TomD

Right....revival short lived! Got the AA out to have a look at it - several tests confirmed that the GSF starter motor I bought a few months ago is to blame - boo. Lost the receipt to :(

Right - took off the starter, cleaned it all up - chickened out of hooking it up to the battery when i read your second post! Put it all back together - and its starting fine....??? Argh! All the connections were fine, my oil catch tank is directly about the starter and has been dripping oil on it.. could that have caused a dodgy connection?? Damn electrics.....

I tried relaying the solenoid as I said above (think i edited the post after you replied though! Might try and get it off and check then - so connect it to the battery and it should spin? Cheers! Tom

Yes - no difference :(

Hi All! My car has consistently had a tempremental non starting problem. However its got worse and now wont start at all. Battery seems to be strong (12.3 with everything off inc engine) and alternator puts out good voltage (13.5-14v) Been through several ignition switches but it has never cured it. I've just spent a while trying all the connections... All connections seem fine, the issue seems to be the 3 month old alternator.... When you turn the key to ignition, the started motor makes a noise which at first I thought was the rad fan - whirring turning noise but pretty fast (but quiet like a fan) but the actual engine doesnt turn over. The starter motor is a few months old - but it seems like is knackered somehow? Anyone got any ideas? Cheers, Tom P.S. Car bump starts fine, and over recent weeks the starting would sometimes be really weak (like a flat battery) turning over really slowly but starting...which would make sense if the starter was struggling. But battery voltage still good. Tried this too... http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewto ... CH#p855521 but it made no difference... Do i need to forlk out for a new starter??

Hi all! Quick question - doing my brakes soon (rebuilt front calipers, mk4 rears, goodridge hoses all round etc) But... I want to fill it with DOT 5.1 brake fluid, but is there a difference between brands, can anyone recommend a decent one or is it all pretty much the same stuff as long as its 5.1? Done some searching but no brands mentioned as good! Also, a good place to get it from would be very handy! :D Oh yeah, and do you use mk4 pads with mk4 rear calipers? Assuming you do but don't know for sure! :D Cheers, Tom

The other mounts are fine...or they were, maybe not after these latest shennanigans. Good shout on the coil - makes sense if the engine is moving. as there's not a lot of give in those wires - will check it out tonite. As for the solid front engine mount, rapidly going off the idea as I've had a couple of problems with it. Would a vibratechnics front one with stock rears (Gearbox one is a vr one apparently) be ok to stop movement enough to protect the manifold? Speaking to a guy I know who is a motorsport mechanic (World Series) and they have trouble with all the vibrations undoing nuts so they use 'K nuts' which are slightly oval sot they grip the thread and never come undone. Can anyone tell me the thread I'd need for the front engine mount top nut? Can't remember what it is now! Stupid car.

Album56 - you were right! Checked it out yesterday and although the mounts are fine - but somehow the nut from the top of the front engine mount is missing :confused4: :confused4: :confused4: No idea how as I triple checked it was torqued up when I fitted it, and checked it again after a coupleo hundred miles. Has anyone else had this problem with solid front engine mounts - I guess it could be that the vibrations could have loosened it? Seems strange though. Looks like there's a small crack in the front engine mount bracket (which is less than a year old new from VAG!) around the whole where the stud comes through from the top of the engine mount so that may have caused it. Anyway, not found out where its damaged the exhaust yet but its also taken out the rad fan :confused4: Cheers guys! Tom

Cheers Jonathan! I'll check the normal stuff then - ECU line, knock sensor, will have a look at the lambda too as i need to check where the damaage is on the exhaust! It seems to be a more violent loss of power than the second one link - it really is a sudden total loss of power like the engine is going to stop rather than feeling a bit flat! From the fact its intermitent I reckon its electrical rather than mechanical? The map was originally for all the mods apart from the cam so i ideally need it mapped for the cam too - it was running lean when I first put the cam in but the Phirm sorted that out! Do have a boost gauge but was too busy going 'what the f**k' to look at it! Cheers, Tom

Hi! I need your help - my G60 is doing strange things! A month or so ago i put a newman cam in it and gave it to the Phirm to set up for me. It came back from them really good and drove really well - no problems. However over the last couple of days its been playing up. Initially the exhaust started to blow on full throttle, which I could have put up with until I got time to fix it. It then developed another problem... When you press down hard on the throttle pedal the power totally dies until you take you foot off the pedal. If you press gently it seems to be ok all the way up to the red line. Problem is it cuts the power so violently that it hurt my back, and the supercharger has dented the underside of the bonnet even though it has a solid front engine mount and the others have hardly any play! This made me wonder whether this caused the exhaust blow rather than the other way round (may have cracked the 4 branch) but I'm pretty sure the blow came first. Did some searching and found this thread - which seems to be a similar problem but no replies (but mine idles ok): http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewto ... ut#p903813 Any ideas? Its had a new bosch lambda but I guess it could be that, throttle switches? :( Any help much appreciated! Thanks, Tom

No the wiring seemed fine, although wouldnt rule it out...anyway I need to give it back as started motors are exchange so its worth £50! :) Cheers. :D

Cheers for that! So it seems like its ok! One week on...all seems good! So either my started motor was knackered, or the ignition switch i replaced it with was on its way out anyway. My money's on the starter motor... :D Cheers for your help guys! :)

Hi. No its not that - the problem with the non starting was when the light was green (i.e. just unlock) but the car still wouldnt start. Question about the alarm is just to check its working properly, for piece of mind (

Still feeling good - fingers still crossed! :) Have a question though - do any of you have a Toad Ai606? If so can you answer me this? When the engines been running, and you switch the ignition off, does the led on yours remain off until you open the door, at which point it goes orange, then green when you shut the door, then red once the immobiliser is activated (60 secs i think?) For some reason I thought the LED would go green when you take the key out, then go red. Can someone confirm that that isn't supplosed to happen until you open the door? Cheers! Tom

The battery seems ok - gives 12.5V when the engine is off, and 13.5V when the engine is running (with the multimeter on the battery) My head unit has a volt meter on it - but always seems to show less than that, so I think there's a bad earth somewhere in the cabin. Gave the car a service on a saturday, also gave it a new alternator belt, brand new vag black ignition switch and a new starter motor too - the parts guy new the part number off the top of his head - apparently loads of VWs have a problem with ignition switches! Since then she seems much better, when she did fire up the starter did sound like it was struggling, but now sounds much much better, and the key feels better in the ignition too, more resistance against the key when you turn it. Fingers crossed then - if I keep getting problems I'll try and make up the loom like you! :)

Problem is that's not a hot start problem - it was stone cold! :( Could it be the starter motor is on the way out? :(

OK - new development. This morning it didnt start...had to get my gf to help me bump start it. It's never not started in the morning before! :( Gonna try and make up the loom like you've done as see what happens! :)

Cheers for replying guys! Waynos...did the loom you made up work then? So the heat causes the voltage to drop low enough so that the starter motor won't fire up? Is that how the starter motor works - if it doesnt get enough voltage it doesnt turn at all rather than turning really slowly? Or is that specifically a dodgy solenoid/dodgy voltage to solenoid. Does your loom work in the same way as an uprated headlight loom...ie turning on the switch sends a signal to the relay, which in turn draws power straight from the battery, hence giving a higher voltage? Would I be able to use an uprated headlight loom relay? Could make that loom up on the weekend if I did. My voltage has always been a bit crap! Jim...that's what I thought initially but the alarm stuff is all under the dash I think rather than the engine bay (apart from the siren) I rang the alarm guy and he said he's fitted hundreds of Toad Cat 1 alarms and never had any probs with it, and they are tested to XXX degress etc.

Hi all! Now I know what your thinking....ignition switch...but.... The car has never ever had a problem with randomly not starting! A few months ago I had a new Toad Cat 1 alarm fitted, and around the same time I changed the steering column as mine had a bit of play in it. Anyway since then my car has had a starting problem.... In the morning, its fine. Coming home from work, if it's been sitting for a while, its fine - the problem occurs (sometimes) if I'm doing a journey, stop somewhere for times approx under 1 hour (so stop for petrol, drop something off etc), turn the key, you can here the fuel pump going and everything else turns on, but no starter motor. So did alot of searching on the forum and found about about the whole white ignition switch bad, black ignition switch good thing. Checked it out and it turned out my original steeing column had already had the rubbish white switch replaced with the black switch, so when i changed the column I changed backed to a crappy white one. So I changed it back (mission!) - thought I'd solved the problem. But no. So after the AA man helping me to jump start the car today, I need to sort it out! So...is there anything else I can check? Could it be the ignition barrel rather than the switch? If the alarm lets me jump start it and you can here the fuel pump then I guess its not the alarm? Relays? ECU? Any magical cures better than always palking facing downhill? :) Cheers, :D Tom

The G-werks 4 branch doesn't have one I don't think - it does have a joint just before the flange to the decat pipe but I don't think its a flex one as it doesn't seem to do much moving, more for alignment when fitting I think. Maybe it is though.... http://www.g-werks.com/Site/Default.asp ... s_Exhausts its the 7th pic down - quite hard to see but its where the bolts and springs are. I took it to powerflow and the decat pipe is now welded up and sounds much better, he said that the welding was rubbish and that the tack weld holding it the plate onto the edge of the muffler would have dropped off without too much stress. Any thing tack welded is now seam welded so fingers crossed... :)

Hi all! Seasons greetings! I need some help! Last year I fitted a G-werks 4 branch too my car, along with a BBM solid front mount, G60 rear engine mount and VR6 gearbox mount (also supplied by G-Werks) so the the 4 branch wouldn't get any flex and crack - The car already had a Miltek decat pipe and exhaust on it. 6 Months or so ago the exhaust started blowing so checked it out and the weld that holds the bit of metal plate that goes from the pipe to the back edge of the can (on the decat pipe) had come away at the end where it attaches to the can. The engine mounts did have a lot of play before fitting the new stuff so I assumed that it must have been damaged before and given up the ghost since. Managed to find a new miltek decat pipe from JMR (Thanks to Neil G60!) and fitted it in October, but car started blowing again this month - finally got underneath it today and there's a hole in exactly the same place where the weld used to be. There's absolutely no play in the engine mounts and the exhaust rubbers are fine - so is it possible that the engine mounts are too stiff and all the stress is transferred down the pipe to a rather rubbish looking spot weld on the decat pipe? Gonna try and take it to a powerflow dealer tomorrow and weld up the existing hole and strenghten it by seam welding the plate to the edge of the can - but I'm guessing it could well happen again in the near future? Any help much appreciated - has this happened to anyone else? Tom :) Its a G60 by the way! :)

My sunroof used to leak and when it let water in the headlining was soaking etc - but its all dry up top now. Thats why I'm thinking windscreen (probably lower portion) or door seal. Looks like I've got a mission over xmas too! :D

Mine has the exact same problem, after the really heavy rain this weekend my drivers footwell literally had standing water in it. I'm guessing if its drivers side its not heater matrix or the foliage filter etc. What else apart from the door seal/membrane can it be?

worked like a dream! took about 30 seconds a side instead of hours of swearing! :D Thanks again!

As in... put a long bolt through the middle of the bush (with a washer) and something to bolt the bolt into the other side of the wishbone. Then tighten up the bolt to force the bush in. That sounds clever - I'll try it out! :D I found when using a clamp that it too easily goes off centre meaning the bush slips and sits in the hole at an angle and becomes a nightmare to get in. I tried wacking it into the wishbone but the bush bounced away down the garage! :D Thanks guys - I'lllet you know how i get on! :D