Jump to content

ross.taylor

Members
  • Content Count

    115
  • Joined

Posts posted by ross.taylor


  1. What offset am I after for a 1990 16V? the tyres on them are 205/40/17, so the width should be fine.

     

    Don't suppose that anyone might know what offset and bolt pattern a Clio would have?? All know is that they are 4bolt.


  2. I have a Sigma MG20E (or somthing like that), that says in the instructions it is full closure compalible. But if I try to opperate the full closure by holding down the button on the key fob it just opperates the panic alarm.

     

    Can it be made to be Full Closure? If so is it easy to do?

     

    I asked at Uplands Car Radio in Bristol, and they said that as my sunroof is a tilt slide on a rocker switch it cannot be made to work as full closure!?!


  3. Have recently got a new rear wiper motor to sort the "broken washer pipe attachment" problem. I was under the impression that the washer is supposed to move with the wiper. But this one stays pretty much pointing straight up the screen. It moves about a bit when the wiper moves - somthing like 5-10 degrees. What happens on other cars?


  4. I have the usual bolster problems on drivers seat and back. Also have what I can only describe as a "leaning" passenger seat, the whole frame seems to be bent towards the door. They are standard Black Leather.

     

    Was thinking about getting hold of a pair of cloth front seats, stripping both sets down and rebuilding a good set. On the same vain, are the right hand drivers and passengers bolsters the same (swapable)?

     

    Is it as easy to take off leather covers?


  5. The paintwork on my 16V is looking a bit sorry. Virtually every panel has something wrong with it. I'm wondering how much it is going to be to get it sorted out. Am I going to be able to keep it slightly cheaper by just getting the small areas touched up, or am I looking at a full respray?

     

    Virtually all of the damage happened before I bought the car 2 years ago, but it did mean that I got a very good price.

     

    -Keyed down both sides right from front wing to back wing - not to deep, goes into undercoat in one or 2 tiny places.

    -Rubbish paint job on bonnet - must have been replaced at some point.

    -Rubbish paint job on passenger side wing - "

    -Front bumper quite scraped up - very small crumple on one corner

    -Passenger door has been dented at some point, sort of half repaired - but still not straight

    -Rubber bump strips have been removed leaving a slightly raised line down both sides - theres nothing left on the paint its just obvious where they were

    -Drivers side mirror body cracked and scraped.

    -Sunroof scraped in one corner down to undercoat - guess that it was not opening properly at some point.

    -Rear bumper scraped on both corners - I guess from bad parking.

    -Drivers door does not quite fit correctly - slightly to far forward I think.

     

    Now I read this it is a rather long list. The car had 6 owners before me I guess that at least some of them were a little less than caring!

     

    So there any way that I can get this lot sorted on the cheaper side of bloody expensive? Estimates?


  6. I had some crazy rear wiper movement a while ago after trying to use the wiper when it was frozen to the rear screen.

     

    I removed the wiper arm and found the splines on the shaft coming up from the motor packed with material from the arm. So I cleaned out the splines with the edge of a flat blade screwdriver and bolted the arm back on nice and tight.

     

    It now works better than ever, and the motor even seems to work better and more freely!?!


  7. Tried to start my 1.8 16V last night and no joy :evil:

     

    Had probs with starting about a year ago, and had the ignition switch replaced and it was all sorted.

     

    But recently (over last month or so) if I leave the car for more than a day or two its a pig to start. Its about 10 days since I last started it. [Only been driving once or twice on short trips in town during the week and long mway journeys most weekends.]

     

    Last night: The starter turns quite happily, and it fired once (literally one spark) in about 20 tries. Although once or twice it sounded like it tried to fire when I turned the ignition off after a start attempt; just a small hicup when turning the key back. :( :(

     

    Dont know if its related, but a few weeks ago, I managed to start from cold drove the mile or so to the garage (V low on fuel), filled up and then struggled to start at the garage and stalled twice within the next mile of town driving, had to keep the revs well up to keep it going.

     

    I've seen posts about the choke, a sensor thingy and other reasons why it might not be starting. Anyone think that they know what aplies to me?


  8. Was thinking of having a go at making my own, hope no-one minds! Just a little short of cash at the mo. Are there any parts that I am going to need that I couldnt get in my local electronics shop?

     

    Would someone please send me the most detailed diagrams available of the construction and installation of the uprated loom.


  9. Whenever I first get into my car and it is anything less than boiling hot the MFA screen is either totally blank or only shows the left half of the screen. As I drive and it warms up more and more of it shows up. It normally takes around an hours driving before the whole screen shows up! Does this mean that I need a whole new MFA or just a new screen? Is there some cheap way to sort this? Is it a very tricky job as I suspect?

     

    Also the time set buttons do nothing! They just rattle around in their holes. To set the clock I have to disconnect the battery at midnight!! Is this new MFA time to?

     

    Lastly the outside temp shows a permenant -40degrees. I'm assuming that this is a sensor fault. The car had a front ender before I got it, so I guess that the sensor is missing or knackered. Are they cheap and easy to fit? I believe that they are behind the front bumper, does anyone know exactly where and has anyone actually ever fitted one? Part #?


  10. Bought a 16V a few years ago with a Remus exhaust. Sounds and looks lovely. However a bit of research showed that could only be a backbox coz thats all they do for the 16V. Pretty sure that this means that I wont be getting any power gains, just nice noise and looks.

     

    Is it possible to have the mid and front sections upgraded to help breathing? Who would do this and how much is it likey to be? Is it worth/recommended to do the exhaust manifold at the same time?

     

    Also dont understand cat issues; where is the cat, what does it do, can I have it removed, what does this do/mean?

×
×
  • Create New...