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fendervg

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fendervg last won the day on August 29

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About fendervg

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  1. Just get a waterproof/sealed electronics project box that will fit the relays, and then you cut a hole in the side for a special wiring grommet that is weatherproof - RS Electronics or similar should have all that. One end of the wires will need to be disconnected either way - to be honest, first loom I had I just put them in a ziploc bag beside the battery, and that worked just as well!
  2. It should click, also indicators should work if it is slightly held down. I’m not sure if the click comes from the relay or the dash cluster. I retrofitted comfort indicators with a new relay, so you get three or four blinks after pushing the stalk and letting go.
  3. What was wrong with the G60 BBS that look like they are on it? They are a lovely wheel, had a set on my Mk2. Or do you just want something similar in 16"? If it was me, for a daily driver I wouldn't bother putting fancy (more expensive if damaged) and larger (won't ride and handle as well over everyday terrain) rims on it.
  4. Looks more like someone applied a faulty configuration to their backbone routers that direct all traffic to, from and between the FB data centres. Can easily happen, have done it myself in the past on a much smaller scale! But I would have thought that they would have had some kind of out of band management access over dial-up or 4G for emergencies like this - that's what we put in afterwards. Apparently they had to actually send a team to the data centre to get access and fix it (read reboot).
  5. Haha. Agreed. For me, topran = notran, or also ran. Have been stung a few times, and would never buy again - in fairness Heritage should not be selling them, or at least give a quality indicator the way GSF used to do.
  6. Blue box - ATE written on it In white, exactly the same part and fits like a glove. I’ll try to dig it out tomorrow. I don’t think it’s that important if the parts are of equivalent quality, and ATE is used all over the car.
  7. Yeah. It was definitely old enough to be original. It’s a common enough part across the VW/Audi range, so they probably just used whatever supplier stock was available l, be it ATE, TRW or FTE. Mist of the other hydraulic components are ATE anyway.
  8. The ATE one is what I fitted, and excellent quality. Original one I took off was also ATE.
  9. Nothing like a giant BGP cock-up to take your service completely down - from looking at what info is out there, it looks as if all the routes pointing to the Zuckerberg data centers were withdrawn at the same time, also taking out their name servers as these were co-located at the same sites. Nice.
  10. Definitely slave - you might not see any leakage if it's not fully blown as the fluid will be inside the boot - sometimes a quick bleed of the slave, followed by the master (can be done with just gravity) will sort it for a while as a temporary repair, but the slave cylinder is not too dear and and a handy enough job compared to most others on the Corrado.
  11. That did not come from Kurzy. It's got spade connectors, so won't connect directly onto the lamp housing socket, the spade connectors will go on to the terminals in the socket instead.So, the two ring terminals will be + and - on the battery, end of loom to the spades on your headlights, and then you take one of your existing plugs from the OEM loom and hook the new loom on there, this is what signals the relay to trip. That looks like a two relay one, so you probably have one for each side. To be honest it doesn't look great quality in the pictures, so if I were you I'd just arrange to buy a new one. Kurzy on here did a group buy deal not long ago, or another member on here might have a decent one for sale. I'll take a look and see what I have and get some photos up for comparison. The OEM plug sockets are really a must, and very easy to buy both the male and the female ones now.
  12. Just to update this - in the end I went for an Optimate 3 unit with the fly-lead connector with ring terminals directly attached to the battery (about 50cm long) and an extension lead to pass it out the front window of my house - works a treat, and does a gentle charge-up and maintenance cycle after that. I have much more powerful chargers for when a battery is out of the car that I can use indoors, but this is just to make sure it doesn't go flat over the course of several weeks (I know of course that it's a heinous crime not to sue your Corrado at least once a week! I believe the warrant is in the post.) They also do more powerful units, but this one suited me as I don't need dual setting CAN bus stuff etc. I've ordered a longer fly-lead (100cm) and the plan is to route that from the battery to the tow-eye cover on the passenger side. In the end, after lots of looking on-line and dealing with orders returned by customs, I found them at a motor bike shop around the corner from where one of my kids does gymnastics - most other places were out of stock. A great stroke of luck, and maybe worth remembering as these things were originally designed for bikes, so hence a bike shop being a good place to find them. I wasn't impressed with anything I saw in Halfrauds, and the bonus was that the above setup was much cheaper than on-line, even without the postage.
  13. Yeah, those trays are rarely ever seen on a car any more as they will all have fallen victim to kerbs and speed ramps and multi storeys. I have a set for the VR I bought a few years back but haven't got around to fitting them yet - would make absolutely no sense with a 90mm splitter, maybe with a 70 or 50mm, as the front lip of the tray/air guide sits at the same height as the edge of the splitter.
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