dr_mat
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Everything posted by dr_mat
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"stodgy at lower revs" is a characteristic of the VR6 engine.. As for testing/diagnosing the cam position sensor, it's really a job for running the engine diagnostics. If it's failed, it'll be reported as a fault code by the ECU, usually.
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Maybe we need a sticky "which exhaust" thread. These come up weekly, all the same people say all the same things (myself included), then the person who asked originally does just what he/she was intending to do all along.. Massive deja vu here...
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VR6 TIMING CHAINS (No noise doesn't mean all's well)
dr_mat replied to GB_SEAN's topic in Engine Bay
I don't think anyone believes there's a mystery to it, just that it takes a long time, that's why they charge lots of cash. You have to have some guy working on your car for nearly ten hours, that simply costs a lot of money. -
I feel like a broken record sometimes, but I'd still like to point out that the OE fits the best, and lasts ten years for the same, or less, money..
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$1000 US is only about enough to buy a bacon sandwich in Leicester square now, mate, you should consider yourself lucky! When you've had a total bill for £2k+ you know you're in pain... ;-(
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Well I've heard a Milltek exhaust on a 2.0 16v Corrado and it sounded pretty meaty. Too meaty, really, for my narrow terraced street - you can really hear it all the way up the street. And that was only at 1000-2000 rpm, too... I understand Milltek to have a better reputation amongst non-VR owners too than VR owners, judging by other threads I've seen on the forum, so I'm sure it'll be a good buy. I have no experience of the Scorpion exhausts, other than that they have a name that inspires images of baseball caps on backwards and bad boys driving 1.2 corsas with blue lights underneath at 35 mph over speed ramps with four mates in the back... Just based on the name, given that choice I'd have the classy-sounding Milltek.. ;) :)
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Each to their own I guess. It gets kinda tedious seeing yet *another* Subaru with an exhaust outlet the size of berkshire bouncing along the ground cos the suspension is too low.. Subtle is good, IMHO. :)
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Ah, you want the Corsa sound thing after all... ;) How about a standard exhaust and an induction kit instead? That way you only annoy the neighbours when you're gunning it, but it's a bit quieter cruising and pootling.. (If you ever pootle.)
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What's wrong with OE? GSF will do the genuine parts for good prices.
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Do it in serial. 8 ohms is perfectly fine... Low ohms is bad, hard to drive, makes it very easy to fry the electronics, high ohms just means it might sound a bit quieter, but is much less risky.
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Most won't, that's a lot of amps. Even "proper" hifi can't do 2 ohms usually.
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VR6 TIMING CHAINS (No noise doesn't mean all's well)
dr_mat replied to GB_SEAN's topic in Engine Bay
corradokid, don't panic, they aren't *all* knackered! Despite all the tales of woe, there's an awful lot of VRs out there with starship enterprise miles and no timing chain work and no destroyed engines. It seems that although the tensioners may wear in many cases, while in situ they don't seem to fully disintegrate - meaning the chains don't slip, oscillate or snap very often. As soon as you take them out of the engine they fall apart, but whilst held in place they seem to do their job, even when well past their best. But I'll grant you it's better to know that it's a possibility and consider it than to ignore it... :) -
They serious? I'm sure you could sell 20 on here if they were "almost indistinguishable" from the original - that would bring the price down to what £25 a pop?
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MFA on the G60 operates on the inlet manifold vaccum as described above, so yes, it's going to be a little/a lot inaccurate. The VR6 does it the *right* way - i.e. eithin the ECU, so there's not really a lot of excuse for the VR to be wrong.
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Rpmayne, did you actually put 64 litres in the car? I rarely get more than 55 litres in mine. My MFA is usually pretty accurate. And it looks like jimbob's is too...
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55 litres is 12.34 gallons == 29.97 mpg. There were 2.7 gallons left in the system somewhere... Not a good idea to run a car down till it's spluttering due to lack of fuel, on the whole....
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The VR's MFA miles-per-gallon readout is driven by the ECU, so it actually KNOWS roughly how much fuel it's putting in, and how far the car is going, so it should be pretty accurate. I doubt you used ALL 15 gallons or did you, in fact, fill the car to the brim, then drive until it ran out of fuel? At the MFA's projected 31mpg you would have had 3.1 gallons left in the tank when you filled up, which is probably quite feasible knowing how flaky the fuel gauge reading is - how many litres did you put in?
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Corrado VR6 got the Golf 3 GTi/VR front "plus" steering/suspension. The earlier Corrados used the Golf 2 setup...
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MoT Failed for Headlights Being Too Dim!
dr_mat replied to CorradoWannabe's topic in General Car Chat
It might be the reflectors, true enough - if moisture has got in the silvering may have degraded quite badly. First things first though get some new bulbs - at least go to http://www.powerbulbs.com and buy the Osram Silver Stars (+50%) bulbs. -
Don't think it was available in the UK at the time. US-only, maybe. Dunno..
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Ask your insurance company - it's a safety critical modification. If they say ok, then do it, but I've always heard that they don't like after-market kits particularly.
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They are now £60+VAT from the dealer. Much reduced but still pretty eye watering...
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Really, the only difference you should make from the standard pressures when changing tyre size is if you change the *width* or the rolling radius drastically. A wider tyre places less load per square inch on it's tread, so requires slightly less pressure. A tyre with larger rolling radius also places slightly less load per square inch on it's tread because the contact patch is slightly bigger, but this is really a miniscule effect and unlikely to make much difference. Certainly not as much as the contact patch changes by adding a few PSI in the first place!
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Though it should be stated that the majority of people who feel disappointed with the performance of their VR6s find out that there's something wrong with them shortly afterwards... You had a 16v before? It should be pretty obvious to you where the extra power comes in now.. if it's not, you've probably got some faulty engine sensors.. :)
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Take AMD's quoted power increases with a pinch of salt. Some people are pleased with their service, others have been unimpressed. But at least you get a nice plot showing your on-spec "+10bhp" to show your mates down the pub.. ;) You can do the same for less than AMD's quoted prices - there's a sticky thread on the forum somewhere from a guy who'll supply an enlarged TB exchange for your old one, for a start. You'll most likely not even need a rechip to take advantage of it.