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AngusL

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Posts posted by AngusL

  1. Posted

    Guys that bolt is a PITA to get the right size - so far I have tried 3 different dealer supplied bolts and I have had to resort to Halfords and get a M12*80 bolt and cut the damned thing down to size. I have seen a parts diagram that refers to M12*58mm got the Halfords bolt cut it down to 58mm and it still wont wind in far enough...Got to cut a bit more off it to get it to fit - PITA. It does not show up on the front engine mount diagrams but it appears to be on the gearbox bolts diagram. Look for the diagram of the oil sump / flywheel shield and its on there.

    I can see its a M12 but length is a bit of a mystery - its obviously less than the 58mm long threaded part suggested in the diagrams I have seen.

  2. Posted

    Hi Andy,

    Mine did the same thing on Friday shedding that lower engine bracket bolt. I had a few more complications as a result of the engine movement though.

    All in hand now.

     

    The interesting thing is I used your pics of what you ordered labelled as the right part and gave your order number to my local VW dealer and they didn't show it as that number it was something else. I don't have the details yet as I will be picking it up on Friday but it is a M10 x 45mm bolt which are the dimensions I recall seeing in the other forums. Also yours doesn't have a load spreading flange which they should have. Anyway I ordered the same part so will see what turns up and I will post the number on here to help others who will need this at some point. I was tempted to get a std stainless steel M10 x 45mm bolt on ebay but I think its ebay seller GTI_LINE shows the correct bolt with a picture of a partially threaded bolt with the flange.

     

    Cheers guys keep up the posting as were all seeing the same issues and it helps.

     

    Angus

  3. Posted

    Progress and its not so bad at all.

    I managed to get the drive shaft off easy once the wheel was back on and it was back on the ground.

    Drained the oil out of the sump and slackened off all of the sump nuts - oily as hell under there too so was cleaning the damp oil and cv grease off whilst access is good as the front end is a couple of feet high. Some of the sump bolts were way too tight and all need a good cleanup. I noticed that the old sump gasket is the thicker type and the replacement is a thin type that needs the gasket sealant. I didnt take the sump bolts out but will have to check the bolt lengths to see if i will have a clearance issue with the thinner gasket and bolt lengths.

     

    I more or less have the bits off and need to wait until next weekend to get the new bits back on as parts ordered online and wont be turning up until next week. I think I will get a thicker rubber sump gasket as the paper thin one i have can only lead to sealing problems and i have time to order parts.

     

    Not got the brake pipe separated yet but have given it a helping of wd40 - May well be buying a pipe flaring kit too this week as im not sure that will separate. The old discs were Tarox std size - they needed replacing as they were old and rusty in the grooves and thin and I know about spirited braking leading them to shatter on some cars. This was the driving motivation to get the 288mm setup on. I have trial fitted the new setup and all looks good. Having previously done the rears its strange how the brakes felt spongy at first then they got noticeably better over a week or so.

     

    A little more optimistic now that its almost ready to go back together. My car has a decat - cat back stainless steel big bore and a cone inlet filter. I dont know for certain but feel it must have a remapped chip it shouts fairly loudly but it goes like stink and still gets around 28 to 35 mpg per tank. What a fantastic car Im going to miss it this week. I am already anticipating how good its going to run when its all back together. I have also fitted the gear lever bush kit and it turns out it had the short shifter and the mod had been done so I could get the lever out from the inside of the car. Almost there.... Next weekend - hoping for more good weather. Its funny how most of you guys on here know exactly what I am saying having probably done all of this stuff already. Keep posting guys the info is invaluable when you are tackling the issues for yourself.

     

    Hey Dox get it done whilst the weather is in your favour, I did my heater matrix with snow on the car over xmas week that was no fun at all.

     

    Have a great week guys.

  4. Posted

    Ok - Got down to business stripping the bits down - I have a painted 288 mm front caliper / carrier brake setup to go on with Some nice Braided hoses - pads etc... I am currently fighting with the detached driver side drive shaft... The drive shaft nut through the hub is going to be fun and games to get off - Having jacked it all up and removed the braking bits I now have to put various bits back on to get the wheel on, to then drop it back onto its wheels to undo the drive shaft nut. I just got a bit peed off with the CV grease that was everywhere - it seems there was a split in the outer cv boot too... All being replaced with a complete drive shaft so no matter.

     

    Funny how things work out though.... Having jacked up the car and had a good look under it - it appears that the front engine mount lower bolt - the one that attaches the engine mount to the block has gone. Had the drive shaft not bitten me how long would this have lasted before something else reared its head ! Who knows perhaps the entire engine coming loose and jumping out of the car !

     

    I was also looking at the brake pipes the inboard junction - I did read somewhere that they do not come apart cleanly so may well end up having to replace both of those pipes too. Off to at least try to undo the bits I need to get off then see what else I need to replace to put it all back together.

     

    PITA - I have a shiny new sump and a Mann oil filter to put on - Hopefully all of the additional parts will arrive this week and next week should be more Corrado fun ! :-) For the first time in a while it wont be used this week :-(

     

    Oh - Someone on here did mention that when their fans started misbehaving they found a single spade wire from the front oil (perhaps temp) sensor - guess what.. the very same wire was dangling loose - Wouldn't that be a burger if that was the problem all along...

     

    So far its had new rear brakes / MK 4 calipers. A set of 17inch wheels. New heater matrix. Temp sensors. Rad fan switch. Uprated headlamp wiring loom with uprated bulbs. Ignition switch. Engine HT leads holder and a painted VW VR6 engine top cover. Clutch master cylinder. Aux water pump. Bits of broken missing interior trim. Interior looks great now.

     

    I still have a crack pipe and thermostat to fit... Back to it now :-)

  5. Posted

    Hi guys probably more of a rant that anything...

     

    My VR6 has been running great - I replaced the Fan control module today and replaced the spoiler control module too went out for a quick check to see if both modules have the desired effect - Spoiler only previously works on the switch but its smooth so no jams in the rear mechanism. The cooling Fan has been an item of fun and games and I decided to replace the sensors and rad switch too previously - no change so got a replacement FCU. As soon as it was up to temp and shutdown the fan came on for the 10 mins afterrun which it hasn't done for a while. Wasn't too bothered about the FCU as I wired up a stage 3 switch in the car (From the black sensor low voltage wiring only) and a few mins on that and everything is cool and happy.

     

    Anyway - Went to test it all again this afternoon - I got 3 mins from home and heard a sharp click as I moved away from a roundabout then no drive at all ! Right in the middle of the roundabout too !!! Hazzards on - engine fine gearbox seemed ok to select gears but no drive at all and no crunchy noises - turned it off and pushed it out of the way. Had a quick look at it and low and behold the drivers side inner driveshaft had come completely loose and separated from the gearbox drive flange. Got the wife to tow me back home had a quick look on ebay £49.99 complete including postage - sold. Not bad just a pain as I cant get it until Tuesday so a couple of days down... Oh Well.

     

    I was gearing up to change the front disks to 288mm and install the MK3 front calipers this weekend - Possibly a new sump and oil too. Finally got everything to do it all too - I had been struggling with the Stainless hoses as no one wants to sell a front separate to the rear - Already done them - Goodrich Stainless and new Golf mk 4 Calipers - new std rear discs and new bearings all on and happy :-)

     

    Yesterday I drove the car over 160 miles and it was fine except for 1 small click sound somewhere on the A1 - The morale of the storey is - If you know your car and anything strikes you as odd - what was that noise etc etc... Make sure you check it out and don't leave it to chance. The drive shaft must have been coming loose for a while and the odd click two or so times wasn't enough to set off alarm bells but I should have checked it out. Anyway it seems like no damage done 1 bolt snapped in half but the rest appear to be sitting in the driveshaft waiting to be retrieved when its cooled down enough to pull them out. I could have rebolted it all together but as I turned full lock to get it positioned on the drive the shaft bearings and bits were deposited on the drive for me to collect. Some nice big ball bearings in there. At least it wasn't the gearbox or clutch as I had first thought.

     

    Anyone for a game of marbles :-)

  7. Posted

    Hi and welcome, Over xmas I did my heater matrix and after not running for a few days and thick snow for the UK - my vr6 did the same thing. It was the ecu plug just needed a squirt of wd40 and a clean up using compressed air. Worked perfectly ever since. If may be well worth your while to give the big loom plug the same treatment. The loom plug is easy to undo when you know how. If you dont know then you will never open it. Grab the inner part and twist from the top towards the front of the car and it opens up and separates. There is a static bit that does not turn on the side towards the winscreen washer bottle. good luck. Even if you find your problem elsewhere it is still worth doing these steps.

  8. Posted

    Oh no not that same Hella problem again. I did my heater natrix over Xmas and had all of that fun with Hella. I did post the warning about it in here. What I found out is that the Hella unit is the LHD item wrongly labeled as the rhd part. Crap really that they haven't sorted that out yet and you guys are still being bitten by a problem they know about. I got a Valeo unit which is original fitment and did come with the foam gasket. I got mine from Wannapart online who I think were sold to some other business so no longer exist. I still have the boxed lhd hella heat exchanger in my garage so if anyone needs it let me know.

  10. Posted

    Hi Jamie, That's exactly what I did a deal with the seller.... But between me doing the deal and getting the email back with the Paypal details.... Someone else jumped in and did a buy it now ! So I get another email telling me its sold as someone else bought and paid for it (I guess USA based as they could enter the panjo state / zip details)

     

    I just wish to point out that you cant (correct as of last week 8th April 2015) pay by card on the panjo system because if you don't have a State and a Zipper thingy, it wont accept the card details if you live in the UK.

     

     

    Wayne - Keep up the good work mate. I attempted to go through PANJO twice last week which is when my frustrations finally let go and I had to email PANJO support for such a glaring hole in the system, which is where that response came from. So the real answer is "I have NEVER used Panjo" for payments coz it don't work guv. So I resort to PM, email - Paypal that's what I have been doing all the time.

     

    I don't know what's been done to correct this payment situation but if I can add my 50p's worth.. The Panjo payments page needs a panel that says the payee is USA or UK (Country switch) and then to request the correct address information.

     

     

    No more angry red text telling me "eff off - do it again"...

     

    So there is my little bit of feedback lets see PANJO payments get to that click, click payment complete situation. Happy Days :-)

     

     

    AngusL

  11. Posted

    Hi Guys,

    After many frustrating attempts at paying using a debit card on the PANJO payments system associated with selling on this forum.... Its not just me please read on....

     

    I have attempted to buy items on this forum - a couple of times recently where the PANJO payment won't work so I email the seller to say please PM me an email address for a Paypal payment (Delay in awaiting the response - just the normal email wait for a response). During the time that I am awaiting a reply someone else jumps in and does a buy it now (I guess from the USA) The following is the response I received when I got pee'd off and asked PANJO Payments what was going on with their obviously USA based payments system...

     

    PANJO Payments Response:-

     

    "Right now, the payments accepted for a given listing are determined by the seller of the item. We can only enable direct payment through PayPal if the seller chooses to accept it. Believe me - if we could have a PayPal "Buy Now" button on every page, we would.

     

    The issue for your forum and one other forum based in the UK is that our credit card processing is very U.S.-centric. This feature was heavily demanded and most of our users are in the U.S., so we wanted to get something available across the platform so that users could access this feature. We are working on two things to help your current situation:

    1.A setting on our side that enables us to disable credit card payments on a forum-by-forum basis; and

    2.Support for international payments.

    I understand that this might not be an ideal answer, but I hope this provides some more information for you. "

     

     

    Ok - So there you go its up to the sellers to add the Paypal payment.

     

    Regards

     

    Angusl

  12. Posted

    Hi - I will buy these. Please mark them as sold. I tried to use the buy it now but the PANJO system wants a USA zip code ! Then it complains that it only wants the zip code numbers..... If you could PM me your details I will use Paypal or I can pay cash on collection - This Saturday PM ok ?

  13. Posted

    A quick update.

    I decided to fit the clutch master cylinder as detailed in my post above. It worked. Took a little over 45 mins but it's in and it went back in easier than the the old one came out. After bleeding the clutch now returns to its normal correct position where before the pedal was frequently sticking half way up. The slave cylinder is new and had been changed just before I got the car. Refer to my eBay link shown above. You do have to rotate the high pressure pipe but it's soft and easy to rotate. Make sure you get it pointing straight into the socket as the new cylinder body is aluminium - initially tighten it by hand So there is minimal risk of cross threading it. I started to tighten the high pressure pipe by hand before doing up the two main bolts so that the cylinder could move to match the high pressure pipe threads. The high pressure pipe was hand tightened to at least half it's thread easily The inlet thicker pipe pushes on easily.

    All things considered its an easy cheap replacement and the car does not need to be off the road for any length of time. I clamped off the supply rubber hose from the brake fluid reservoir I used a one way single person bleed valve. I did not have to remove the brake servo but I did use pan head bolts so an Allen key needs to be inserted to tighten up the nuts on the inside.

     

    I hope this helps someone It's not a hard task. Yours does look good Jim but I think new components and no downtime and a 30 pounds price tag I'm fairly happy with that. Getting the old ball end out of the pedal assembly now that is a real fiddly task. Look at the new one that comes with the cylinder to understand how it comes out. Please note mine is a 1995 Vr6 which does not have the loop connector to the pedal it has the ball end as per Jim's pic above.

  16. Posted

    Hi I am relatively new too and found that pics taken by modern phones the files are too big. What I have had to do was dump the pic onto a pc then Google an online picture compressor (free)that will compress the file to a more acceptable size for the forum. I think anything over 1mb in size cannot be uploaded but as soon as the compressed file is under 1 mb It's fine. It wasis a bit more of a faf bit that's what I have found works.

  17. Posted

    Hi Guys,

     

    A bit late on this but it doesn't seem to be resolved as yet...

     

    One of the first things I bought for my VR6 was this clutch master cylinder (copy and paste into your url as its not treating this as a hyperlink) :- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CLUTCH-MASTER-CYLINDER-VW-CORRADO-2-0-2-9-PASSAT-35I-1-6-2-9-/381035761721?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item58b7805039

     

    I have not fitted it yet but I know there are 3 subtle minor differences like the thick braided return pipe is pointing up at 45 degrees (no issue at all) and the high pressure pipe points straight out the back as opposed to up at what looks like a 45 degree angle. The other issue is the lack of thread to bolt it back into place - New bolts with nuts on the back would fix this. The Bentley manual shows nuts on the end of the USA LHD version - again no issue.

    I have got pics of the original in situ both inside at the pedal and outside where the pipes leave the unit. It looks like a minor task of carefully rotating the outlet high pressure pipe to match the new outlet. (I know - famous last words :-)) There looks to be a few cm to be gained by pulling the high pressure clutch pipe a little towards the master cylinder end to get more pipe length to allow me to rotate the high pressure outlet pipe to fit.

     

    So the question is - Am I missing something here because this is new and only £30.25 delivered ?

     

    It even came with the plastic clip that the ball end connects to the pedal with - this bit looks exactly the same as fitted into my vR6.

     

    Do you think I'm making extra work for myself?

  20. Posted

    A quick update - Took the brake position sensor out and stripped it down today. 2 contacts between the plug and the board had separated - I understand that this is a common problem with these.

     

    Its an easy fix if you can wield a soldering iron. After reassembly took the car on a very quiet road and tested the brakes over large manholes and ABS is working well and the ABS error light is remaining off. No errors on the vag com either afterwards.

  24. Posted

    Yes Jim the brake pedal sensor is in the brake vaccum servo as Kevin said and feeds brake pedal position signals to the ABS. Without the signal No ABS as it turns off. And annoyingly switches on the ABS light just what you need for a 3 hour drive.

    Its like sunshine in the dashboard

     

    Seems to be a common problem on the forum.

     

    Based on my previous wiring issues it wouldn't surprise me if it is a dodgy connection in the wiring. This weekend it's going to get another looking at.

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