Aus

Thanks - out of interest, what's the damage scenario if you mix incompatible coolants?

think it was a dark blue/turquoise-y colour

I've just replaced my blue coolant sensor after some advice from the forum (thanks). Lost a couple of litres of water/coolant during the sensor switch around. Was planning just to top up the levels with tap water and 1 litre of Comma Antifreeze/summer coolant (super coldmaster, antigel?) ... is this OK to do??? Cheers

Thanks - just tried it and made no difference to the idle so I guess I should get a new sensor?

And ... I read that with the engine running, you disconnect the blue sensor and if the egine runs rough then it's working. But how do you disconnect?

Reading the forum, sounds like I need to check my blue temp sensor. I'm a bit dim but if I pull out the blue plug, loads of coolant pours out ... is there an easy way (bar finding a cork to stuff up there!) to stop this, or is it inevitable, or am I pulling out the wrong thing?!

On a VR6, '94 - what does the blue coolant sensor do? My engine's dying when coasting to a stop and difficult to start when warm. The blue coolant sensor is often suggested as a possible fix ... - where is it (in really simple language!) - how to test it to see if it's working - what does it do? Cheers

Have '94 VR6 which has been running well but ... Recently started dying when coasting (not in gear) up to a standstill. Searched the forum and cleaned out ISV which temporarily helped. But also recently, it won't start quickly when warm - turns over and over, always eventually starts but used to start crisply and quickly. Had the car serviced a couple of weeks back outlining these problems and the garage replaced my coil pack and leads despite me saying no to! Can't say it's helped the situation. Are are the problems likely to be related? The engine idles great, pulls cleanly and runs well besides these problems ...

Dinkus - thanks ... can I let you know re the leads in a couple of days - will try and isolate the problem ... do you have email address so as I can let you know ... Cheers

My VR6 ('94) went in for a service today and to check out why the engine dies when coasting to a stop (I've cleaned thre isv)/bit of running running for first few mins when cold. The garage phoned me to say the coil pack was faulty - a new pack + HT leads and fitting will cost a bit over £400!!! They say VR6's a re suspect to coil pack problems - does this sound likely versus my problems??? And do they really cost that much new??? Cheers In desperation!

Hi ... need a service for my VR6 - any recommendations for garages around Sevenoaks, Redhill, Biggin Hill or M25 jcns 4 - 9 Cheers

sorry - should have included, a '94 VR6

Hi, in really easy to understand English/directions (I'm anyhthing but an expert!), where would I find the TPS and MAF sensor??? Many thanks

Hi, got a '94 VR6, running v well except the engine dies when coasting to a stop PLUS it idles very erratically just when started from cold PLUS, when starting from cold, there's a hint of petrol smell in the car but this disappears after 5-10 mins and isn't apparent when starting from warm. I've cleaned out the ISV which seemed to help initially but after a few runs, I'm back to the problems again. I wondered about a cracked/leaky cable? Any ideas (and if so, in very simple language!!!) Cheers

Cheers chaps!

Hi ... where's the blue temp sensor on a VR6 (and in dead easy to understand instructions as I'm a half wit!) ta

Thanks for the advice ... cleaned out the ISV with braker cleaner and sprayed in PTFE and all seems well. In fact, it's picking up noticeably better now. Cheers all!

Hi, I've got a '94 Corrado VR6, FSH (last service was last Sept), excellent condn, 63K miles (I've done half of those in the last 2 years; the previous owner had it from new and hardly used it). The car's been perfect for my 2 years except for when pulling up to a stop, once the clutched is pressed in or if I knock it out of gear to coast to a stop, the engine falls to below idle and often dies (battery light comes on). This happened v occasionally when I first got it, but recently is happening all the time so I have to try and keep the revs up when I come to a standstill. I've noticed just recently that when I first start the car from cold, it runs a bit 'rough' for 1-2 mins but then clears and is fine. It idles happily at a little below 750 rpm (I guess 600?) which seems quite low. Any ideas would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance

But seems odd that both died instantly?!

This isn't on my Corrado, but a problem with the family car - a Passat estate. With no warning, the boot won't stay open ... I guess the hydraulic rods have stopped working but odd that it happened suddenly, and both at the same time ... any ideas???

In search of where there may be a leak, I found that the Corrado badge (on a VR6, '94) on the rear is attached by several pins clipping thru the tailgate ... and water could seep/drip through.

I've poured water into the sunroof gutter and it came out fine. And the rear washer is working and all the piping was dusty and dry so guess that's OK. I'm absolutely stuck why the window steams so quick - have just run sealant all round the inside of the rear window, more in hope than anything else!

My rear window steams up whenever the car's stopped for a minute or so. There's no wet carpets/leaks from all the usual culprits and I've checked door membranes, door drain holes, heater matrix, rear light seals etc. The 2 front drain holes on the sunroof are fine, but I remember reading somewhere that there are 4 drain holes in the s/r? How do you get to the rear 2? Cheers ***Mod Edit: I've removed the other version of this post as it was identical to this one. - Henny ***

I had a tiny gap somewhere on the windscreen seal which I filled with sealant a few weeks back which seemed to stop the wind noise whistle that I had been getting, plus after washing the car/hosing it, I had noticed literally a few drops of water on the driver's side upper trim where it meets the windscreen. This all seemed solved but now, with the advent of the colder nights, I've been getting a condensation problem. Eg. last night was cold with a heavy dew this morning - my front windscreen was steamed up with some condensation at the base by the dash, the side windows were fine, but the back window had a heavy layer of condensation on the inside; indeed, if driving in heavy rain, the back window tends to steam up even if all inside the car is dry. There is no dampness on the carpets, nor any sign that the door membranes are holed. The windscreen seal is a replacement one, but the back window seal looks perfect/untampered and I guess, is the original. The sunroof drain holes are clear. Could the windscreen seal 'hole' have let water in which has caused a damp problem on the roof which will take time to dry out? Other than that I'm stuck - any clues?

Have a 1.8 which has been 100% reliable for the 3 years we've had it except ... every time you lock the car, the cl pump makes an intermittent noise for 1-2 mins and, not sure if this is related but every 6-9 months or so, when we go to start it (generally after it has been left for 12-24hrs) it fails to start (doesn't seem to be weather related), the engine doesn't turn over or if it does, it's as if the battery's flat, the dash makes an electrical 'screech' noise for 1-2 secs, the rev counter flips round, the trip counter, and sometimes the stereo all revert back to 0/default settings. If I rock the starter motor it doesn't help. There appear to be no charging probs from the alternator, I think as the car starts instantly irrespective of weather 99.9% of the time. We try jump starting which works occasionally but not always. If I charge the battery for a few hours, the car's fine, starts instantly and no sign of starting probs for months (altho the cl still, as it has always done, rumbles away after locking!). Each service has given the car a clean bill of health, and the local garages suggest they will only look at the car when it's in a disabled state ... Any clues??? Thanks in advance!