ross.taylor

With only slight force I can move the wiper back into the correct resting position, sounds like the splines I think. :x . Is it more likely to be the splines on the arm or motor? Will I need a whole motor if it is the motor splines?

I quite fancy getting some bigger front disks on my 1990 1.8 16V. But need to do it on a tight budget. I believe that this is best done with some calipers from a VR or a G60. How much are these likely to be 2nd hand (breakers)? Do they go straight on?

A local company is selling Zimmerman drilled disks for about £32 a corner, are they any good?

Am I correct in thinking that the standard 280mm G60/VR disks will not go straight onto my hubs due to 5/4 bolt issues? What is the best solution?

Obviously the system will need bleading after fitting, is there any adjustment of the system needed?

My rear calipers are looking a bit nasty and rusty. What is the best way of cleaning them up? I was thinking or taking them off when doing the from disks, cleaning them up (either emmery+elbow grease or a sand blast at a local company) and spraying them with some high temp capliper paint.

All help gratefully received.

I tried to clear rear screen of ice with the wiper and some spray the other morning, but the blade was frozen to the screen. There was a slight renting noise and then the sound of the motor but the blade didnt move. I peeled the blade off the screen and now the wiper moves around randomly when I try to use it normally flying off the screen alltogether. Is this likely to be a knackered wiper arm or motor?

I already need a new motor I think because the plastic bit that the washer fluid pipe pushes onto on the underside of the motor has broken off. How much is one likely to be new/2nd hand (breakers)?

Has anyone tried using bosch wiper blades for lupos on the new arms? Are they any better? Surely they have made some blades, they seem to have blades for all cars at Halfords.

Have been away from this thread for a bit, so whats the latest, does the new part number get you blade and wiper? And is it a different number for left and right?

Does this loom uprate dip and full beam? Also does it help fogs? Mine are pretty dim. How much is it and does it come constructed or would I have to solder it together?

When I bought my C (mar last year) the bloke I bought it from didn't have the door keys, he just used the alarm fob, and so I carried on the same. Also I have since de-locked the doors, hence I can't and never could do the key turn test to see if my car is full closure compatable. Is there another way?? (Its a 1990 1.8 16V)

Any luck? I'm interested because it sounds ALOT like problem I've just had. Mine's in the garage now and I'm reliably assured that it's my head gasket!! Worth getting yours checked.

I have a 1990 1.8 16V with a sigma cat 1 alarm which is compatable with full closure. But the full closure doesn't work. I was told that it was not possible to make it work on my car because it has a tilt/slide roof, meaning there is no one electrical command to give the roof to close.

Is this rubbish? If so is this something that I could hook up - how? I don't have any fitting instructions for the alarm. It was professionally fitted years before I got the car.

OK, OK, we're not convinced about the fuel issue; doesn't really matter, I now only use Optimax or High Octane. Either way the valves are definitly rattly. An oil change a while ago helped this, but it's still definitly not right.

What do we think about the porting and skimming??

My head gasket has gone, don't know why, but I'm assured by my reliable local VW mech that thats the case. Car has done 127000 miles. Symptom = constant overheat after 20-30 min driving. (Yes I have checked water/oil!) Water level barely drops after an overheat. Have noticed a slight drop in power, esp. at the top end. Apparently my hoses have gone hard and its a nightmare to get water cap off.

Also previous owners have run the car on standard unleaded, causing probable (or so I'm told) damage to valve guides and seats etc.

I'm wondering whether it's worth me getting the thing ported and skimmed; generally cleaned up at the same time as getting the head gasket done. Local mech says he has a machine shop who can do it. Quoted £200 for basic gasket work and a probable £400 for the whole lot. It's a 1.8 16V, how does this sound. Is there anything specific that I should be asking for to get the most for my money.

I've read on some sites that it is possible to get as much as 55bhp increase from head work! If this seemingly amazing increase is possible - how?? Surely work theis extreme would effect fuel ecconemy.

I was told (by a questionable source) that the sensor is "just behind the front bumper".

Thanks John I will give you a call when I get round to doing something about this.

I think some other people are missing the point: As far as I understand it the 16V 1.8 engine runs Kjet mechanical fuel injection which makes it much more difficult to fit an induction kit. This is different to the G60 and VR6 which have digifant injection, this also effects "chipability". This is I guess why the Stroeye kit IS £120 (190euro).

Seems likely from previous posts and my experience that it is your ignition switch. Not any easy thing to sort.

MPG on mine went crazy a while ago. Reporting higher and higher mpg untill was 99.9 (all during a several hour mway journey), but within several days of pootling about it came back down again.

My MFA constantly reports -40degrees outside temp! A knackered sensor I'm assured. Easy to replace??

Yeah that did it - ignition switch I mean. Tho I got a local mech I know to do it.

Did it. BTW bending does NOT work, cast metal like the striking breaks when forced as I found. But once broken I was able to re-join the pin by drilling and bolting the two halves in the corrado position. Fairly easy but not just bolt on - some fabrication required.

I seem to be getting conflicting advice here. Is the Stroeve induction kit worth its seemingly massive £120? Or will I be risking a performance decrease? Is the k&n panel and drilled airbox the more powerful option? Obviously both have pros and cons but what would be a final educated recommendation? :?

On the Stroeve website next on the info for the 1.8 16V it says 190BHP. Surely they are not saying that their induction kit will increase power that much are they? It must be a missprint. Or is it???

OH my god!!! NONONONONO....... :shock: Alright?

Thanks, very reasuring to hear that its nice and easy. I'm sure I'll find out when I start taking things apart, but how much bending needs doing, to which bit (obviously it's something to do with the L-shaped sticky out bit) and which way?

I'll prob give it a go on Sun.

Well went to breakers got new dizzy for £40 (exchange) not to bad thinks I, got it home - fitted. NO DIFFERENT!! Thanks RAC. BUT, my freindy local mech said "sounds more like ignition switch". RAC out again - "looks like its your ignition switch"!!!! Well to his credit he got it going so now its at the garage having someone reliable look at it.

Cool! Can't find a number for eurotek, do you have one?

How does their kit around the inherant problem of induction kits not working on k-jet?

I've heard it is possible to de-lock the doors on Cs by replacing the handles with rear passat handles. So whilst at the breakers this am got some passat handles for £10ea - bargin I reacon. But, how do I fit them? I've had the existing handles part way off to strengthen the mountings involving card removal.

Anyone done this or know how it should be done?

I have the exact same alloys in 17" on my 16v 1990 burgandy C. I love them. Occasionally I think I might like bigger ones. Let me know how it goes.

Just in case anyone is reading this. The other morning I went to start the car and it wouldn't start at all. Juat as before the starter turned fine but now there was no hint of firing at all. I tried many times untill the battery seemed to be getting tired at which point I gave up and arranged for the RAC to come out that pm. The bloke played arround and had me try and start it sevaral times. Untill he declared that it was the distributor, and as it was Sat pm I was stuffed till Mon. Apparently it was "cracking" upon intial key turn and when stopping but nothing else. It seems odd to me that the distributor could have failed suddenly when before it was running totally fine once started.

Any thoughts?