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fendervg

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Posts posted by fendervg


  1. 32 minutes ago, Keyo said:

    Some of the parts look so expensive- one quote I will never forget as I have been sniffing round the audi pages for a while as a luker was " Audi Tradition simply dont want us to own them " . 

    Yeah, they don't seem to care that the cars that got them to where they are today were the Type 81/85/89 cars - the Ur Quattro, Coupe and 80/90/100s. and the Group B rally era. They have a few in storage that they can roll out for press events and don't give a toss about enthusiasts trying to restore or keep these models on the road. That's they way it was in 2003  when I bought mine, and I hear it's not much better, if even worse, today.


  2. 16 minutes ago, Keyo said:

    This car Ive seen a couple of times- it realyy is a hell of a cool car- looked at t 

     

    Was yours the 5 cylinder 7A - think they were about 178 bhp - they did another 2.2 which was about 148 bhp I think. 

    KV engine code - naturally aspirated inline 5, 2226cc as far as I remember. Not the fasted but still 0-60 near enough 8 secs, and with the quattro drivetrain it was always quick off the line and sure footed in the corners! The I5 engines were silky smooth, with oodles of torque - an absolute pleasure to drive, whether fast or cruising - I've never driven any other car where I like the engine as much.


  3. Ha ha - on the last page you need to squint to make out the winner at the bottom! Although you can figure it out from the rest - the only thing I thought is that they had made their mind up already based on the beginning requirements and had picked some cars that were obviously not going to fit the bill. There's a clear preference for open-top two seaters expressed, and they would easily have found a few more in that category - if the Mazda had been in it it would have won.


  4. IF the Mk3 pump has the same swirl pot mountings and location for the fuel level sender, it should work.

    I think the cracking problems are not so much poor quality (not generally an issue with VDO) but the result of age (these might well be 20 years old), poor storage and bad handling in transit and warehouses. It definitely means you should check them over carefully after receiving one. I don't think the swirl pot would disentigrate anyway.


  5. 10 hours ago, twinbeltg60 said:

    Hmmm...don't know how I got that mixed up, i looked on the JP Classic Site, but hey ho, I sit corrected !

    Good luck to anyone buying any of these manufacturers pumps, its hobson's choice.

    Cheers.

     

    I think there are very few 4 bar pumps out there - nearly all sites list the 3 bar pumps as being suitable for all VR6 engines, AAA/ABV/1.8/2.9 - I've never tried it to see what happens - you could probably either change the FPR, or hope the 4 bar regulator lets the pressure build up.  It's also possible to buy individual motorsport pumps of the right output, and there are billet mounting plates available that can fit onto the grooves in the tank floor if you want to go down that route - it's a bit more expensive, but hey, the price of a new VDO that may or may not be past its sell by date isn't cheap either!


  6. 1 hour ago, ABV-VR6 said:

    That's my conclusion as well... These are old, I'm not sure if VDO made them recently either... 

    With your story, it confirms it. The nozzle and the screw areas are classics breaking point. You must have been surprised and very disappointed when that happened to you... 

    I think in conclusion, I won't aim for r OEM replacement on that specific part, they didn't aged well. 

    Yeah, it was a pain when it happened as I had no pump at all - and when something like that happens, it can be hard proving that it wasn't your fault - but luckily I've been doing business with that particular parts specialist for years and several different cars, so they trusted me and were happy to replace FOC. Even when I've had dodgy parts with no return possible, they have sold me a replacement at cost.


  7. I think some of these can be new old stock that was manufactured quite a while ago - I can hardly see them making large runs of them new recently. I had one at one point where the nozzle broke clean off after test fitting a hose, not even tightened with clip or anything and had to get it replaced with another one.


  8. It's the molded on bushes that go and cause slop in the linkage - that's why I'm hoping to find a NOS one from the group buy if possible rather than second hand - the old on I have still works ok, but with a bit of play, and is likely to be at least as good as any s/h one.


  9. Looking for the long wiper linkage arm for RHD, 536955326. I have the shorter one, and I know there was a group buy on these, or a lot was bought from Classic Parts (now out of stock), so wodering if anyone has one squirrelled awaty that they'd be willing to part with - currently rebuilding the whole wiper assembly. Would also be interested in the short link rod (#2 in picture), if available.

    I think someone on the FB group said they had one, but for the life of me I can't find the post again!

    Many thanks.

    wiper_link.jpg


  10. Interesting - I've never seen the foam stops on any I've taken out, Corrado or Mk2/Mk3 over the years, must be at least hald a dozen, so I guess it must be one of the first things to degrade and fall off - it would stop that banging sound when the flap is open/closed fully. Something to remember when doing the next one


  11. You can take an interior light feed from the cigarette lighter socket or any of the dash bulbs. The glove boxlight is also permanently live with ignition on, so it depends on when you want them to come on. LEDs will usually have a small ballast or resistor pack with them, so check that this comes with your kit.


  12. Sticky backed felt from an arts/hobby supply shop was what I used as well, some others have used adhesive foil tape - but you need it to be slightly porous. It really does need to come out for you to take it apart though - buy you can leave the cables attached as you remove it and take the control dials and the heater box out as a unit, if you are worried about the cables. It will make it easier to see how it works and goes back together.

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