... ALWAYS fault diagnose... don't assume 🙄🙄🙄 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites