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fendervg last won the day on April 13

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About fendervg

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  1. fendervg

    Stereo connectors

    As above, they are just standard 2-plug ISO connectors - you can pick these up loose wiring tails easily at any motor factors, electronics place or dare I say Halfrauds - you won''t be using all the pins on the red one, but the other one will have 8 pins for your speakers.
  2. This should have all the info. It was the same for Mk2 Golfs and cars of the era that had the same matrix type fitted. This doc has all the instructions and part numbers. I don' t think there should be any gurgling without the valve fitted - that was how the cars would have left the factory anyway - I'd say there might still be some air in the system somewhere, or also it could be the auxiliary electric water pump. recall-matrix.pdf
  3. Is that where the washer jet used to be? Looks like it might have been leaking.........I can't actually remember what was there on my Mk2
  4. Love the early steering wheel!
  5. AFAIK the valve is there to to stop the heater matrix rupturing if there is a cooling issue or overheating, a safety/CYA thing as front passengers would get scalded. If the cooling system is up to scratch and maintaining temperatures within tolerances it won't be strictly necessary. The gurgling sounds like there is still air trapped in the system, so the best way is to make sure that it is bled out when refilling - I tend to refill first, leave the reservoir cap off and start the engine and let it warm up, squeezing the top and bottom rad hoses every once in a while - when the stat opens it will take a big gulp, so you'll need to top up quickly, check the hoses again, then put the cap on, go for a drive, let it settle and top up as needed to get the correct level. The coolant is pressurised when hot, so be very careful when opening the cap - let it sit for a while.
  6. Lots of pics here if you scroll down a bit: https://www.google.com/search?q=schrick+vgi+corrado&tbm=isch&ved=2ahUKEwjGgtG7iODxAhXWSEEAHRfxDOQQ2-cCegQIABAA&oq=schrick+vgi+corrado&gs_lcp=CgNpbWcQAzoECAAQHlDhMliaTGDQTWgAcAB4AIABYYgBzgiSAQIxNZgBAKABAaoBC2d3cy13aXotaW1nwAEB&sclient=img&ei=gontYMa5AdaRhbIPl-KzoA4&bih=581&biw=1356&client=firefox-b-d Looks like most seem to run them underneath, front and back rows, and then out to the side. Not sure if you would need slightly shorter than standard to keep it all neat? This is why I'd prefer a VSR over a Shrick if my dreams ever came true - kind of a style over substance thing, as I do know the Shrick delivers a more bang for your buck 😉
  7. Come to Ireland and fix all my bodywork and rust issues? 😉
  8. In this context, “Please do not caress” is probably a better translation!
  9. From vague memory it would have been a white LED, 2.1V and a 500 ohm resistor. I remember I measured the current etc. at the time with a friend who had LEDs and resistors handy. You could always measure the signal coming in, but I'm pretty sure it was 12V and there are lots of sites that let you work out what kind of inline resistor you would need , such as https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/tools/led-resistor-calculator/ I think you can also now get ready to solder LEDs that have a resistor built in. If you don't want to go down the LED route, any electronics shop should have 12v filament bulb, something like this should work: https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/incandescent-light-bulbs/0105231/ Maybe an LED is better as it won't blow and runs cooler, but I guess the idea with the warning light is that it's only supposed to come on for a couple of seconds and then stay out, although that's almost never the case in a Corrado in my experience!
  10. Lots of little balls of rocking horse poop on the driveway with NLA part numbers all over them......[emoji41]
  11. How did you test the pumps? I usually just hook up a leisure battery direct to the terminals at the pump, with a toggle switch on the positive wire. Did you inject power directly at the relay block?
  12. Lovely car - well wear and best of luck with it! I have a niggling suspicion that the seats were what tipped the balance!
  13. All we've got in Ireland for years is bog standard 95 octane - never had any issues with it in over 10 years and no damage to the fuel pump mounts (that might have been the result of some additive or cleaner - maybe some one put some JET-1 in there?). All VW engines from the Mk2 Digifant onwards will seem to run fine on 95 or 98 and the ECU will adjust to suit it as long as the knock sensors are working - you just might not get as much power, and there's no denying that these engines prefer to drink high octane.
  14. You can lift and press the inner trim panel with the sunroof closed, and then rotate it 90 degrees to slide out towards the front and remove. He was just showing off with the tool - it makes it definitely easier, but is not strictly necessary. A good carpenter could probably make one very handily, but it will be one of those special tools that will only ever be used once or twice - I guess maybe more considering how often the sunroofs break lol:
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