David Winter

I take it thats the unfitted uncompressed length of the spring? Mine measures 355mm front and 320mm rear so my suspicions are confirmed that it has -40 mm springs on the rear. Standard rears are on the way! Yes , they were measured off the car. Both standard early and late rear springs.

I owned a Storm several years ago and had lowered it and kept the original springs. This sat very high at the back. The Storm went and eventually I bought an earlier VR6 with a much better more level stance. Anyway I replaced the shocks recently and as I still had the springs off the Storm I compared and measured them. Storm/late VR6 rear springs- 345mm Earlier VR6 rear spring-325mm Its surprising how much difference 20mm makes. Had I known when I had my Storm that the earlier rear springs were slightly lower I would have sourced some as I wanted to keep it original and spoilt it with over low and stiff eibach springs.

Guys. Just to conclude this I decided to replace the sensor again. I had put brand new OE sensors bought from the dealer less than a year ago on and this is why I was so confused as I had removed the discs and cleaned any rust etc off the rotor and painted it and could not detect any significant warping but still VAG com was saying right hand mechanical fault. So I decided to replace the sensor again with one from gsf as these are only 15 quid. Guess what. NO more problems!

Please have a look at your abs ecu before you do anything else. Its about the size of a brick. Its located behind a plastic panel between the pasenger door and the foot well. Four plastic bolts and a spring loaded clip to undo and its in your hand. The reason is that I had exactly the same error code with a VAG com but thankfully I was told to check the ecu and sure enough there was mild corrosion on the ecu contacts. No full on water leak like can happen, in fact no signs of a water leak at all. Anyway I cleaned the contacts applied wd40 and no more problems. You may well have checked this already but worth mentioning. Good luck!

Before you do anything else remove your ecu and check the contacts. I was having exactly your problem. I had the codes read and it said the right hand sensor was duff but hey were new. So I cleaned them up again and had the code read again and it said the pump needed changing. This is such a pain to do that I thought Id look at the easy things first. The ecu is easy as to remove. Its easier than the relays to remove. You take off the kick panel between the pasenger door and the bulkhead. Four plastic bolts to undo and release the multiconector clip and the ecu should come out in your hand. Its about the size of a brick. Mine looked perfect until I looked at the contacts.They had mild corrosion on some of them and that was causing my problems. Cleaned the contacts and wd40 and no more problems! .Thank god I did not get the pump changed.! The only mistake I made was to source a replacement ABS/EDS ecu from a vw spares specialist before I removed mine but have not needed.

I have a VR6 with EDS and have recently replaced the ecu. Im talking about straight line acceleration and not just first gear acceleration. It can also happen in hard mid range acceleration ie 3rd gear at 60 so it must be this rotor. Light stays on untill I turn the ignition off.

VAG said that they sell the rear rotor seperately £11. But the front comes with the Hub.

Hi. My intermitent abs fault is I think the right hand front abs rotor. Sensors are new but the light comes on under heavy acceleration only. Fine all other times. I can get to motorwayspeed if I accelerate normally. The diagnostic check came up with right hand mechanical fault. Question is. VAG only sell the whole hub assembly at £70. Is this what I have to do?

Its a good time of the year to buy because Christmas is approaching. This drop in prices happened last year and then picked up around April.

Hi. Have a intermitent abs problem. Had a the fault codes read today. Came up with faulty pump. Question is what is this bit attached to the pump with a plug , two wires and a ceramic cylinder in a metal bracket. I removed it cleaned the contacts and replaced it and now the abs is down permanently. Can this part be replaced on its own or is it a coincidence. I dont understand its function.

To conclude this the problem was found to be as RS VR6 said. I manage to pull the fuel lines out off the clips at the end of the silver jacket and move them away from each other enough so that when I did the next cold start I could see exactly where the leak was. It was the joint between the clear fuel line and the rubber pipe to the engine. So it must have been pouring down that siver heat proof jacket and out the bottom of the chassis where I first saw it. I simply removed the air box and piping so I could get to it removed the clip and sure enough the ends of the rubber pipe were split. I cut half an inch off and re-joined with a new screw clip. It seems ok after a couple of days. There is now no petrol smell. I had not realized how bad it was until it had gone. Thats pretty good as it cost me 45p to fix! Thanks for your help and advise guys.

Guys I cant understand this. I had some time tonight so removed the air box and checked the joints between the plastic pipes to the tank and the engine. There is a jacket with a velcro opening. No signs of a leak here. So started the car and vissualy checked for leaking and nothing anywhere!. It only seems to leak fuel after a cold morning start when the air temperature is cooler and it takes some turning over. But I would have thought as the fuel pressure would be lower then it would be less likely to leak.! It starts first pop in the warm air of afternoon.

See your point. Did not know the leak was that bad. Drove to Devon last week too!. Access looks tight . Is it a difficult job to change these or is it best to get a garage to do it

I took out the fuel soaked piece of foam before I took the picture. You guys say the return could be blocked. How and where do I check this.

Cheers. That makes sense. Looks tricky to get too though. There seems to be no oter leaks around the engine itself. Fuel rail etc all looks sound so replacing the said pipe seems a good starting point once I figure out how to get to it!

Hi. Ive suspected a petrol leak for a while cause of the powerful stench on start up. Today I put the car on axle stands before doing a cold start.It struggles in to life I suspect because the fuel system has lost pressure.It is leaking where you can see the plastic fuel lines under the car. The bizzare thing is that after several minutes the leaking stops and it will be fine until the next cold start. See attached photos. Appologies for photo quality. Any ideas guys?

But Ive only replaced the front side light bulb which is a small bulb and this is the one that comes on. Is it worth checking other bulbs? how come this is connected to the brakes. Wiring unfortunately is not my strong point.

Just noticed after replacing my pasender side side light bulb that it comes on with the brake lights. Must have been like it when I bought it Also noticed that when just the ignition is on and I push the brake peddle I get the tick, tick ,tick that the imobiliser does. 3 ticks in a row. Any ideas where to start. Ive removed the side light bulb for now.

Ive just replaced the sidelight bulbs and realised that my drivers side unit is of the old style with the lens sitting back from the casing. Can I fit a new glass lense to the unit so it is the same as the later style pasenger side unit as it should be (94 VR) or do I need to source a new unit. Ive always thought something was slightly different with the lights! :? Anyone got a good condition drivers side unit?

Ive just diched the badly tinted Knackered side repeaters and replaced with new oe ones. I know the clear ones look good but Im happy with it totally standard at the mo. Mr Sands. I think I saw you on Sat eve. I was walking in to town and saw a green VR at the junction oposite the co-op next to the petrol station in Northwick just after six. Looked nice

A couple more.

Now sorted!. Im really pleased with it. The bumper looks great but having the whole of the drivers side done has made a massive difference. Gone are the parking dents and scuffs. New side mouldings and indicators have been put on and the car has gone from slightly tatty to a nice example in a week as I have also fixed the abs system.

Worked out ok in the end. I cleaned up the calipers and painted them plus various other components and put the disks and calipers back on and got the car driveable. On monday I went to Listers VW who replaced the components with the right ones straight away and gave me a substantial refund! As I now only had to remove the wheels I decided to do it Monday after work. They were a bit harder to install than I thought as they fit very tight. But after a hail storm and some cursing they were on. Now to find the warning swich in the garage drawer.( Id removed it as the orange glow had done my head in). I was half expecting it still not to work as Id self diagnosed it using a multimeter. The rear sensors giving a resistance reading and both fronts not doing so. Dash board switch installed and on with the ignition... Orange light on then off. Result! no more orange glow. Well chuffed! Its now in the bodyshop having parking dents etc removed and will now be well on the way to being a minter

Thanks supercharged junkie. Thought that might be what they had done that or were for another model. They are idiots!

Can some one confirm my suspisions that this new abs sensor is wrong. Ive spent all day removing seized bolts and cursing! Had to remove front disks and hammer the old sensors out. Just as I could see light at the end of the tunnel I compare the old sensor to the new ones and they must be wrong. I would have left it on stands and cycled next week but its due in the body shop on wednesday. Ill have to bung it back together without any censors until useless listers sort it. Anyone know the correct part no.