Kevin Bacon

How do you test the variable intake Kev? Just get someone to rev it and check to see if the actuator moves? What sort of rpm should it activate?

 

A CEL would be a handy addition, someone else mentioned it recently too!

 

Yeah the 167 fuel pump relay works fine, you can also use a 32 for the ECU.

 

I need to check my SAI, I'm pretty sure I haven't got a relay for it anywhere, will this cause problems?

 

I have a 17841 fault code which relates to this, the only code that concerned me on the last scan.

 

Can anyone remember when they removed the original VR6 looms? I had a single relay not part of the fusebox just hanging loose behind it, only connected by 2 wires, I think that is a 100 but I don't know what it's for!

 

I'm dying to have a play with the turbo to see where I can fit it lol, going to drop the exhaust down soon and have a look to see how much room there is, another thought is to make a false floor in the boot and invert the spare wheel well....

Yeah that's it. You have to give the throttle a firm stab and you should see the flap actuator move. I think it switches on at 1100rpm and then turns off at 4100rpm, but it seems to be load related as well.

If the SAI relay isn't connected, the ECU will fault code it and you also won't get any long term fuel trims. Ditto if the evap purge valve isn't connected.

That's a good idea about inverting the spare wheel well! Should give you tonnes of room!

I feel a "shudder" on full load at 2k and seems to be there on coast down too but once past it seems fine, well except at 1k which also seems to have a similar feel but not as apparent. I have always had issues that the car doesnt run great on first start up. almost like its learning the parameters over again.

That is almost word for word how Fanjita described his issue to me once. The last time he brought his car round to mine it was idling really badly too.

I think the only way to solve this is to bite the bullet and get it up to Stealth.

I can't feel a difference when cruising if the intake flap opens / closes. You definitely can under acceleration though! You can check the flap is working with an assistant prodding the gas though.

The MAF seems to be the main culprit for poorly running R32s but they do at least throw a CEL light if it gets bad enough, but of course you guys don't have CELs :)

I had a BDB as well and I used the original relays from the donor car, so that's 30 for the ECU and 100 for the SAI pump. The VR6 fuel pump relay is OK though. I think there's another relay 100 for the main power supply circuit. I didn't use that on mine and I was getting intermittent "Power control" errors in VCDS.

Excellent, the rear mounted turbo is going to be a good laugh!

Dinitrol

If you have a Wurth outlet nearby, their cavity wax smells exactly like the stuff they used at the factory. Same colour too.

Gonna have to hold my hands up and say I can't stand the factory ride height.. not having it a bit lower just isn't an option! B12's and standard ARB's sounds like a good starting point for me. Out of curiosity could you elaborate on why the stiffer / thicker ARB's would be such a bad thing? I figured that, as the name suggests, it simply takes out roll.. does this result in a much firmer ride though? What are the negatives of stiffer ARB's?

It is a comedy ride height for sure. I used to hate it as well but if I was in the market for a super clean standard VR6, it wouldn't bother me now! It would if the handling was as bad as the ride height looks, but it isn't :)

ARBs - Exactly what Dox said, so if you have really big bars, the spring rate goes up significantly, which can unsettle the car badly on mid corner bumps. And it's worse on solid rear axle cars because both wheels are tied together anyway. Add a big bar to that and it gets even worse. That's why I suggested taking the big bars off and see what you think of the ride quality with a new spring / damper kit before putting them back on. As you know, Corrados essentially don't have a rear ARB at all as standard, and just use a front one to tune it for under steer.

The only time big ARBs are invisible to the driver is when both wheels on the same axle move the same amount at the same time, but that is extremely rare, so 99% of the time, bigger ARBs ruin the ride. That's why Range Rover and McLaren developed hydraulic ARBs. They are disconnected completely on a straight road for ride comfort, and recouple on corners.

Ah I see what you mean now Rob, no, those trims are not designed to form a water tight seal against the glass. They are purely decorative :)

I would ask Vince at Stealth. In theory yes if both ECUs have chip holders, but as one is coilpack and one dizzy, there's probably other differences that won't go over.

If the scuttle panels are fitted correctly with the clips, you can't lift them up at all (without breaking them). We are talking about the 3 panels under the wiper arms aren't we?

I wasn't trying to dismiss our dear old Valver friends as not worth high values btw, but £9000 is bloody steep for any Corrado, let alone a valver!

As for Lady owners still being used as a selling point these days, it's just outmoded. The lovely ladies of this forum excluded and using the women of my life thus far as a yardstick, this is why I avoid lady owned cars:-

Too many short journeys, oil never gets up to temp.

Don't service it often enough (or ever if you're my Mum & Girlfriends 4 - 12)

Dangle their chain of 50,000 keys and novelty key rings onto the roof whilst fumbling around in the handbag (also on the roof) for their phone or purse.

Take their chain of 50,000 keys and novelty key rings out of the ignition BEFORE opening the door and scratch the hell out of the door card plastics.

Are unable to judge gaps and kerb rash the wheels (all 4 of them).

Are unable to judge speeds and wait at junctions for an inordinate amount of time.

Have poor night vision, too easily distracted by cones and other reflections and seem unable to cope on roads with no cats eyes.

Park as close to the shop entrance as possible (not miles away like us chaps)

Make pale grey / beige sun visors orange with constant application of foundation.

Scratch / mark the leather with their buckles and other bits of metal sticking out of their haute couture outfits.

Etc

No worries mate, just doing my bit :)

Remember that modifying triangle we discussed a while back that we all go through? I.e. We buy a car, identify some weaknesses, modify it until we hit the peak of the triangle, and then we realise VW got it right in the first place and slowly start undoing the mods..... well that's what happens with suspension a lot! :D

Yeah we love the flat cornering of stiff springs and fat ARBs, but hit a patch of busted up road and we immediately regret it :lol:

I still remember the day I went out in Neil's blue one after he did a Kip special and replaced every single suspension part with new OEM and honestly, around my local roads, my KW V3'd Rado was no match for the standard car's blend of handling and comfort. I don't ever remember a standard VR6 devouring corners quite like that, so it just goes to show how we all forget what the standard car is capable of, but people are just too shallow when it comes to the looks ;)

Anyway, I'm not suggesting you go that extreme as it's ruddy expensive, but the B12s with stock ARBs I think you'll like!

With one of these I expect - http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B004S6N8WO/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=479289247&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B004T2VAH2&pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_r=19NZ5161CE1M498N3J4E

I warn you now though, you will probably get a lot of that irritating "Blip blip da plip plip buzzzzzzz" noise from your phone through the speakers.

I recently bought something similar for my MK4 Gamma stereo and I have to put my iphone in Aeroplane mode, which is no biggy as I don't ever look at my phone whilst driving anyway. And neither should anyone else ;)

Sam, try pulling the MAF and see if the 2000rpm chuntering is worse or better.

Looking forward to the turbo development Chris :) Are you still looking to go rear mounted?

There used to be an Oak Green Corrado on here and very nice it was too, but the colour suits the MK2 Golf better imo.

Helious blue might also suit a Corrado :)

Lol, let the comments commence :lol:

A Schitt advert and "1 lady owner" is not a good selling point imo.

As for £9000 for a valver, yeah right.

I take it the clip retainers have snapped off yours then?

Most screen fitters just stick them down with a big glob of the urethane glue they bond the screen in with.

I have Bilstein B4 dampers, KW springs and uprated front and rear ARB's... the combination does not work well at all. Shock absorption on anything more than a small bump or pothole is quite crashy but the worst (and strangest) characteristic is bouncyness so possibly something to do with rebound (I must admit I don't know anything technical about suspension).. uneven road surfaces that previous Corrado's of mine have dealt with fine, seem to make this suspension setup bounce the car up and down to the points where I almost thought I was going to leave the road when I went over it a bit fast once! The springs and dampers really do not match / suit each other at all.

The bounciness is because the springs are too soft.

What you've got there is a soft spring, a damper with a very firm high speed compression and uprated ARBs, which increase the spring rate across the axle. It's a mismatched mess as you say.

Just pull it off and start again with a properly matched kit, like the one we've been discussing, the B12.

Put the standard ARBs back on as well. Get the car behaving how you want and THEN tune the under / over steer characteristics with an ARB.

Big heavy ARBs ruin the ride quality on rough roads, so they should always be done last.

Any time. I'm glad you're enjoying it!

Yeah that's a good shout actually, TSI, or maybe the recent VAG TDI engine that Vince mentioned to me recently, which apparently has an insane torque curve and feels like a petrol turbo to drive!

Can't do it until I've bought my next house though. Currently renting my Dad's old house which has no garage or covered working space :(

What have people done about the PCV Valve, I've got an AUE code engine with the PCV outlet on the left side (looking from the front),

I havent got the original PCV valve, At the moment it is feeding into the intake after the MAF but before the throttle body,

From what I've read, the following may or may not be true

The VR6 24v has a (sophisticated) built in baffle system already in the rocker cover and doesn't need the crap OEM PCV valve,

You don't want oil vapour in your engine, can cause air/fuel mixture to be more volatile,

Oil residue in intake is normal on engines, it's called "blow by"

Vr6 PCV Valve is to stop the pressurising of the crankcase when intake pressure rises at high RPM,

PCV valve stops an intake backfire igniting crankcase gasses

Catch can is the best solution,

 

So what solutions do people employ

cheers

Steve

You mean you haven't got the round disc shaped thing on the intake pipe?

It's the MK5 that has the sophisticated breather and is called "Cyclone" IIRC. The MK4 3.2 / 2.8 just has a normal wire-in-a-box separator.

I would just go by how oily your throttle blade gets. Mine takes months to get even vaguely dirty, so it does a good job of keeping oil out.

Ahh the Oettinger 8x17s on the car to the right of yours, they bring back memories! I think a couple of sets of those did the rounds on the forum some years back. Heavy, but nice!

I don't really care about your car or your recent achievements. I just thought I'd drop my little trip down memory lane in there!

Only kidding :D Love the Double Din work and the cup holder. I never thought either were possible when I had my Rado, but you've shown it can be done and look OEM in the process. Kudos my man!

You're a bad man. I thought my Corrado days were numbered, but this is all inspiring me to hunt down the mintest Ice Grey in the country and dust off my turboing gloves again.

Now faced with the problem that the car will not MoT on emissions and is showing fault codes from the two rear lambdas, the secondary air pump, and the evap solenoid.

I left you some advice in the 24V thread about that, which you seem to have ignored. You're welcome.

I removed the secondary air pump, just have the solenoid plugged in but I'm still getting a fault code for that, not looked into it yet.

Relay 100 still needs to be connected otherwise the ECU will moan. That's the main drive relay for the pump. There are over 15 SAI maps in the R32 ECU and they all need disabling, but the physical connections still need to be 'seen' by the ECU.

Some items that aren't connected also cause the ECU to not give you any long term fuel trims, such as the Evap canister solenoid.

You would upgrade those anyway when you buy a speaker set as that's where the tweeters live.

Fanatic sound like a cheapy generic brand. Personally I wouldn't bother with the rear 6x4s as even when uprated, they contribute virtually nothing to the sound experience, in fact, I always faded them out and just used the fronts.

The fronts can sound good if (as said above) you sound deaden the doors with something like this - http://www.monsteraudiodesign.co.uk/shop/gladen-aero-2-door-kit-standard-sound-deadening/ and fit some decent speakers. Ideally you need 6.5" components in nice Audioscape door pods, but I have no idea what happened to them and it can start getting expensive.

Pioneers are OK. Gladen are very good. Alpine are OK. Focal are a bit bass shy but most people really rate them, JL are very good. SEAS are superb. Rainbow are very good. Hertz are good. and so on.

I realise I've thrown a lot of brands at you. Just encouraging diversity as there is far more choice out there than people realise I think!

VR6 PAS pump + 4 motion 6 rib pulley + 4 motion belt = no problems for me :)

I wish he had decided that before he agreed to do mine, would have saved me months of hassle and a few hundred quid, **** poor customer service!

Only doing looms onsite now smacks of customer distrust, but, ME7 looms can be a royal pain in the rump, so I can understand it to a degree. However, given he asks what car the loom is going into, it should be supplied fit for purpose.

Stealth did my loom and sent it to me in the post and it all went in perfectly with no problems. I have to say, Vince is an amazing guy with not only this stuff but also after sales support. Once you get to know him, he really does go above and beyond compared to other tuners.

Yeah that's normal. Most cars have more fuel down hill and less uphill :D

I would have thought by now they would weigh the fuel in the tank instead of ancient floats! Cost I suppose!

Pretty much up or down. If I sit at ~2000rpm its pretty noticeable as i can sometimes make the car hop around. Only really noticed it recently, but that could be as I was being a little less "enthusiastic" with the drive

Your two's are SWICT conversions aren't they? Never had that with my BDB conversion. Stealth did the mapping & wiring for that.