AngusL

Hi Lilfuzzer,

Do you still have the round headlight waterproof caps - the ones in the pics. I didnt see anyone ask for them.

If they are still available can you give me a price on those please.

Thanks

Hi Guys, Thanks for the responses - Lilfuzzer if you could confirm if you have one that would be much appreciated.

Sean you have convinced me I understand what you are describing as a variable potentiometer it sounds like a shaft or rod driven item based on the pedal position... Ok I will take a look at it this weekend I will happily strip it and if possible repair it myself.. Do you remember the old scalextric controllers similar principle right....

I will report back afterwards and try and take some pics for anyone else who may be facing a similar issue.

Cheers All

Hi Sean,

I read many good things about DGAutotech on the forum I tried to call them today but got an unrecognised number response using their number on the web site 01299 253373. I have sent them an email but not heard from them yet.

Fingers crossed they get back to me otherwise it's a diy job I have not removed the old unit yet so don't know what's involved.

Thanks for the info always appreciated.

This Vag Com is the bees nads.

In the meantime the shout is still out there for a working replacement if anyone has one it may save me some time.

Regards

Hi guys,

Just got a Vag com up and running and have a recurring Brake position sensor failure 00793 G100. It's for a 1995 Vr6 corrado fitting.

Anyone got a working one lying around that I can buy

Regards

Angus

Hi Matt,

Switches received and one fitted in all of 30 seconds. Working fine nice bright LEDs. No problem at all. Very happy with it.

To everyone on the forum - buy with confidence.

Cheers

Angus.

Cleaned and reseated U1 and U2 (Instrument cluster wiring harness plugs - ref Bentley manual) Blue plugs into the fusebox and done approx. 300 miles now and speedo has remained rock solid. Looking like that's sorted it.

Hi Jim,

I bought one of the twin relay looms from eBay it's instructions were to cut into the dip and main beam feeds which I did soldering the cuts and heat shrink tubing sealed afterwards. So I threw away the new loom crimped ends.

This allows you to retain the oem headlight plugs.

I did notice the old wiring looking decidedly worse for wear and had to be cleaned up to solder the new wires in. Leading me to believe that it's the old wiring that is the major factor in the bad lighting on corrados. I am going to give the new loom a second chance after waterproofing the relays.

Next time it fails I will be replacing the old wiring from the headlight plug back to the fuse box with some lower resistance wire and see how that works. Given that the original wiring lasted 20 years and the new loom relay lasted 2 weeks..... You see where I am going with this... It's the old wiring at fault so replace it and you keep the original relays in the car out of the way of the elements. I think if you relocate the new loom relays back in the car... That's a bit too much wiring that isn't needed.

I strongly believe replacing the old wiring is the proper fix for the trusty corrado headlights.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]80503[/ATTACH]I recently fitted one of the uprated 2 relay & 2 fuses looms to the headlights. All worked fine after initial fitting and whilst using the car for 2 weeks afterwards.

After 2 weeks the car interior lights were stuck on and I couldn't turn off the headlights when exiting the car. I ended up pulling off the new wiring loom dip feed plug to turn the main lights off. Hmmm !

I also ended up pulling the headlight switch apart and cleaned it up but nothing was wrong with it. What a complicated little switch. No heat melted parts as others have reported.

The interesting thing was the full beam illuminated all of the dips and headlights - Very BRIGHT lights at last.

After much reading and wiring checking (Again) - GUYS !!!! Water in the new loom relay !!!!

Why don't the new loom instructions state that the relays MUST be waterproofed. This is an old problem as I have seen references on the forum to this from years ago. Only after hitting the problem though do you look for causes.

I am fitting the relays into a sealed small sandwich type box with rubber seals to protect them in future. I would advise carrying a spare one or pair of relays for future issues when out on the road at night.

If you fit a new loom headlight kit you MUST waterproof the relays.

I hope this helps someone out there.

I have edited this to put up the pic of the offending new loom relay ! Only been driven a handful of times since this was fitted.

By the way Halfords are selling the RING 30 Amp relays from £4.99 to 50p Check with their web site and move fast !

Fixed my dips for 50p.

Hi Guys,

I managed to track down the intermittent Speedo problem over the weekend.

It was related to oxidized contacts in the engine bay big loom plug - I think the 42 pin connector on the rear right hand side of the cylinder head. All I have done is use wd40 and compressed air to blow it all out afterwards. Speedo now working fine.

I guess age is catching up on these cars now but its not a big task to sort things out or am I being lucky.

Hope this helps someone out there..

Hi Guys,

Sean I believe you are correct. After calming down and thinking about it the pipe with the spaghetti was the inlet to the aux pump from the heater matrix. There is an arrow showing the direction of water flow. It was the old heater matrix that blew up on my first drive home after picking the car up.

Definitely getting this car back to being a daily runner now.

I replaced my VR6 Heater Matrix a few weeks ago and the air was still cold afterwards....

Explored this site and others to see if anyone had seen a problem like this before - Air locks was all I could find.

Did all of the massaging of pipes header tank cap off hot engine etc etc. Had a 200 mile round trip during the cold spell and thought enough was enough the heater had to be sorted out... Car drove brilliantly on the whole journey too [ATTACH=CONFIG]80454[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]80455[/ATTACH] but no heat. After a couple of hours of freezing and its no fun. The wife was wrapped up with blankets which is not a good look for my Corrado !

The Auxiliary water pump started humming on shutdown so I bought a Bosch replacement from Germany thanks to a link on here... has not turned up yet so I went after the old one today to see if it could be resurrected in the short term. No blown fuses so the aux pump still has power. No big task to remove and only approx. a 30 mins task.

I disconnected the hoses and ?????? take a look at the pics of what I found in the inlet pipe....

I cant quite believe what I am seeing in there it looks like a spiral cable tidy that must have melted and been pushed into the aux pump. It must have been some sort of reinforcement in an inlet pipe. The good design of the aux pump inlet has a basic restrictor which is just 3 legs but it was enough to stop this mess from being pushed into the aux pump and heater matrix.

A good clean out and reassembly of the pump and reinstalled and WHAM - HOT air in the car again....... This major blockage in the waterway is what caused the coolant not to circulate through the NEW heater matrix.

Can you believe that this amount of rubbish in a cars water system and it still worked. The water was circulating through the small bypass pipe before the aux pump inlet to the top of the header tank.

Take a look at those pics and I am not joking it really did come out of the Aux pump inlet.

Impressive that the car drove 200 miles (done it twice like this) and has not overheated. All motorway driving so constant airflow.

Mole grips are the tool for the water pipe clips - they work excellently. The fact that they lock in the compressed position makes the task of opening and moving the clips easy.

The best part is - No damage to the aux pump... A no cost fix even though I have bought a replacement it was sub £40 delivered so will do for a spare.

These cars are something else - Heater now fixed I can drive the car as a daily driver now.

Hope this helps someone else out there....

Hi Matt, Can you put me down for two on the next batch please. Any idea when you may be ordering another lot?

Cheers

Angus

Cheers just saved me hunting around excessively. Good priced Bosch part. Just ordered one. Will be fitting this over the weekend.

Many thanks

Well it's a good thing I like working on this car...

I did the heater matrix the other day and tidied up a ball of messy wiring above the fusebox which entailed unplugging each fusebox plug and rewrapping with insulation tape which has tidied up the mess caused by an alarm fitter many years ago. Put the car back together started it up midway through to make sure all was ok. Yep started fine. Cold spell so left it over Xmas. Dash looks fantastic as its all back together with some bits that were missing - went to restart it. No start. No spark. Ok I must have miseed reseating a plug or fuse or relay. Plenty of time checking it all over and wd40 on the contacts but all seemed ok. Today was going to rip the Sigma M30 out but it was working well so didn't want to condemn it. So suddenly had a thought go check the ecu plug. Guess what. The ecu had a fair bit of minor oxidation on the pins.... WD40 and a bit of a fiddle and a wiggle and clean up of the plug and pins ... Car started first time.

If your car engine stops or if it's been left standing for a while if it turns over but won't fire up Start at the ecu plug wd40 and blow off any oxide build up.

Coincidence indeed that this plug was not touched but caused me some serious wasted time.

I hope this helps someone out here.

Regards

Update.. Valeo in, dash back in after I tidied up the wiring. I have a few pics to put up of the matrix to bulkhead bolts because if you see them it becomes obvious that when the two bolts spin just keep turning and they are undoing themselves on the inside. Pics to follow

Hi Sean,

You were right it was alarm fitters doings. They had stripped out the sheathing on the main wires for about 30 cm and left the wires bare so what I did was unplug each plug in turn from the fuse box and simply resheath with masking tape.

What a difference it makes. My fuse box can now be accessed much easier. There wasn't any redundant wiring as the alarm is still working fine. Total closure and central locking too.

I put the dash back in and am happy again that the car is driveable now.

Top marks to VW for building such a solid car now it's all back together I have a greater appreciation for the way the car was built. Fiddly to strip but solid when put back together properly.

Mine is a Dragon Green Pearl as well.

Cheers.

Hi Guys,

Noob here - 1995 VR6 that I am getting downright NASTY with...

I have done the Heater Matrix job - Messy but not the end of the world and Heater flaps all working well.. Had a look at the wiring and what is this mess ? It works OK, so is all connected properly - I had a bit of an intermittent speedo which I though would be a bad earth. I have cleaned up the earth wheel but looking at this mess resting on my fuse box... I don't know what's gone on here and it would take me weeks to chop and shorten this mess.

Can anyone shed any light on what this extra wiring may be - there is a lot of it and I can't see any consistent chopping and rejoins? See attachment. The picture is terrible but you can see miles of cables.

Cheers

Angus

Hi Drucey - I am no specialist and have never done this task before - however having taken the dash out it will be easier next time should I have to remove the dash again and the cordless screwey certainly speeds the task up. I read that people break things in removal of the dash like the clips on the back of the heater motor plastic ducting that goes into the Heater box assembly or the arms on the heater flap mechanism. None of this is good and I am aware of it so want to avoid breaking anything. If you read the forum you will see that where the matrix has been done with the dash in there is plenty of talk about using force... Things are going to break and I want my car back together as it was. Perhaps I'm a bit anal but I dont want to introduce new problems into an already old car. Fingers crossed so far I have the bits out flaps recovered and smooth and easy flap operation so far so good. Ok Ok So there was excessive force to get the glove box out but I researched this and it took 2 mins to remove.....Not a problem at all.

The only real issue I had that I have not mentioned before is the lower bolt on the engine bay side this holds the heater box to the bulkhead - Just as others stated in the forum it was stuck firmly and only spun when I tried to undo it. I though I would get it out by using mole grips on the square section on the end of the bolt and WD40 on the bolt - Nope no good and that was all that held the box inside so yes I confess i simply pulled it gently but firmly and it did let go on the inside of the car. I am not a person to be beaten easily by this and will be taking the bolt out (Mole grips on the inside of the bolt head) then running a die down the threads to clean them up then epoxy bond the bolt head back in to the heater box and use copper slip grease on the threaded part when it goes back in. It will be as good as new. Then put a plastic sleeve cover over the engine bay thread to stop road salt seizing it again. Famous last words.... My wife says I talk too much Hmmm !

Hi Andy there are a few items for me to tidy up. The first task I did was the drivers door central locking simply wiggled when the remote door button was pressed. It turned out to be a broken retaining leg on the central lock to door pin push causing the cl rod to jump out of the retainer every time it was operated. After finding out it is now an obsolete part I set about it with a soldering iron to melt the plastic back into its correct shape. I found the broken leg in the base of the door. Some additional support melted into place and it doesn't look far from the original shape.. It is only working consistly now - result. However I found that VW Heritage were able to order some with a few spares from Germany. Should be arriving soon.

When I bought the car the previous owner had attemped to fit an Audi set of triple gauges under the heater controls. The centerfielder console dash part was smashed to bits so I have a replacement for that which is going in with the rebuild this weekend.

I had a single wiper mechanism which worked fine until the matrix blew then it always stopped at the same point in the sweep. I simply bought a refurbished setup and Lipo wipers and its fine now.

You can't see the matrix as its an integral part of the heater. I read that you can take the matrix out without the dash but.... I wanted to refurbished the heater flaps and tidy up the wiring as it looks such a mess. I have a Bluetooth Sony head unit that I would like to fit so that I can connect my phone and have internet radio and phone hands free so seeing the radio connections was also important.... You get the idea. It looks far worse than it is looking at the mess. I am looking fwd to getting it all sorted

If anyone is going to do this and by now I think all Corrados will need it sooner rather than later my experience is pay the money and get a VALEO unit it was the original item in the car.

An interesting thing is when the matrix blew out there was some steam on the windscreen but no water in the footwells. I have been driving the car for fun every weekend and no water has leaked. I guess this is down to the valve that stops the water leaking out of the cooling system. I have seen pics of water all over the footwells which mine being a 1995 didn't suffer from.

I wish that I had bought the car during the summer so that I could have worked on it with a bit of warmth around. Getting there.

As you can see I am not afraid to get stuck in and love working on the cars.

I got a pleasant surprise before I stripped the dash... The heated leather Recaros do work.

Merry Xmas to you all

Hi all - My first post.

You already know but what a fantastic car the VR6 Corrado is ! I only just found out after 20 odd years !

I recently bought a VR6 Corrado and am slowly working my way through all of the issues. On my first run home the car popped the heater matrix. After much reading here and across the various VW sites I decided to tackle the issue last weekend. I purchased a VALEO heater matrix and was given a HELLA (RHD) as a replacement - the supplier did discuss this with me prior to me receiving the Hella unit so it wasnt a surprise but was a big difference in item price.

I have never done this swap before and lets face it until you strip out the original which as you all know is a HUGE task. I decided to take out the entire dash as I had a few other issues to sort out under there. One of which I suspect is a dodgy earth causing intermittent speedo and rev counter operation.

Anyway, dash out after a few hours. If I can give you one tip its to get a small cordless screwdriver with loads of bits and bit lengths. It really does make this job a million times easier and you dont damage screw heads or threads. Just be careful on reassembly as the torque could overdo it for you. As it tightens hold the driver "loosish" so that when it is tight it can move enough to stop the power - Hey it works for me.....

OK so here is the problem - After taking everything out yes I have a mountain of parts and wires everywhere in the car now, Replaced the New Hella unit and guess what the pipes are too short to exit the car so joining the coolant pipes is impossible.

Be warned - I reported the issue to the supplier who have been brilliant in sorting the issue out, However HELLA have categorically stated its the correct part and admit no liability. Screw the bloody liability I want my car part and to be able to put it back together ! I have insisted on a VALEO replacement part and this has been sourced in Germany which is being delivered later this week I hope.

On the WANAPART UK web site they have 2 HELLA items listed 1 LHD and 1 RHD. If you order the RHD item - IT WONT FIT your Corrado!

Pics attached so have a look and you can easily see what I am talking about. The other two pics are the mess my car is in after everything is stripped out of the dash to do this task... Obviously not the electric heater as it was too cold for my liking.

I did the Heater flap refurb using Duck tape and a double sided spongy tape for the edges which is covered with more duck tape.

The stiffness in the heater flap operation was fixed by a small amount of WD40 into the flap rotating plastic joints - Really easy and a massive difference to the clunky operation before.

I will update this if I can with the outcome and result of replacing my dash.