KarlosG60

Sorry to rescue the thread. What I need to search in that page? My Corrado doesn't came with beige interior. It's a think I start to do years ago, because I like Tornado Red Corrado combinated with beige interior. I have two or three beige colors. Which of them is most affordable to complete?

Yes you can see fuel lines are not good. They lose fuel and fill all arpund fuel. Dangerous. Will be replaced. Thanks.

You can see a lot of fuel. The fuel trims will be replaced or fixed.

Sure. The rubber of R/Y is unplugged for checkings. Will be fixed and protected as other wires.

I don't know what caused ECU blown, because after I did checkings, I saw a lot of possible issues (crappy car alarm installation, dirty grounds or bad grounds, fuel loss...). But the car stops in uphill street, where the fuel that remains near the fuel pump connector, I think it made contact with connector, ground, etc. I don't know if it can blown a ECU, but there was a lot of fuel near the connector when the car stops.

It begans with the new fuel pump. I think it burns gauge cluster and fuel pump relay for some short, because the fuel pump hoses lose fuel. Then, one day after replace relay, the fuel accumulated at the top of the fuel pump touches the connector, and then burns the ECU. It's all of kind of related issues, that ends with a burned ECU. I will open, to see if is repairable. But now, the light (of the street) at the end of the garage is closest now.

At least!! It was the ECU. I just plug the 'new' ECU and fuel pump and relay works and sounds loud and clear. And the engine starts fine. Well a LOT of white smoke and smells like hell and burned oil, but it runs!!! After spending 350e... But it runs! Next step: clean the alarm system, throw out the car and check and repair wires Thank you so much for your help guys! 😉

I will check that, thanks. The engine starts fine without any trouble when I bypass the fuel pump. I don't think there will be any bad fuse, but I will check that too, who knows. Thanks

Checking wires in engine bay, I saw the ignition coil maybe missing some wires: Ignition coil, spark plugs and spark plug wires are new (well, they got a lot of years -10 maybe-, but less than 1000 kms 😅)

Hi, I just purchased an used ECU + Complete CE2 wiring. Next week will arrive and I will check. It's reference is 037 906 022 CP BTW, I did few more checkings today. Let's lists them: 11/12/2021 • Check Hall Sender Unit, Voltage supply. (Bentley 28.9) ✅ • Check Hall Sender function. (Bentley 28.10) ✅ • Check connectivity from M/02 (R/Y) to R/Y from fuel pump connector ✅ • RPM needle moves when crancking? NO. But the checkings to the Hall sensor was good. I said previously the needle moves, but it don't. I don't think this is a good checking, but... • Check if ECU got voltage directly from battery. ECU pin 14 to positive ( + ). Pin 13 to ground ( - ). Pin 3 to LED Tester and LED tester to positive ( + ). LED light should be shrink. If not, ECU is not receiving voltage. ❌

Thank you. Purchase used ECU it's an option if repair mine it's too expensive. Will check few more things to find my problem and I will decide what to do (burn it all, I supose).

Thanks, I will check both. Now I am start to looking for a used ECU. I don't know if mine is bad, but... My ECU number is 037 906 022 DP, will any other reference, like 037 906 022 CP, works or it needs recalibration?

Ok, added to my list, but if I can run the engine when I bypass the fuel relay, this sensors doesn't matter if they broken or there are short in these sensors? Yes, I have VCDS for my other car (Golf TSi 2010).

Yes, this relay was replaced long time ago by new one from Hella. 8/12/2021 - Did few more checkings • Live wire from Fuel pump relay socket 4 (pin 87) to battery +. Fuel pump should be audible and injector rail too ✅ • Live wire from pin 85 relay to ground, ignition to ON. Relay and fuel pump should be work ✅ • Live wire from pin 3 ECU to ground. Ignition to ON. Relay & FP should be work ✅ • Check voltage to Pin 1 ECU with ignition to ON. Should be give you around 12V. If yes, check voltage to Pin 14 with ignition ON and crancking engine. Should be give you around 12V also. ✅ • Set multimeter on 20V. Put wires on pins 14 & 13 of ECU connector. Ignition key ON. Should give you 12V approximately. ✅ • Ground ECU wires. Set multimeter on continuity. Put wires on pins 13 & 19. Should exist continuity. ✅ • Ground ECU wires. Check continuity between pin 13 and battery negative ( - ). ✅ • Ground ECU wires. Check continuity between pin 19 and battery negative ( - ). ✅ • Pull out relay. LED tester between socket 2 & 3 (86-85 of relay). Live wire from 87 fuel pump relay to battery postivie ( + ). Fuel pump should work. Turn ON engine. LED tester should light up. If not, possible ECU fail. ❌ PENDING: • Check for open circuit in wiring to ECU using wiring diagrams • Pin 86 must be go to switched live wire feed • Check if Pin 5 of G1 is NOT ground • Live wire to Pin 85 from Pin 3 ECU to check if relay works • Repeat checking G1 and G2 with fuel pump relay pin sockets • Search for a R/Y wire to M/02 • Find wires of socket 2 and 3 (85 and 86) at fuse relay box and check • ECU pin 14 to positive ( + ). Pin 13 to ground ( - ). Pin 3 to LED Tester and to positive ( + ). LED light should be light up. -------------------------------------------------- All directions points to ECU failure if I am right. So, at this point what I can do. Open up my ECU and see something I don't know to look at? Purchase used ECU? Send to repairing mine? P.S: Again, sorry for the 5yo draws.

Afterrun fuel pump relay maybe?

I'm thinking about if it would be a waste of money to replace this fuel pump relay to new one? To discard things... 🙄 Ref. 357 906 363

The connectivity between 86 and G1/05 was very poor. But I don't know if I did well. I will check again today and come here with the result.

Forgot to upload this draw at the end of "G1 connectivity checks:"

Forget my last message. I am going to try to put my problems in order, to be very clear about what I am looking at and what I find. I uploaded some very poor draws made in Windows Paint. I'm under Linux right now and I don't know which program to use that is as easy as paint, so I use old Paint version which is online. So, you are free to make some laughs 5/12/2021 Checked continuity between ECU pin 3 and relay 85 (if I remember well, it's socket number 2 on relay fuse box). Continuity It's OK: So, ECU wire is OK, right? No shorts. Next, I repeated the Bentleys checking called Fuel Pump Relay, Checking (page 20.12) that I made days ago: FUEL PUMP RELAY, CHECKING Fuse 18 OK? Yes (It has also been replaced by a new one) LED tester between terminal 6 and ground ( - ). Light up? YES LED tester between terminal 2 and ground ( - ). Light up? YES LED tester between terminal 6 and terminal 4. Light up? YES So I continue to next step. Turn ignition OFF. LED tester between terminal 2 and terminal 3. Switch ignition ON. LED light up for 1 second? NO, LED is not lighting up. Bentley's at this point say "Check for open circuit in wiring to control unit using wiring diagram". I only made a checking with my eyes, searching for some wire short. I don't see any short. Where I need to start to looking at? Which wiring diagrams I need to look at? Remember that I have a Gemini alarm involved but it shouldn't be bothering anymore, since the red-yellow wire from the Z1 connector and which is supposedly the injection one (if I'm not wrong), has been repaired (talked about in previous comments in this thread). --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- After following the Bentley's I decided to search for connectivity between the relay fuel pump and wires from connector G1. Using this page: http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/CE2.html I use my multimeter to search for connectivity. But if you look at that page, the G1 colors are (last column): G1 Engine Compartment/Management, Right Side White G1/01 - F/2 - G1/02 Outside Air Temp Sender Ground Gauge Cluster (MFA) Brown/White G1/03 ECU- Fuel Pump Relay Turn-On (gas), Engine Temp Sender (Pre-heat, diesel), thermoswitch for preheat (carb) Fuel Pump Relay Power Red/Yellow (gas), Blue/White (diesel) G1/04 Ignition Coil Pin 15 (Digifant and CIS-E), Motronic ECU Pin 14 and coil power stage Pin 1(Motronic), Altitude Correction and Fuel Cut-Off Valves (diesel) Main Fusebox Start/Run Power Black (gas), Red/Black and Black/Red (diesel), Violet/White (carb) G1/05 Ground on Cylinder Head Ground (for gauges/warning lights) Brown/White G1/06 Motronic ECU Pin 34, Vehicle Speed Sensor Main Fusebox Ground Brown/Red G1/07 Overrun Cutoff Valve, G60 Difigant ECU Power Overrun Cutoff Relay, ECU Relay Brown/White (Carb only) or Black/White (G60 only) G1/08 Heated Oxygen Sensor Power Fuel Pump Relay Output, Fuse 18 Red/White G1/09 MIL Lamp from ECU (TDI) Gauge Cluster MIL Light Yellow/White G1/10 Digifant/Digijet ECU Power, Injector Power (1989 only), ISV Power (G60 only) Digifant ECU Relay Output Black/Yellow G1/11 Vehicle Speed Sensor Gauge Cluster White/Blue G1/12 Ignition Coil Pin 1 (all Mk2, most others '90 only), ECU tach signal (all 91+ except Mk2) Tachometer Red/Black (coil) or Green/Black (ECU) And this is my G1 connector: - Pin 1, empty - Pin 3, blue-yellow - Pin 5, brown (talk about later). Not coincidence (is full brown) but works as ground too. - Pin 7, empty - Pin 9, empty - Pin 11, white-blue. This is the same colors. - Pin 2, grey-brown. - Pin 4, two black wires? - Pin 6, brown - Pin 8, red-yellow - Pin 10, black-yellow - Pin 12, green-yellow You can see that my G1 colors is not full coincidence with the G1 colors table of that page, but I think this don't mean that my failure is here because I used the car everyday years ago and nothing about the alarm or the fuel pump was a trouble. G1 connectivity checks: G1/05 with relay 86 (socket #2 I think). Very poor connectivity. My multimeter only makes single and low "bip" at the time I prick with the tip. I have a video if you think you need to watch and listen. G1/05 with relay socket #1. Connectivity OK. And that's all the work for today. I don't know how to continue or what to check, so I stopped before I burn in flames my Corrado with the last fuel litres it has. Thank you guys

@Dox Yes, tacho works when cranking. Ok, little update. The pin 85 of the relay is not receiving signal. So, what I needto check? Maybe is ECU dead?

Joined. Check that exists connectivity on both sides. The issue is not solved yet. Fuel bomb not working. I made a lot of checks (but i am completely .ignorant with car electrics) and I cant find the problem. I removed many alarm wires. At this point I think the Gemini alarm is not interfering with the car, so the problem should be another thing.

Seems the same size. The colours on both sides are the same red yellow. Yes I got bentley

Hi guys, I continue working on that issue. I focused finding the main issue but also disarming and removing the shit alarma installation. And I hace a question about this red/yellow wire, that was shorted to fit the alarm... It is the red/yellow with a grey cable in it. What is and where it goes? Fuel bomb 30B yellow connector? It is shorted too, and the grey came from here. But I dont know if will be safe to repair the two sides and merge each other.

Sorry, can't edit. I didn't think I shouldn't upload it.

IDK if the alarm got immobiliser, because at yet, I can't find any wiring diagram of it, only some other Gemini alarms. I will check anyway. Ah, I forgot, there are some pics of that shit installation.