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VEEDUBBED

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Posts posted by VEEDUBBED


  1. Age old problem mate, even if you do find them, as you try and remove then they crumble Like ferkin oxo cubes..

    I'm getting on a few headlamps next week,IF i manage to get one off i'll let you Know.

    If not, electric Motor with adaptor time..


  2. Not 100% sure mate, I remember years ago I had a genuine vr6 gearbox that had a code that read AJK, I opened it to find that the gearset inside was virtually the same as a g60's gearbox but the final drive was 1 tooth longer.. God knows what Vw were up to..mixing and matching.

    Try to get a CCM mate, I bought a CCM gearset, again, years back but I counted every tooth on every gear cog, they were all different, when compared to a CBA g60 'box the CCM's gears all had 1 tooth more, and the longer final drive.


  3. As title my little fish.

    I've unearthed two of 'em, both battery side.

    We all know how rare these buggers are gettin now, especially with these

    Perfect reflectors and glasses that have no pock marks from stones.

    If anyone's interested send me your email and I'll send a few photos.

    Unfortunately both are missing the small clips that hold the bulbs in place and one

    Has been sealed with black silicone at one point, Christ knows why because no water leaked in, otherwise the reflector would be shot anyway..

    £60 a throw.


  4. I'm sure i must have one mate, let me check tomorrow morning.

    Do you need one with a key? Also, has your other handle got a raised lip around the lock barrel?

    Send me your email and I'll get a couple of photos for you.

    Cheers-Andrew.


  5. The only thing on the block would be the warm up regulator, if it's an early KR 1800cc model, even then (going by memory) the banjo bolt diameters are different.

    Defiantly very unusual this problem, I've seen loads of problems on different Vw engines but nothing like your problem..

    Try and get a clip uploaded showing what the hell is going on and we'll see.


  6. Yep, every one I could find except the steering rack, thanks to c&r enterprises who never sent them..

    Same thing, try pushing in the first few mm's so that the Bush's are in square in the wishbone then press them in using a socket.

    Put some grease on the wishbone's hole first and then press.


  7. Did polys on mine about 10 years ago. The poly versions went in without a struggle but obviously they cost more than the normal o/e versions. It sounds like your changing the old ones with the back axle dismantled?

    If so, try heating the axle housing first the pressing in the o/e bushes, smear some grease on the outer metal casing first then press them in slowly, they should go in straight.

    If your doing it with the axle still in place, use a length of threaded rod and washers and slowly force them in that way.


  8. Try cleaning out the metering plunger inside the actual fuel meter Unit, sometimes they gun up and get stuck open allowing fuel to be constantly injected into the engine, flooding it.

    I think it'd be pretty obvious how the fuel lines connected up, afair the banjo on the fuel inlet is bigger than the return anyway.

    Check also the actual resistance of the funnel arm with the air flow disc fitted to it., if plunger is stuck in the full load open position, the arm will be free with no resistance 'cos the plunger is fully up.


  9. Fisrst, welcome aboard!

    Jesus, what's left to change?!

    Try starting it with the 5th injector's plug disconnected, it maybe jammed open as they rarely turn on unless the outside temp. is really cold.

    Sounds like the intake cam is a few teeth out of phase, probably isn't but check the actual static timing anyway, a quick way of telling if the inlet cam is roughly timed is when you remove the oil filler cap, the lobe for the inlet valve can just be seen, it should point towards the 10 o' clock postion, if you can't you'll have to remove the rocker cover and check the inter cam alignment scribed lines on the camshaft's chain wheels, both should be flush with the cyl. head outer edge and inline with each other at TDC.

    To check the engine's timing, align the scribed line on the flywheel/crankshaft pulley that corrispondes to TDC obviously, your going to first get no. 1 piston on its firing stroke, Remove no.1 plug and put a screwdriver down the plug hole to deterime where the piston crown is.

    Failing all that, as a last attempt pull all 4 main injectors out of the inlet manifold and put them into plastic containers, turn on the ignition and see what happens, possibly 1 or more injectors stuck open and pi$$ fuel into the engine, it happens.

    Go through that lot first then report back mate.


  10. You can get the proper tool off ebay or Amazon, it's round with multiple blades of different sizes For different types of terminal.

    If not i use tiny precision screw drivers that flatten the locating tab, you then pull out the terminal.


  11. Right, REALLY BORED NOW..

    Daft question time, If I could go back in time to say, 16/1700 ad, if i spoke to the first dude I met would he understand me? Like if I told him to eff off or similar? Would any swear words be used back then?

     

    What would happen if I broke a leg or had high blood pressure? Not like they'd be any hospitals around..

     

    Could you get drugs back then?

    Told you i was bored..

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