dr_mat

This is it, the optimate (and the cteks) have a fly lead with ring terminals that hangs out the front of the car from the battery. It's weather sealed and you just hook it up as soon as you get home and leave it connected. That's what I need, given the use profile of the VR.

I would buy one because it is a good price, but I need something with extensible cables for connection to the car and a permanent fit to the battery. I mean, I could buy this then hack it onto my existing leads, but would be good if they'd thought harder about permanent attachment.

I have been using the optimate 4. It works well, assuming you keep the contacts nice and clean, but it's less than 1A charge current so it's not really much use at recharging a very low battery unless you have a lot of time.. I tried swapping for a ctek last year but it whistled like a ******* so it had to go back..

12A, that's a bit quick! What was the charger you replaced?

What about the Leon equivalent? Anyone tried those?

I find fewer and fewer people actually know what they are these days.. they don't even think it's a scirroco any more.

I think the correct collective noun is a "workshop" of Corrados...

Scary... :)

THREE Corrados. that's dedication right there...

"brief" and "heater matrix" rarely used in the same sentence..

The bottom book price, in other words. Pricing collectable cars is a minefield.

To be honest you can get generic code readers for not many quid, and for something easier to use also try the OBDeleven - a Bluetooth VW-specific OBD dongle. Works with an app on your smartphone. It works on my VR6 no issues, despite it not really being an OBD interface (just an OBD socket).

Now that is a cool gadget. Now if I can find a way to poll it without having to use the smartphone app and log the data back to my PC I can do something useful with it..

I had to replace a rear ABS sensor for the last MOT too. I was getting an "implausible signal" error which was odd actually, but it *was* resolved by replacing the sensor. Of course there can be mechanical issues with the abs rotor or the fitment of the sensor too, but the after market sensors don't cost too much so frankly if you're paying someone to do this work then you may as well chuck anew sensor in while the disassemble and check everything else at the same time.

Yeah, DAB is still a premium. That's why they pushed back the switch-off of FM again..! I just clipped the microphone onto the dash binacle surround, facing the driver. Those I have called seem to think it sounds pretty clear. I would say one thing as a negative about the Pioneer, however; I find the bluetooth playback DEAD handy and the quality is alright (for a noisy 1995 car it's arbitrarily good), but the playback sometimes glitches to *change speed* slightly. Presumably the player is running ahead of the phone so it has to slow down to refill its buffer, and vice versa sometimes its buffer is filling too fast and it needs to speed up. This is the worst implementation of this I've seen though, I've never perceived the steps on any other bluetooth audio device. It does work though, and it'll do.

Cheers, I did pull the door cards off to replace the speakers not long ago but really couldn't see much tbh. As far as I can see the glass rides on rollers that sit at the ends of the arms. The arms move up and down with the motor operation, but I couldn't see anything loose, or out of position anywhere. Bit of a mystery for now. Fortunately it's literally only a quarter inch crack on the outside so water is still channeled away by the rubber guttering. If the interior was getting wet I'd have a lot more incentive to fix it...!

I thought that this sounded like the fix for me.. (my passenger side window has dropped half an inch or so), but I checked and there's nothing wrong with the rollers in the mechanism, something has simply dropped and i have no clue what..

Had a couple of charity collectors on the doorstep yesterday asking about the vr6. Of course, they were far too young to actually know what it was, but knew they liked it. When I pointed out it was 21 years old they were amazed..

Temp gauge too low could be a sensor but just as likely your thermostat is seized open. The fans don't run after ignition off unless their temperature sensor tells them to. So you have a dud sensor most likely there too.

Got mine. Haven't fitted them yet mind..

Yes please.

This thread is crazy long.. try searching back for people who have offered VAGCOM in the past in your area and PM them. Most people won't be checking in. Sent from my Nexus 9 using Tapatalk

I'd like a couple too. Not that the evil car deserves it after all the **** it's given me, but there you go. I am a devoted owner.

Impressive, most people get stuck at the bolt removal stage as they wind up seized...

Removing the alarm system is only as hard as the smarts of the person who fitted it. It should be quite hard, that's the most secure way.. you'd have to trace all the cut points. Note that some alarm systems will need to resync to the key fobs after removing power. Check the Toad documentation.