How do I... check timing on VR6?

[Robbo149 0]

Hi all,

 

I'm going to be getting into the 'guts' of my VR soon to replace the cam sensor trigger wheel (as a result of a lengthy process of ellimination :roll: ). I'm feeling a bit daring, as I've now done quite a bit of work on it myself (yes, I am feeling quite pleased with myself), & feel I'm now up to something a bit more adventurous 8) (not to mention saving myself a small fortune :D ). Anyway, while I'm in there I'd like to check the timing, so I'm basically after an idiots guide as to how to do it if anyone can oblige.

 

Cheers,

Robbo

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Ooh Mr Adventurous! LOL!

 

There's nothing you can check on the electrical side as the ECU governs that, but you can check the mechanical timing of the cams by lifing the rocker cover and seeing if the two cam slots are dead parallel with the head when at TDC, gearbox end.

 

To be honest though, if the cam timing was a tooth out, you'd feel it.

 

I'm still puzzled by your "clip on" cam trigger wheel. Mine is literally a protuded lump of metal on the rear cam which provides the 'air gap' for the CPS.

 

Did you manage to feed the CPS with an alternative power source in the end?

 

Good luck and keep us posted.

 

K

[Robbo149 0]

Cheers Kev,

 

Yeah, it was the mechanical timing I was meaning, just thought I'd give it a check while I was in there. I'm getting serious popping on the over run & general sluggishness, but I seem to remember it was like that when I first got it (when it was the actual cam sensor), so I don't know how much of it's down to that. I may also have some fuel filter / fuel pump probs too :roll: ... one thing at a time, eh!

 

How do I find TDC (piston #1, I assume?) at the gearbox end?, is the flywheel marked & visible through the 'hole'?

 

I'm really getting into this diy lark, bought myself a proper set of tools & everything! :wink: before long I'll be wishing I'd tackled my head swap & chains myself :wink:

 

The CPS thing has been a bit of a saga, I've had 3 new sensors, had the wiring checked by a reputable auto electrician & I've also run new pos & neg feeds to the sensor (& tested them). I ran a new neg straight from the battery & the pos from the aux coolant pupm as you suggested Kev. The ECU feed wire has also checked out ok. So I'm left with the trigger wheel (which is definately a plazzy thing attched via the cam sprocket bolt, I can see & feel it through the hole). Having had a quick broddle around in there, there doesn't seem to be any magnetism in it! (the new one I've got is really strong).

 

Cheers,

Robbo

[Roger Blassberg 0]

The popping and banging on the over-run may be caused by a split flexible bellows in the downpipe. This could upset the lambda probe, and ultimately the cat, with all that that entails. A new downpipe isn't desperately expensive, but is a bit of a bar steward to fit.

 

Best wishes

 

RB

[Kevin Bacon 5]

The popping and banging on the over-run may be caused by a split flexible bellows in the downpipe. This could upset the lambda probe, and ultimately the cat, with all that that entails. A new downpipe isn't desperately expensive, but is a bit of a bar steward to fit.

 

Best wishes

 

RB

 

Interesting..... my exhaust sounds blowy at the moment and it's not coming from the pipework or manifold gaskets, so could be the front pipe flexi-joints.... good call. I'll get Vince to look at it when it's in on the 20th.

 

Cheers

Kev

[dr_mat 0]

A new down-pipe is £198+VAT from VW, IIRC.