Jump to content

fendervg

Subscriber
  • Content Count

    2,489
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    4

fendervg last won the day on April 29

fendervg had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

5 Neutral

1 Follower

About fendervg

  • Rank
    CF Nutter

Converted

  • Location
    Dublin, IE

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Are these fittings not for the black plastic fuel filter holder on the underside of the car ( only fitted on some models)? The swirl pot sits inside the tank and slots into a bayonet type mount on the tank floor, or so I thought.
  2. That's what I had it pegged as - there should be a number of metal clips, maybe 4 or 5 that help hold them together and grip the upper lip of the door card - no. 9 in the parts diagram above.
  3. That'll be the date of the paint inspection in German "Inspektion Lackierung" - so not necessarily the day the car was finished, but close.
  4. Recaros look great keyo - glad you found a set after hunting for a while. Sadly I don't have the budget for some at the moment, but would love some grey ones.
  5. I think they may be off an A4, but probably found on lots of other like Skoda/Seat.
  6. That looks nice - are they double or single pin? I make the part# out as 8D0947561, it looks like there might be a double contact version ending in A. Just musing because the double ones are handy for alarm systems, lights on buzzer etc.
  7. fendervg

    fuel pump

    Bosch/VDO/Siemens and Pierburg are all good makes - after that you are into buyer beware territory and cheap Chinese copies. To be honest, 100-200 for a quality pump would be normal and there's nothing worse than a fuel pump failure while driving. The VR6 VDO pump can cost as much as 400 squids. Is your 16V pump set up a lift pump in the tank and a main pump underneath? I'd expect to pay about 100 or so for a decent lift pump.
  8. What you need is someone who has experience with the G charged engines - a lot of places over here won't deal with them any more. Or another G60 owner who could help out. I think there are a few common issues that cuase rough running, and once they are sorted should be ok - the guts of the engine are the basic 8v block design after all, and they are practically bulletproof.
  9. Electrical stuff can all be fixed - usually just a bad earth or short/broken wire. Just takes time and patience. The brakes sound like the rear callipers have seized, which is a common problem, and possibly your servo assist is not working, usually and air leak in the vacuum system. I guess it comes down to how much your budget for a new car is and if you have any emotional attachment to this one - overall it just sounds like any project that has been left sitting for a while. Any other Corrado will probably still need a lot of things sorting unless you pay top dollar. G60s are now becoming very rare and it would be shame to let one go to the great scrapyard in the sky.
  10. As far as I know he still makes them - it's one of the items on my list. Could well be interested in your old one if you are selling - let me know. The shifter end is just one part of the equation, you can also get a lot of wear in the plastic parts and bushings at the gearbox side. The cables themselves don't really wear or stretch - it's just the end clips that break, and it's possible to get billet replacements for these.
  11. This is where I got some of my bushings and rebuild kit parts - they look to be good quality - they also used to do a short shifter for the 02A, but not anymore.
  12. I have some, but haven't fitted them yet, and Keyo has got some as well. We'll see what the results is - the OEM ones are rubber on the outside, but the inside is a shouldered metal insert - so not sure how much this helps with transmission as there is still metal to metal contact.
  13. Ah ok - I think it might be the same part as 16v Golf Mk3, so should be easy enough to find, but someone else on here with the same setup should be able to confirm. Usually with the sender it's either the wiring back to the dash has become damaged or the tracks on resistor have become damaged. I think you should get 12v or 5v down one of the wires with the ignition on, and then that passes through the track for the float and back to the gauge.
  14. Did you test the wiring? You should get a variable resistance across the two wires as you move the float.
  15. Ouch - best of luck with your search - if you find one from a breaker I'd say go and offer to take it out yourself to make sure nothing breaks.
×
×
  • Create New...