KarlosG60

Do you mean something like this: I will check it, but I don't think so. This car is not in best shape conditions but previous owners they didn't modify too much. The only mod I found related to electric was a old Gemini alarm, that was installed not very well and I removed it and fixed Z1 wire (that one gives power to ECU I think).

Correct. Voltimeter in outer pins of hall sender connector. Key turn on. Voltage went from ~5V to ~10.2V. Obtaining spark only when 10V was stable (distributor out of the engine and turning by hand)

A little update since April... My bad. I did this with distributor out of its hole and turning it by hand with contact on and voltimeter pinned in outer terminals of connector. Moving/wiggling wires, voltage drops and go up between 5V - 10.20V. Under 10V, no spark is audible or visible. With 10.20V, spark is visible and audible (I listened sparks inside cylinders and the other spark plug was outside, where I saw it working). I have a video, not in English, but maybe it's useful. I will upload it to YT. So, at this point I don't know how to proceed. I'm thinking about talking with my workshop and let them the car to replace all wiring (I don't know if they do so or send it all wires to an specialist), not only faulty one. Because if there is broken wire, I think there will be more broken wires in the future. Second option it's to invest hours and who knows when and how this will end.

Also, the ignition coil it's new and it's working.

Thanks for writing. Yes I have updates. Sometimes the hall sender receices 10v and sometimes 5v or less. One of this times I got 10v, I try to run the engine and it works. So I started checking wires and so, and sometimes I move the group of wires,I clearly listen a few things in the car, like doors, injectors and hall. So the next step will be search for a broken wire.

Any thoughs? I think I will try buying an used complete distributor and connect the hall sender and try again if I got spark. Cold you tell me what cars of Group VAG can I look for this used Hall sender? Maybe I can search for 90s Seat Toledo or something? Thank you guys.

Hi everyone, I've been struggling with this issue on the last month with no clue about what is wrong. Some day, after parking the car, doesn't run anymore. It got some problems before: bad idle, very loud explosions at 3000RPM... So when it didn't run up anymore, I start checking ignition system, fuel system, relays... Finally replace ignition coil because didn't see spark on it with old one but it doesn't solve the issue. The last day I worked on the car I almost get it run, because (like I said at the title thread) after grounded the inner pin of the Hall sender connector I got spark on four spark plugs when I ground them and turn key to ignition. So I tried to run engine and I almost get it because sound clearly like a engine run, but then is gone again. I grounded again the hall inner pin, because seems to me like this was the "thing" that did the trick, but doesn't work, again I haven't spark at spark plugs. At this point I'm a little bit confused. I suspect on: - Hall sender (got 10.8V on outer pins, so I don't know) - Bad ECU ground (How can I check it?) - Bad wiring. Some wires are tight because the age. This is my list of checkings I've been doing for last month. Please, feel completely free to correct me if I'm doing something wrong or my English makes you hurt. Check goal How to Bentley Expected value / Result Your value Good? What to do IGNITION COIL Primary resistance Resistance between 1 green and 15 black with Multimeter on 200 ohms scale. 28.2 0.5 to 0.8 ohms Y Secondary resistance Resitance between 15 (+) and 4 (wire) with Multimeter on 20K scale 28.2 2400 to 3500 3.6 kohms Y ECU signal to coil LED to 30 (+) and black wire of the coil (terminal 15) LED should be shrink Y Simulate coil spark 1) Positive (15) of the ignition coil direct to (+) battery. 2) Wire from ground to terminal 4 of the ignition coil with a gap of 1-2mm between them. 3) Wire to terminal 1 (-) 4) Quickly touch battery negative with the wire from terminal 1 (-) Spark must be visible at ignition coil terminal 4. Y ECU sends pulses to coil LED into 1 and 15. Start engine. LED should be flicker 28.9 LED flicker R Green wire has continuity Continuity between green wire (1) to the coil and pin 25 of the ECU Continuity exists Y 12V to the coil LED to terminal 15 and battery (+) LED light up Y 12V between black and green wrires Voltimeter to green and black wires. Ignition and starter. 12V??? 11.8V and ~10V R 12V at G1/4 I don't know. Is necessary this check? Continuity at G1/4 I don't know. Is necessary this check? SPARK PLUGS and SPARK PLUG WIRES Spark plugs are good Check resistance between opposite sides 5kohms to 15kohms Spark plug 1: Spark plug 2: Spark plug 3: Spark plug 4: Spark plugs wires are good Spark exists 1) Pull out fuel pump relay. 2) Ground the side of the plug to good ground. 3) Starter Spark should be visible Left to right from the front of the engine FIRST TRY AFTER GROUNDING INNER PIN OF THE HALL SENDER AND GETING SPARK AT IGNITION COIL PLUG Spark 1: OK Spark 2: OK Spark 3: OK Spark 4: OK After getting spark at 4 spark plugs, the engine did a little sound of run up, but quickly gone. Check again 4 spark plugs and there no spark. Then, I repeat the check of grounding inner pin of the Hall Sender connector and check again the spark plugs: Spark 1: Spark 2: Spark 3: NO Spark 4: R Spark at ignition coil plug 1) Green wire to negative of the ignition coil 2) Black wire (15+) to ignition coil positive (+) 3) Coil plug close to ground (1-2mm) 4) Pull out fuel pump relay 5) Start engine Spark should be visible at coil plug No spark N Check Hall Sender ECU Relay socket 12V socket 4 Check socket 4 for 12V 12V 12V Y 12V at socket 6 at ignition LED to socket 6 at ignition 12V 12V Y 12V at socket (?) (what socket is pin 87) LED to socket of the pin87 of the relay when the relay activates 12V 12V Y Continuity pin 87 Continuity between pin 87 and ECU pin 14 12V 12V Y ECU Relay (brand new from VW before the issue) Relay is working Pin 85 direct to battery (-). Pin 86 direct to (+). Does it click? If Yes: check continuity over 30 and 87 with multimeter If exists: relay it's ok Y HALL SENDER (https://youtu.be/ggIlnr5wJeI) Clean sender with contact cleaner Receives 12V Multimeter to outer terminals of harness connector 28.9 10V minimum 10.8 Y Hall sender sends signal to make spark at ignition coil 1) Disconnect injector ramp harness to avoid injectors fill cylinders with gasoline. 2) Pull out fuel pump relay also. 3) Ignition key ON 4) Ground inner pin of Hall sender connector. Everytime you ground, spark at ignition coil should be visible and injector should work https://youtu.be/95PkgSavOCo Spark at ignition coil wire Spark visible Y Replace Hall sender ECU Starter power has 12V Check ECU pin 1 for 12V at ignition 12V Fuel Pump relay has 12V Check ECU pin 3 for 12V at ignition 12V Injector power has 12V Check ECU pin 12 for 12V at ignition 12V Power from ECU Relay Check ECU pin 14 for 12 12V ISV has 12V from ECU Check ECU pin 22 for 12V at ignition 12V Ignition Coil has 12V from ECU Check ECU pin 25 for 12V ECU is good Use other ECU you know is working Engine start or exists spark at spark plugs ECU is good https://electrouniversity.com/how-to-test-ecu-with-multimeter/#how-to-know-if-an-ecu-is-bad ECU Fuse if not broken ECU Fuse. ECU components are good Open the ECU and look for fried components Z1 wire is good I merged this wire in the past, when I removed the old Gemini Alarm. Someone cut very close to the hole, and was very tough to solder here. Maybe is broken again. 12V and continuity ECU and Full throttle switches 24-140-1 ISV pin 3 get to ECU Check ISV pin 3 and ECU pin 14 for continuity Continuity Y OTHERS Fuel to the ramp Y Pressure at switch pressure 3.5 bar Ignition ON Y Alternator voltage regulator Point distributor to corresponding cylinders Cylinder compression 1) Throttle plates completely open 2) Ignition coil lead removed from distributor and connected to ground 3) Check compression following instructions 15.4 New: 8-12 bar (116-174 psi) Wear limit: 6 bar (87 psi) Blue temp. sensor resistance Check resistance when engine it's cold 2300 - 3000 ohms 2.45kOhm Y Water in the fuel. Take a fuel sample No water Injectors spraying sufficient fuel or not Use brake cleaner / contact cleaner to spray inside throtlle body. One person inside the car to turn on ignition key. 1) Dismount throttle body IC hose 2) Person inside the car, turn on ignition pressing gas pedal a quarter 3) Spray inside the throttle body If runs: - Injectors are not spraying sufficente quantity of fuel. If not: - Check spark again Car engine run Engine ground good Grounds: - From throttlebody to ignition coil - Side of the crankshaft. With the water intake. Here are two. - Gearbox - To engine bonet - Under the battery How to: - Look for moho - If are flexible or too tight - Corroded Replace every ground that looks or works badly. As you see, I got a majority of good results. Some are marked with "R", because I will repeat them to be sure I am doing well. The one that was not good is "Spark at ignition coil" checking, from here then I did the other checking: "Hall sender sends signal to make spark at ignition coil". I saw clearly a spark at ignition coil every time I ground, then I checked the spark plugs and I got spark on every of them, but the engine won't start. Almost did it because sounds LIKE an engine run, but don't. From that point, I never get spark at spark plugs anymore. P.S: If you think the table I paste it here is too much, I can share the link to it. Excuse in advance if it is.

Bentley says that numerical value it's for "Test sum of programmed bytes" and has no importance for the check.

@g0ldf1ng3r Yes, I got the Bentley, I didn't see anything about. The gauge cluster was replaced for another (same reference). There are something is needed to do before install it? If is yes, I did nothing. Thank you.

Hello everyone, I'm struggling again with my G60. Everytime I fix or replace something, something else decides to break. Basically I got very very poor idle now in winter, when months ago was fine, or at least not that bad. Also, has got very big (I mean, VERY BIG) explosions when let off gas between gears. I'm searching where the issue came and is not the main goal of the thread, but today, looking for air leakings, I saw, in the MFA Test/Hide Mode, CError in position 1. What does it mean? What is the common value to see there? Maybe it's indicating there is an error at the ECU or at some point of the car?

Finally can get a good fuel hose and replace both: Thank you guys for your help. Let's keep working on bring my G60 to the streets again. Next step: fix ABS light.

Nice work out here, thou. Thank you guys for the pictures. They will be useful. I will bought the hose directly to VW, because they has stock and I can return to the job this week.

The tank was removed. If don't, you can't access to these lines. So no danger at all (if I finally use a dremel).

Nice @Bauhaus Is just the solution I've been thinking today.

Ok, thank you. I will look around here for a local store where can I buy 1 meter like this (one of the link is too expensive shipping to Spain).

Ok, next week I will work again on that. But if you are saying that could be very hard to cut and it's relatively easy to broke interior hose, I'm thinking about to find another solution that not involves cutting the clip/collar metal. Something like that: Do you think it can obstruct the fuel flow or make the pressure go high? Yes, of course. It's from Heritage Reading

I have had some problems past two years related to the loss of fuel from these hoses and I have to change them to avoid repeat the problem as much as possible. How about cut the hose, not the collar metal and make a merge with the new one using some PVC/Silicone pipe or something?? Do you think is not a good solution?

And what you did with the metal collar I refer in first post?

Thanks. And how about cut here: And make a splice with the new hoses? The length of hoses is strictly necessary be 150mm and 160mm?

Hi, I'm working on fuel hoses replacement. Those ones: I have the replacement (need to cut to 150mm and 160mm): But I don't know how to remove this and after how to mount again: Could you please help me? Is necessary to broke those climps? And how about mount the new ones? I though today was going to be a profitable day but, no, as always. Thanks

I will upload some pictures to have an idea what I have.

Thats because I asked about code colors, to focus only in one and most 'easy' to find.

I have almost all the parts (took me yesrs collecting them). But my seats and panels are different colors, so Inwould like to complete the interior with the right ones (used, of course)

Thanks. But I dont want to dye, I want to buy original parts. Use a dye maybe, but not main objective because is not the same result.