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oneohtwo

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About oneohtwo

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  • Birthday 05/01/1984

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  1. Good start, paint looks lovely! Must have taken some effort sanding all that down. When doing the engine rebuild look out for the chain tensioner - worth upgrading this to a Mk4 golf tensioner. better design and will last a lot longer.
  2. Thanks! Fitted the fuel lines I got from Hel. They really did a top number - there was a bit of confusion over whether they could do a hoses for the VR6, initially saying they could, but then couldn't when I sent the originals over because they are the pre-formed into shapes. So instead they sent two lengths of hoses plus connectors for free to make up for it. Fitted them and the have all gone on OK, and look smart: Certainly an option if VW originals can't be sourced. The third clip attached to the intake mani will help keep them all neat and together as well. Also think I have sorted the stripped thread on the slave cylinder bolt hole. Used Loctite thread repair: Form-A-Thread® Stripped Thread Repair Kit - 4.8-ml. syringe form-a-thread stripped th: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools Seems to have worked and the bolt is good and tight in there. Seems like a useful product to have if anyone is in a similar situation. Remains to be seen how well it will torque up, but might not go full torque on it just in case. Otherwise, I don't think I have any other options - can't get in there to drill the thread out for helicoil.
  3. Not really sure. I had a look over it and couldn't see anywhere obvious it could go. Maybe when I am connecting the hoses and throttle cable it might appear.
  4. Right, I've done it. Bought a new slave cylinder. Thanks all, it does feel like the hard work cleaning and painting everything is worth it now!
  5. Spoke to Stealth to see if they had any ideas where it may be from and they drew a blank as well. If they don't recognise it then god knows where it is from....
  6. Thanks Dox, that is quite useful - I think d need those panel mounted resistors as well, in order to get the power rating. The inline ones don't go high enough from what I can see. Will need some thought for where to locate them.
  7. Yeah, those seem fair assumptions to give a worst case. (removed the nonsense about the alternator) Voltage drop won't be the full 12V and I read somewhere a rule of thumb was to use a resistor with twice the power rating so I think 180W would do the job, as the voltage drop on the first resistor will be about 6V with 15a. This is good! Think I am going to go with that.
  8. Right based on all this, I think a reasonable wiring diagram/loom could look like this: Which I don't think would need any diodes - correct me if I am wrong. This pretty well reflects the Bentley diagram: But with the take off to the second fan. I've added the colours and thicknesses of wire to the diagram for reference as well. Just need to decide what resistors are needed. I have shown the lower end of the readings I got, on the basis that at some point in the circuit the resistance was at those levels. The higher values could be due to gunk on the connectors. I am not sure what power rating the resistors should have, not being all that familiar with electronics. I understand this is the power the resistor needs to dissipate and can be found y P=V^2/R where V is the voltage drop - but how do we find the voltage drop? I know this could be found by V = IR where I is the current, but I don't know the current. Any ideas? Or just pick the resistor with the highest power rating for those resistances and hope that covers it?
  9. Arghhh, what have you done! Now I am looking at slave cylinders and they're not horrendously expensive, and still available from good brands... Brembo, TRW, Bosch, Sachs and LUK all available from £30-£80. It's probably going to happen. I need to remove the existing again because the thread has partially stripped on one bolt. Got some thread repair for that, so may as well swap out the cylinder now as well.
  10. I've checked the resistance on the fan motor, and it's as follows: Speed 1: 0.5 - 0.7 ohms Speed 2: 0.1 - 0.2 ohms. I double checked the multimeter against a resister with a known value of 0.66 (+/-5%) and it read 0.7 so should be correct. Took a few readings which gave the range above. Speed 1 initially was 0.7 but then had more readings at 0.5-0.6 probably after I scraped some corrosion off the contacts.
  11. Yeah, true! Just seeing how rare they are and how much they get flogged for on ebay... I will dig out the Bentley manual and have a look. Good idea, if I've not busted it in the process, I will have a look and see what I get. Might also say in the Bentley.
  12. Out of interest I opened up the existing motor, and partly in the hope of using the connector, which perhaps in hindsight was a mistake, but if anyone is interested it looks like this: I've traced on the circuit routes below, as far as I can see them: I suppose the only point of interest is that the flat disk (with the 046 stamp on it) on the outside appears to be some sort of resistor (possibly, electronics is not a strong point, but I did notice the hard white insulating material falling out as I took it apart) and the feed for speeds 1 and 2 are passed through this before going into the motor itself, connecting via the spade connector on the left/right before connecting up with the terminal that Speed 3 runs directly into, and then around the motor circuit. Would this mean that the current for speeds 1 and 2 is regulated at the motor, rather than entirely by the control unit? Not sure if that needs any consideration for the slimline fan wiring. Anyway, there we go. Have possibly broken a perfectly good fan motor for no good reason - although it probably did need refurbishment anyway.
  13. Bit more progress on the rebuild over the last few weeks after I wasn't able to get on it in January. Connected up the driveshafts which was a tricky job, had to jack the engine up at the gearbox end as the shaft had dropped down and it doesn't clear the gearbox and subframe which was a pain! Gear linkages all connected up, and the slave cylinder back on, oil filter and ancillary bracket on: Starter in - went for the newer Vr5 one, found a fairly cheap genuine Bosch (alledgedly, it had the correct tag) reconditioned one on ebay. Also refurbed alternator, oil cooler and bolted down the cam cover. I had treated myself to an alloy crack pipe from ECS earlier in the year in a moment of madness so fitted that and the thermostat housing I'd had sat on the shelf for a few years from when I last changed the radiator. Not as old as the thermostat I've had about 10 years, when I first put a new rad in. Could never get a siezed bolt out so had to leave it all this time. Felt good to finally put it in! And finally got the lower intake manifold and fuel rail on. I painted the intake in a crackle grey which I quite liked and intended to do the upper manifold in his as well but couldn't get any sort of good finish with the paint so abandoned that for something else. Got to sort all the wiring out as well. All connectors are labelled so no issues connecting it, but it doesn't seem to be running in the right place. Some areas don't reach and others there's too much slack. I took loads of photos but apparently not enough...
  14. If it's this one: I thought the same but the plug is still in the hole, so I am stumped.
  15. Need some help identifying a tiny screw on a VR6 if anyone else has disassmbled theirs. It's an M3/3mm diameter and about 6mm long. Needs an allen key to remove. Looks like this: Sadly it is the only screw I forgot to label. I distinctly remember being extra careful taking it out thinking if I drop it I'm never getting that back but cannot for the life of me remember where I took it out. My only inkling was that it was maybe around the throttle body area, or possibly the fuel rail. I was hoping it would be come apparent as I reassembled things but I am running out of parts to fit and it hasn't turned up so I am starting to get nervous! Help!
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