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From my experiance with wheel bearings on a c change them as soon as pos. If it is the rears and you are relativly compertant at mechanics(unlike my spelling) you can do them without a press however you will need to be very carefull. You will need a hammer and a 4mm or 5mm drift that has a long shaft. It will help to clean of all the old grease so you can see the location slots on the inside of the hub/disc. when pressing the new races in, be sure they are lined up correctly. When fittting new races get a socket of the right diamiter (cant remebre the size of the top of my head) or you can use the old race to start it but it will get trickie. Dont press the new race all the way in with the socket as it will get stuck stop when the race is flush with the edge of the face of the hub/disc. You will then have to carfully tap it in with the drift, work round the race in the same manner you would tightening up a wheel. There is no real setting for the rear whell baring nut as far as i am aware, but if you tighten it by hand with a socket but no ratchet then put the wheel on tighten up as normall and check for play if you leave the dust cap off the bearing, along with the castle nut and the split pin you can get a socket in to tighten as needed untill ther is no play, some people like a hint of play and i mean a real hint, the choice is yours i tend to remove all play as after a few miles a touch of play may come back due to everything setteling down, more so on old stub axels. With the front bearings i sudgest you take it to a gargae as you need a press, ball joint spliter, large torque wrench, sir clip plyers and a ruber malet. It is also easy to split the new bearing when fitting it if you are not familler to using a press. Hope this help sorry for the spelling i have read through this 5 times and have given up.

The problem i have is that the last owner lowerd it so i dont know the exact drop. I measerd the height from the ground to the bottom of the front bumper it measured 85 mm in the middle so just took a guess (prob wrong) have you got any clues what it might be.

ooops ment to put 195 50 15 sorry was trying to cook diner and type got bacon on my keyboard lol

I have what i belive to be bilstein dampers not sure what spings, lowered aprox 60mm and vr6 comfort pack top mounts (so im told :oops: ) standard BBS wheels 195 50 15 avon zv's on front good cheep last minuet tyre good year egals on back ok. Handels really well no wallowing no tyre squat/bounce little under stear at high sped but thats the way i like it :roll: . bit hard for day to day driving need a chiropracter over pot holes :cry:

Cheers mate do you have the number ?

Hi all, I have a eletric recarro interiour and the recliner motor seem's to have stopped working. I have check the power supply and switch thats all good so must be the motor. Dose anyone know wher i can get it sorted. cheers

Cheers for all your help i will start to look at the list of bits. Luckily some have already been replaced, as befor i bought the car the owner spent some serious money on it. Think i also need to ring him to get the exact amount he lowerd it. I did have a problem with the f/n/s hub the bearing managed to loosen it's self in the hub, chaterd about and caused all sorts of problems. Fixed that (new hub etc) and reset the camber using a digital angle star gadge but cant remember what i set it to, Just took a reading from the other sided. Plus i dont work in motor sport any more so cant get my hands on a gadge so easely.

Can i buy cammed camber bolts from anywere. Or have you found a happy medium.

Geometry was another thing i was thinking of. The car has been lowerd by the last owner i belive about 60mm. Dose any one know the original camber setteings and also the original ride height and just to make the answere harder where they measure from.

Just to add to the list. I have a problem where, when i drive along the road the steering wheel will site with a touch of left hand down then as the camber of the road changes i will have to steer right to stop running of the road. In M.O.T's of previous years (1994) there is a note saying small amount of play in rack. However i dont see how by just conducting an M.O.T they can be so spesiffic as to where the play is coming from and it has never be re-noted in more reasent M.O.T's. As many of you seem very experianced in this topic, what are the possible causes for this. Rack, Column, track rod ends ? sorry for any spelling mistakes.

dont know about the starting maybe your emobilizer is draning the battery or some thing but sounds like the return sprong on the caliper has made a bid for freedome my rears did it a little while ago not to bad to fix about £60have you got a leak on your fulle cap might have watter in there freezing up. hope this is some help.

Thanks i will do that just got back from the paint shop with my car and for the third time they have messed it up gotta tack it back soon :cry:

Thanks mate had a look i like the value do they change pullys as well couldnt find any info on that :D

has any one got a powere steering pump for sale as well as think i might need one

thanks people were is G works i want a pully change and service any one know how much im looking at and were are they.