dr_mat

Most people rarely invoke their abs anyway, even in aggressive driving, and obviously most people can balance the car on the pedal. But you're not as good as the computer in an emergency, no matter what you think.. :)

Good call.. :)

One other point.. just unplug a front wheel sensor and the abs will stop working. They run across the top of the suspension towers under the bonnet. Plug them back in for the MOT. And try not to crash in the meantime as your insurance will be invalid....

The old VW handbrakes were ****e. My VR6 has had numbers like this on the mot for a decade and there's no way to make it better..

He's correct about only one thing: abs is worse than nothing when stopping in snow. It's still more controllable though the overall braking rate might be improved if you were able to lock the wheels. He misses a big point in the rest of his rant. The super skilled driver has just one control from which to regulate the braking force applied to four wheel - each of which might quite well be experiencing a different amount of grip. The modern ABS computer on the other hand has four completely independent controls so can deliver a higher overall level of braking force to the wheels that have grip than even a super skilled highly trained driver in the same car as he has to brake at the level of the least grippy wheel. Not only that but it can detect slip that even f1 drivers can't. There are some things in life where the computer is sooooo much better at it than you are, you just accept it and move on...

Similarly does anyone have a list of all the parts required to upgrade to golf 3 vr6 288mm disks, callipers and pads on a vr6 Corrado? I understand they will still fit under standard wheels and provide noticeably better stopping power.

I did wonder if it was in gear myself. My guess is there's a wire missing and it's next on the list of stuff to do..

Fingers crossed. Was it just me or did the speedo jumped up to 8mph on startup?

You obviously missed this one then... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262401616699

Just make it look like your signature instead of part of your post ...

Aha! Wow. Yes that would it..

Sounds like a bad relay to me.

No. Quite often things move around, sometimes wedged, sometimes not. Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

And one way to diagnose those is to scan the ecu for faults, and if none just go read the output values from the temp sensors from the ecu. VAGCOM really helps here.

Something trapped behind the brake guard is my guess.

Must be something else. General advice on power drain is to get a current meter in line with the battery if you can, and pull fuses until the drain disappears.

I would admit I'm not so familiar with the early 16v/g60 cars so I may be way off with that..

Sounds likely you have an air lock.. this can result in superheated steam hitting the sensors occasionally. I'm not familiar with a light /above/ the temp gauge though.. presumably I never saw it come on? Which car is this? You do have a dodgy run-on control unit or relay i suspect though.

There's a temp switch for the ignition-on fans attached directly to the back of the radiator. I don't believe that controls run-on. Run-on (and ultra high speed fan) is controlled by the small unit attached near the fly hose from the top rad hose. It has two fuses and a couple of relays in there. Afaicr the run-on should only run for ten minutes anyway, and even if the coolant was still hot it should stop. There is no engine temp light by the way, there's a water low, oil low, and battery not charging. Which light are you referring to?

FYI in case anyone needs them: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252173149908

So I spent a (happy?) hour stripping off both door cards yesterday and replacing the door speakers with something that works. So I'm happy. It was a fairly easy straight swap for a pair of "5 inch" speakers, though the mounting spigots in the door pod were slightly too thick so I had to bend the speaker frame a little to accommodate. To save time I also bought a couple of ready-made connector cables that have a VW style socket on one end and push fit spade terminals the other. For £2.95 delivered I figured it was worth the time saver.. :) So, all now working and definitely sounding better than it was before. And bluetooth hands free! Dead useful.

Mine had a bad connection to the face off unit, so is essentially scrap metal.

Amazed to find the pioneer receiver actually supports CD text! I have literally never seen that work before...

Yes, it's the coil has gone on mine and I imagine others would be the same after this time (being slammed with the doors won't help). I'm not expecting hi fidelity but a basic OE style full range replacement will sound a ton better than even a fully working original Nokia (roll off about 4khz). I will investigate the rears but mainly because one of the tweeters is blown back there.. I, also, quite like radio 4 sometimes... :)

Pioneer do a 10cm and 13cm direct replacement, as do halfords own brand. The Nokia ones were decent, well made, but uninspired, and they are twenty yrs old now.. To be fair the Nokia may be better with new surrounds, the old ones are probably stiff as buggery.