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VEEDUBBED

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Posts posted by VEEDUBBED


  1. Don't want to come over wrong andy but i take it you've done something like this before?

    If i may offer some advice, i don't think your going to use much off the corrado in the photo mate, gearbox ratios will be very short, the corrado clocks i don't think will fit inside the jetta's instrument cluster hole in the dash, i personally would change the pistons in the KR mill as the CR will be way too high, then you have the exhaust, turbo manifold, wastegate, injection system in place of the totally insufficient fuelling system, turbo plumbing, intercooler, which type and where? uprate front brakes...the list goes on..

    As i said before, and on the PM i sent you, i don't want to come across as a big headed know it all mate, it's just that i've been there and done this loads of times now and know virtually all the pitfalls..


  2. So along comes VEEDUBBED to the rescue.. Giles, I've got 6 injectors off a 19.000km ABV engine mate..

    Still attached to the fuel rail with fpr too..

    Let me know if you need the sods..

    Remind me again, how long has the car been idle?


  3. Andy, i've been trying to add your number to my Whatsupp list but I don't think it went through.

    I'll try again later. What are you planning on getting off that silver corrado? Are you gonna turbo the corrado 1.8 KR engine? What's the front end like condition wise?

    Cheers.


  4. I'll check and see if i have any good one's Left.

    Absolute sods to get now, in good condition.

    How the Christ can an insurance company write off an entire car for a poxy fog light is beyond my understanding..


  5. Right,

    Have any of you animals got a spare crankshaft they wanna flog?

    1.8 g60 or 1.8 8/16v 1800 mills only as the stroke has to be 86.4.

    Even a shagged one will do, only need it to mock up a trial engine

    Cheers.


  6. A bit of both, rivets shear, clutch forks tend to bend when you fit strengthened clutchs, at around 400whp the gear sets tend to get forced apart but there are special braces available.

    Gear teeth strip, especially 3rd.. Basically a gearbox designed for a 200bhp car, when your doubling the power..

    A possible solution would be the 02S fitted to various r32's but even they give problems.


  7. Right, i'm getting old now and can't remember alot..

    Who knows if there's any difference between a 9A 16v 2.0 crankshaft and a normal PG g60 Version?

    I mean stroke wise, i know, of all People i should know the differences but i've sold all My spare cranks and i never had reason to measure the buggers anyway..

    Yanards, yu around?


  8. Pog's right Dave, one of the pegs need knocking flush with the block, especially when using the metal 2.0 16v ABF headgasket, like i did. I even used two before buying JE's but found that it was a crap solution.

    ARP's are a must for the head and the KR head would be ideal, try and get a set of 2.0 16v ABF cams installed and you'll love it!

    The block's there mate, no crankshaft though as i sold it along with the sump years back.

    Anyway, you need the block+pistons so i'll try and get down tomorrow morning and pull it all out, then get you some photos sent.


  9. I've Got a forged 9A bottom end spare, 9A head too and half a g60 charger, all spares i had when i did My 16v-g60 Engine yonks ago. Forged pistons are brand new, 83mn jobbies, only ever Got the bores taken out to size and kept the lot as spares so never even run.

    Be a good base for a g60 valver Engine.


  10. Hi, Welcome to the forum mate.

    I've done quite a few over the years, KR 1800 turbo, G60-16v on a 9A bottom end, turbo 8v..

    Gearbox wise, def. run a LSD, i fitted a Peloquin years ago, no problems and a good price.

    Try and get the gearbox internals off a CCM vr6 gearbox but change the final drive and use the standard G60's shorter version otherwise i found that the car is quite dead low down and you loose out acceleration off the mark.

    Never done the taller ABF 2.0 valver engine, would be a very good base though, the cams are ideal for turbocharging, just swap over your Digifant 1 setup and use that with a modified no-lag SNS eprom, i used the same eprom on my old G60-16v engine, excellent.

    I have loads of components left over, forged pistons, 9A block, 16v heads, turbos, injectors, ecus,manifolds, wastegates...

    Let me know if you need any info.


  11. Sam, when you do re-bleed the System, try and use a pump Like the Sealey Version that has a pump handle that pressurizes its own bottle filled with brake fluid. I try not to use the two man method of pumping the brake pedal to the floor, there's always the risk of buggering the internal seals on the pump that's 20+ years old and has had the internal seals working only a few mm's of travel during all those years..

    Not saying it WILL happen but you never know mate..

    I


  12. A little Unclear, if it was for a set, as in a pair, why put in quantity?? unless your needing to repair more than two headlamps possibly?

    One has to ask the question, how many times have you adjusted your headlamps anyway, i don't think i ever have..

    That knob is just a waste of cash, the knob part rarely breaks anyway.

    To complete the job of having electrically adjustable headlamps, you'd also need one of Rayner's uprated looms that also runs the levelling motors and a switch off eBay.de, i've seen them go for as little as 10 euro.


  13. By the time you've spent $190 on 2 metal adjusters, if I got it right, they are sold single and not a pair, added postage, paid import tax.. One could have bought two electric motors and adaptors for half the price AND add the electrics on at a later date if desired.

    No brainer for me.

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