dr_mat

Why isn't this the longest thread on the forum ?!?!

Check the "blue exciter wire" for kinks, breaks, poor connections. It goes between the battery terminal and the alternator's regulator. If this has a bad connection then the alternator will not provide charge ... VR6 uses a 90A alternator by default. Some cars with air-conditioning were fitted with the 120A. But I don't think you have an alternator fault.

Hi Bleed the brakes too.. And does the car have ABS? Make sure that's working properly. Cheers

Voltage regulator on the instrument panel is a common failure I hear. You may find this also coincides with an alternator or regulator problem that end too so the supply voltages are not reliable. This is often because the blue "exciter wire" is going bad between the battery and the alternator's regulator.

I have one of these and it transforms the VR. Not a cheap tuning job, considering the gains, but turns it into a diesel crusher without having to wring its neck at 5000 rpm. Hope you can sell it. (Because that will mean mine is worth some money still!)

And "standard" is 36 psi on the front so I say go higher. I run standard 15" wheels and it's soggy as hell if it's less than 34 psi on the front. I would suggest it's the spacers, but could also just need rebalancing.

Sounds dangerous.. I was under the impression that tappets normally fill quite slowly, particularly with thick oil, due to the very small inlet ducts - even if it's at high pressure. Sent from my XT1562 using Tapatalk

Question: If the pressure relief valve is seized shut I get how the engine oil system can go overpressure when the oil is cold. How does this cause a lack of compression?

Much better handling than "modern stuff" since the steering actually feeds back what's happening under the wheels and there's not so much outright grip that the car is inert to speeds where you will not only lose your license but in fact die a horrific death if even the slightest thing goes wrong.. There's something to be said for the slightly sloppy chassis and rudimentary rear suspension design on these old cars in terms of creating a balanced, enjoyable drive. The ultimate in "fast"? No. But fun - yes.

Brakes dragging! Sent from my XT1562 using Tapatalk

In my case it was coming from under the front dash area from the scuttle seals and running downhill to the rear footwell..

FYI all, I can confirm that the teeny tiny smartphone-app-and-bluetooth-dongle OBDeleven tool works just fine on the Corrado VR6. http://obdeleven.com/ Tidy price too.

This ^^^ !!! And, good tip from Jim on how to search. phpBB is a bit rubbish at searching..

I would guess it'll just cause tramlining and put more stresses on wheel bearings/hubs. Not sure what you'll gain ..

Sheesh, most garages like to give you a few advisories just to keep you on your toes..

Either way it needs coding, yes.

I knew you were going to ask that.. I'm not sure, have a dig on the forums. I just know it's not as simple as you might have hoped. :( You could do worse than calling Stealth and asking.

Still not a lot. It was equivalent of 42k when new, taking into account inflation in the intervening twenty or twenty five years. I didn't buy it as an investment, I bought it to consume..

I drove it. And spent another fiver on petrol..

Absolutely. Drive it, enjoy it, don't make it desirable again cos then they will be being stolen all over again.. No one wants that.

One misty eyed article won't touch used prices... They are still gits to look after, expensive, nay painful, to run, and not even able to get most of the parts ..

I think it was quite a /kind/ write-up of a twenty year old car that was designed before every hot hatch had two hundred bhp and suspension so taut you can bounce a fifty p on it.. :) It comes across that they appreciate the car's balance and exploitable suspension and the steering feedback (so blatantly lacking from any modern car with electric PAS). They love the uniqueness of the engine and the characterful tone it brings. They don't however reckon it's that /quick/ really.. I reckon mine feels pretty brutal but that's mainly because it's a 220lbft schrick car.. I can understand why the stock car feels pretty civilised by comparison with evo's usual review cars. Worth a read if you get a chance.

If yours is a late VR6 the ECU is coded to the keys. (Code ending "CP"). Get the ECU checked and refurbished instead (unless you wanna swap the locks, or have it coded to your keys).

This. The plastic upturned lunchbox that is supposed to keep the water out of the air inlet for the cabin ventilation fan is probably loose. Do you park facing up a hill? The water then runs down to the rear footwell..

Low miles though ... could be a nice motor.