Bennitoapplebum

12 hours ago, Popeye775 said:

Now this may also be a dumb question but when adjusting the fuel pressure up for the chip - since it needs 3.5 bar - , is it 3.5 bar with the vacuum line plugged in or unplugged because I saw someone say with it unplugged but want to double check this


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Yes that is correct.  Unplugged.  

1 hour ago, Popeye775 said:

UPDATE:

Started second try today. Ran pretty well. I took it out for a test drive and the only place it felt weird was in boost shifting to third. It felt like right off the shift for a split second, it started to misfire. Out of boost - going into third or any gear - there wasn't much of any misfire if any at all. But in boost, it felt like it was misfiring/burbling going into third. I am going to get it vacuum tested, but I have a feeling there could be a vacuum leak in the boost hoses maybe?? Possible ground issues as mentioned above?? 

Ideas???

It’s definitely worth checking for vacuum leaks and voltage drops.  That way you’ll be playing with a full deck of cards.  But if she runs fine with no misfires or hiccups while cruising out of boost, then I’d say it’s more of a tuning issue.  The worst case scenario is if you’re running out of fuel in boost, causing misfires and ECU timing pull.  The ‘not so bad’ scenario is your boost is blowing out your spark.

After your next test drive(after the vacuum leak check) it’ll be helpful to pull your plugs and do two things:

1.  Take a picture. Compare them to online pictures of what’s healthy for boost. Or send pics here

2.  Close the spark plug gap a little smaller than factory specs(~.023”)

If your plugs show dangerous signs then you gotta address the fueling first before going for another drive.

2 hours ago, Popeye775 said:

So I got ahold of BBM and they basically told me the same thing. I am also running that 4bar pressure regulator and all supporting mods for the stage upgrade. I just wanted to be sure that I didn't need to get a new cam for this chip or a new chip for the cam haha

Eventually you’d want that higher rev limit chip though.😜 I remember the stage 4 BBM chip giving me a ~7200rpm limit.

5 hours ago, KarlosG60 said:

At as I know this grease does not conduct electricity, so it shouldn’t be applied directly to the mating surfaces (pins and sockets) of an electrical connection 🤔. I am right?

Maybe a grease like Liqui Moly 3140, which conducts electricity it's better ?

That is correct.  The grease is only applied after establishing good contact.  I don’t have any experience with Liqui Moly 3140, but I like to practice no grease product on any electrical contact/mating surfaces.  Sounds interesting, I’ll look into that product for future use.

31 minutes ago, KarlosG60 said:

For the record: Accelerator body valve in intake manifold was changed and solved most of the problems, but not at high road temperatures (+45C) and heavy traffic.

Anyway, the car is out of the road for 10 years. I write about that rpm problems in heavy traffic like it happens yesterday 😅

All those problems you list are normal for a Corrado.  Just kidding.

Fix all the grounds first, then you can start diagnosing the problems.  Sometimes fixing the grounds will be the cure.

The main grounds to check or replace are:

1: Main battery ground to frame(1xshaunx1’s pic)

2: transmission bolt to frame

3: intake manifold to firewall

4: firewall to hood hinge

5: ground “bus” above relay/fuse box

Make sure they are clean, have no crud or corrosion before you bolt them down.  Dielectric grease can be used AFTER bolting them down, to prevent corrosion/oxidation.

All these grounds are important on older cars as there may be corrosion between the spot welds and mating flanges, reducing current flow to the interior.

3 hours ago, Bennitoapplebum said:

 

I’d double check that ground wire going into the car.  Someone has worked on the car previously.  Theres a possibility that they incorrectly bypassed a ground, giving you a bunch of problems.  These cars are old, and any wire that *looks* okay, needs to be confirmed through thorough testing.

Would you happen to have the Bentley Manual? 

11 hours ago, 1xshaunx1 said:

It’s behind the battery to the left as you look at it from the front of the car. Take the battery out to get proper access. Mine looked like this before I cleaned it up. 

On 8/9/2020 at 8:51 AM, KarlosG60 said:

I had being moving the terminals of the battery and sometimes the cluster gauge displays all numbers, sometimes a few, sometimes none... I don't know if the problem came from the battery wires.

I tired holding for 3 seconds the MFA button. Nothing happened.

 

Anyway, I pulled out the gauge cluster to make some checkings, but I don't know how to start.

I don’t wanna be responsible for blowing up your engine, but they will run together.  Just as any new setup, it needs tuning for good response and max safe power.  The 260 cam seems to max out at 5500rpm and the 268(@~6000).  IIRC, all that the stage 4 kit added was a higher rev limit with a 4 bar fuel pressure regulator. and smaller pulley.
 

I’d run the 268 with the stage 3 chip if I had the 4bar regulator installed.

20 hours ago, Popeye775 said:

Weird development:

I put on an old ISV I had to see if the ISV could be the cause. As soon as that one went on, the car started it’s misfiring again. Put the new one that I had bought for it back on, and the misfire continued.


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Intermittent problems are usually caused by bad power/ground connections. 

I know you said you’ve checked all grounds and harnesses.  How was that tested? Resistance testing? Or voltage drop testing?  Or just a visual inspection?

Resistance testing is not really accurate as older wires may show good continuity, but cannot carry current when the load is present.

A visual inspection is even worse with these older cars.

Voltage drop testing is key to finding these electrical gremlins.

I was forced to learn a LOT just for owning a Corrado😂

Other than the rough start, did it clear up your low rpm misfires?  From the video it seemed to be running okay?  

I may have been mistaken, those three components (fuel sender, oil pressure light, and coolant light) share the same power wire from the voltage stabilizer within the cluster.  Earlier I said they shared “grounds.”  With that said, there *may* be a possibility that something shorted during installation.  
 

Have you tried to “reset” the MFA by holding the button for ~3 seconds?

The water temp and oil pressure light tie into the same grounds within the gauge cluster unit.  If you can't find any external wiring shorts, I'd try to change out the cluster.  I'm not sure if the newer one you have is compatible.  The wiring diagrams indicate that earlier years have an external "coolant low level control unit, " and the newer ones are built-in.

Besides the fuel pump, any other wiring mods done to the car?  The buzzing relay can be caused by voltage issues, shorts, mis-wiring, missing grounds, or the relay itself.  Im suspecting the console wiring is shorted and causing the loaded display.  The same short could also be contributing to the buzzing relay.

I'd be more concerned about the spray pattern being different.  I'm not sure why they'd sent one with a different tip.  Are those the Bosch "Green Giants?" PN?

42 minutes ago, Popeye775 said:

So might as well take the intake manifold off and go about it that way?


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Your application may be different and may not be needed. You *could* leave the harness there, and pull the injectors+rail out, but sneaking them around the harness was difficult as the wiring was very stiff on mine. 

It’s possible to reach the bolts with the manifold on.  But if you’re willing to take off the manifold for access it would be easier.  

It’s been awhile and I don’t have the same engine anymore, so I’m hoping more people can chime in on this.

6 hours ago, Popeye775 said:

What about for getting the wiring harness off of the brackets connected to the block? Or are those brackets for the wiring harness connected to the rail?


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The brackets are bolted to the block.  It’s almost impossible to separate the plastic from the brackets without breaking.  You need access from underneath.  When the brackets are unbolted, the harness+brackets hang from the injector wires.

I’d suggest to remove the fuel rail+injectors and harness as a whole assembly.  Lubing the injectors with a little penetrating oil will aid in removal.  Wiggle the whole assembly to get penetrant around the o-rings.  It’s been awhile since I’ve done it but I may have had the valve cover off, as I was also doing the cams. Having the valve cover off made it easier to access the assembly.  Getting good leverage against a wooden paint stick and a pry bar under the rail was key.

8 hours ago, seanl82 said:

Thanks for posting. It might be difficult for us guys in the UK to obtain the Mercury Cougar ones anyway, but the Ford Fiesta will be in abundance. 

There is someone here who is in correspondence with VW Classic Parts, and they've declared a willingness to produce a run for both sides dependant on numbers. Think there are around 60 so far, but if the same could be done in the States (assuming that's where you're from) I'm sure it would push it over the line for minimum orders required....

I’ve replied to Storm Warning’s post about the moldings(2 orders). I’ve assumed it was also for the the US? I’ll have to try and get a group order and shipment down this way.

This week I’ve discovered an alternative to edocdog’s usage of Mercury Cougar moldings for the Corrado.  It’s not as sleek as the cougars, but it scrapes really well, holds tight, and looks decent.  It is also very easy to modify with basic tools and skills.

BE8Z5821452 “A” or “B”.  2011-19 Ford Fiesta

There seems to be an abundance of passenger(B) moldings available, you can modify to fit either side of the Corrado. If anyone is interested I can post more pics and details of how to do this:
 

I just read your other post.  Just a thing to point out is your crankshaft pulley bolt.  If there is loose red iron dust around the head of the bolt, it may be coming loose and slipping. That may be the cause of your timing coming undone.  

On 7/17/2020 at 12:38 PM, Popeye775 said:

Hey all,

I’ve tried finding other forums - to which I only found some but unresolved - on rough start issues. So my 1990 G60 is having a rough start issue. I just fixed the timing - after it had jumped a tooth - and have looked this car up and down. Here’s a list of things replaced so far:

Distributor
Ignition coil
Plug wires
Plugs
Fuel pump (and relay)
Fuel filter
Fuel lines
Starter
All ground checked
All wire harnesses checked

The car takes a couple tries to turn on. It’ll turn on for a split second and then die the first couple times. It’ll try to keep itself on but can’t usually until the third try. I have new fuel injectors also on the way as for they have never been replaced and the seals have never been replaced either by the PO. Any advice on this rough start issue?

Timing has also been triple checked. 
 

Other than the rough start, it runs and drives fine? I don’t know where else to check besides fuel pressure regulation, and compression. Sorry if I’m too persistent, I just LOVE these cars

15 minutes ago, Popeye775 said:

Hi! I did think about that, but I also just changed the coolant sensor less than a year ago. Although they are relatively cheap and easy to replace so might be worth trying


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Hmm, maybe the sensor is still good.  Any leaks in the vacuum line to the ECU?

Hello! By any chance you have the Bosch Digifant-1 Fuel Injection?  It *may* be as simple as changing a coolant sensor(blue)

Is this up to date? Covid year? I’ll have 2 pairs!