Aus

just to add, having sat for a couple of hours, seems to be going into gear slightly easir (still hard though) and once moving, the car runs fine altho changing gear needs care and is def tougher than usual

I know I'm chancing my arm but ... my wife has a Passat estate, 1.8L petrol engine. She went through a mega puddle this morning and said that it staterd coughing immediately afterwards, started pulling erratically so she stopped. It started fine but difficult to get into gear and there's a rattle from the clutch once in gear. It still starts and idles fine, tricky to get into gear and seems to shudder once in gear and trying to pull away. Any clues? Could the water have washed the clutch and it starting to seize? Many thanks!

Hi - have a '94 VR6 with a Laserline 992T immobiliser (installed 1994). Am due to go away in the car for a few days but both immobilser keys (3 pins) have been playing up/not easily switching the immobiliser off. Bit worried that one day they'll not switch the immobiliser off at all! How can I disconnect the immobiliser safely? Cheers

Mine's still running spot on (not wanting to speak too soon though!) Thanks for all the help, esp kevhaywire's comprehensive list! Cheers

I had the same problem - seems adjusting the "little pot thing that the throttle maechanism rests on when you come off the throttle could be to blame (not the best explaination!) - Timo" did the trick for me! " min job and no cost!

For what it's worth - took the MAF off, cleaned the connection box and WD40'd it (altho it looked fine) and adjusted the white plastic piston, and it was perfect on a short run today. Albeit, I'm slowly learning that this problem seems to come and go of its own accord!

"couple of hours" and some! But reassuring that some of you much more experienced chaps have had similar challenges!

thanks kevhaywire - given me a few ideas for the weekend!

thanks - looks all clean - any easy way to test it's working OK?

yep - it's a '94 VR6

and after searching on here for a bit, I saw a thought from Kevhaywire: "Someone mentioned to me once that odd stalling like this could be a brake servo on it's way out or leaking. They take too much air as you're pulling up to a junction and the ISV struggles. Don't know how feasible that is, but it sounded good anyway, LOL! " I reckon my stalling happens more often under braking than not, and I occasionally get my abs light coming on (always goes away after stopping and re-starting) - would that tie in with Kev's thought?

Got a prob - when coasting to a stop it often (but not always) dies and when starting from cold, it always starts but idle hunts until warm, and if driven before warm, engine often dies. This problem is variable, was awful yesterday and has been perfect today! I gather this is not an uncommon problem, but so far have: - replaced blue temp sensor - replaced ecu relay (this seemed to help, but after a few drives, returned to poor form) - garage replaced coil pack and leads at huge cost! - replaced battery (this seemed to help, but after a few drives, returned to poor form) - cleaned ISV (this seemed to help, but after a few drives, returned to poor form) Gather checking the MAF would be worthwhile - where is it? And how to check it's OK? Getting a vag-com done locally seem v expensive (VW say min 3hrs at £70 per hour!). Many thanks (and thanks for all the advice so far)

local VW dealership said £70 per hour, and assume min 3 hours for vag-com check!!! local independent vw specialist was happy to chat through, but said he felt the vag-com wouldn't help diagnose in this instance - suggested I left the car with him for a day. Either way, looks pricey and neither seemed confident (nor as knowledgeable as the forum!)

Nope - my local garage insisted they'd do this, charged a fortune and then eventually admitted they don't have one!

I've had a couple of posts on this problem and thanks for the help/replies to date! Got a '94 VR6, 70K miles. Running well except when coasting to a stop it often dies and when starting from cold, it always starts but idle hunts until warm, and if driven before warm, engine often dies. I gather this is not an uncommon problem, but so far have: - replaced blue temp sensor - replaced ecu relay (this seemed to help, but after a few drives, returned to poor form) - replaced coul pack and leads - replaced battery (this seemed to help, but after a few drives, returned to poor form) - cleanedx ISV (this seemed to help, but after a few drives, returned to poor form) Could it be the fuel pump? Is there an easy check to do on this? It's really bugging me now - any help will be much appreciated!

not sure I want to be too confident yet but it's all looking good so far ... fingers crossed!

After some good advice (thanks guys) I replaced the ECU relay (cost £11) earlier this week and the signs are promising of the problems gone away ... so thanks for the help and versus what the garage wanted to do, massively massively cheaper and a lot more rewarding!

After some good advice (thanks guys) I replaced the ECU relay (cost £11) earlier this week and the signs are promising of the problems gone away ... so thanks for the help and versus what the garage wanted to do, massively massively cheaper and a lot more rewarding!

Just to follow up from my earlier threads, my VR6 was taking ages to start when warm, idling erratically when cold, and frequently the engine would die when coasting to a standstill. After some good advice (thanks guys) I replaced the ECU relay (cost £11) earlier this week and the signs are promising of the problems gone away ... so thanks for the help and versus what the garage wanted to do, massively massively cheaper and a lot more rewarding!

Hi ... replced the blue temp sensor to no avail (altho it all seemed much better for a few weeks and then reverted back to type!)

Thanks Chris - makes sense. Presumably I can just the plug the new ecu relay in without having to worry about resetting anything?

Hi, Further to my post yesterdayand thanks guys for your help ref engine hunting when cold, long time starting when warm and engine dying when coasting to a stop - I've checked that the ECU and fuel pump relays are firmly seated and clean (as per the fuel pump fuse). Haven't had a chance to do all the electrical test as per RW1 but both relays firmly click twice immediately on turning the ignition on. Once the engine has started, knocking the fuel pump relay doesn't affect the engine. Does this suggest the relays are OK, or am I just being hopeful!? Many thanks again!

Thanks - will go and investigate

Thanks all ... sorry, prob an idiot question but where would I find the ECU and fuel pump relays? And I assume the ISV damper is the rubber 'box' by the ISV? Thanks

Hi, have a '94 VR6, 70K miles, serviced last month but about 6 months ago this all started ... - on cold mornings, it starts immediately and then hunts between 400 and 1500 revs until warm - when warm, always starts but turns over 10-12 times before starting (used to start immediately) - when coasting to a stop, the engine often dies - when it's warm it idles fine at about 650-700 revs - pulling and running well otherwise Have replaced the coil pack and leads, blue temp sensor, cleaned out the ISV (with brake cleaner and then lubed with PTFE oil), checked that the battery's OK. Am now stuck - any ideas? Thanks