Rear brakes

[Fairzy 0]

Any thoughts on rear brake disk/pad combinations...

 

Thought it's about time to sort my brakes out and while the fronts will be treated to either 312mm disks etc or 288mm golf disks will the rears be ok with ECP standard disks and pads.... will an upgrade be as noticable as the fronts?

 

Are there any other parts required other than disks and pads?

 

Thanks

[Kevin Bacon 5]

At the rear, use MK4 calipers, new VW discs and bearings and 98 MK3 GTI pads. Or MK4 pads shaved 1mm.

 

This improves the pedal feel and reduces travel. Goodridge hoses all round helps too, including the two subframe hoses.

 

On a slight incline, I can lock the car solid with 1 click on the handbrake. I needed 3 or 4 with the old brakes to achieve the same, so they work well.

[Fairzy 0]

What parts would I need? (bearings?)

 

What kinda cost am I looking at?

 

Is it all DIY work?

 

Thanks for the help.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

I paid £55 each for my brand new MK4 calipers from stealth, £25 for the required Goodridge conversion hoses, about £60 for the discs and bearings, £15 for pads. The discs and bearings are all standard Corrado stuff from the dealer.

 

Yep it's all DIY, depending on how confident you feel about bleeding brake calipers. The mechanical stuff is child's play.

 

K

[Fairzy 0]

Thanks for your help... I think for the time I might just replace whats there with stock - finances :( .

 

Obviously I need new disks and pads, but are there any other parts needed?

 

Ta

[dr_mat 0]

£55 each for genuine non-refurbed rear calipers is a bargain! They're usually nearer £120 each!

I had new refurbed Lucas ones fitted to mine a while back, Mk3 style. They were £60 each. (And have been ok for 18 months... So far...)

[dinkus 10]

I have just done a set of rear calipers, disks and pads on my C and the costs were...

 

Mk 4 calipers and Mk2->Mk4 Goodridge adapter hoses were £200 delivered from C&R - http://www.candrenterprises.co.uk

 

VAG steel which was £40ish the pair

Pagid FR pads (original Corrado ones, but I'd see if they do the aforementioned Mk3 GTI ones) which were £30 the set from GSF.

 

Good luck, the Mk4 calipers transform the handbrake operation, that's for sure. The Pagid FR pads work really well with the VAG disks too, so it's a worthwhile mod. Also, as the Mk4 calipers are alloy, they won't corrode up and die like the standard C ones.

[Joe M 0]

Am I the only person with mk4 calipers that still has to lift the handbrake pretty high. :cry:

It works fine, just a lot of travel and no apparent slack in the cables.

[Supercharged 2]

£55 each for genuine non-refurbed rear calipers is a bargain! They're usually nearer £120 each!

 

I think there only about £85 from VAG but C&R do them at that price with the conversion hoses and they don't want the old ones back as exchange anymore as everyone wants the alloy ones... I picked mine up from them at Inters for £55 inc.

 

Am I the only person with mk4 calipers that still has to lift the handbrake pretty high.

It works fine, just a lot of travel and no apparent slack in the cables.

 

You need to be fairly carful setting them up, you actually need the winding tool even if you have all new kit to ensure the piston is as close to the pads as posible and still be able to move the wheel freely, this will provide a better handbrake and a much better/sharper pedal feel.

[sambo 0]

£55 each for genuine non-refurbed rear calipers is a bargain! They're usually nearer £120 each!

 

I think there only about £85 from VAG but C&R do them at that price with the conversion hoses and they don't want the old ones back as exchange anymore as everyone wants the alloy ones... I picked mine up from them at Inters for £55 inc.

 

Am I the only person with mk4 calipers that still has to lift the handbrake pretty high.

It works fine, just a lot of travel and no apparent slack in the cables.

 

You need to be fairly carful setting them up, you actually need the winding tool even if you have all new kit to ensure the piston is as close to the pads as posible and still be able to move the wheel freely, this will provide a better handbrake and a much better/sharper pedal feel.[/quote:1464a]But want the pads wear affect the pedal feel? :roll:

[dinkus 10]

But want the pads wear affect the pedal feel? :roll:

 

The brakes are self adjusting, so the pads stay in the same place relative to the disk ;)

[Henny 0]

But want the pads wear affect the pedal feel? :roll:

 

The brakes are self adjusting, so the pads stay in the same place relative to the disk ;)

 

Which is why I can't understand why Kev says that the MKIII or MKIV pads make a difference over the normal Corrado pads 'cos after the first couple of pumps of the brake pedal, the slack should be identical... :|

 

Dunno, I'll try MKIII pads in there when I get my arse in gear and fix the rear ABS rotors before it gets icy again! ;) :lol:

[Gman 0]

You need to be fairly careful setting them up, you actually need the winding tool even if you have all new kit to ensure the piston is as close to the pads as possible

The brakes are self adjusting, so the pads stay in the same place relative to the disk

 

Now I am a bit confused. if the brakes are self adjusting would they not adjust on the fist few pushes of the pedal. If this is the case then would you still need the winding tool?

 

Thanks

G

[VR6 0]

You need to be fairly careful setting them up, you actually need the winding tool even if you have all new kit to ensure the piston is as close to the pads as possible

The brakes are self adjusting, so the pads stay in the same place relative to the disk

 

Now I am a bit confused. if the brakes are self adjusting would they not adjust on the fist few pushes of the pedal. If this is the case then would you still need the winding tool?

 

Thanks

G[/quote:63f25]

 

As the brake pads wear down (hopefully evenly), the piston has to move further for the pads to contact the disc. This is why it needs winding back in.

 

If you are replacing barely worn pads then you might not need the tool.