perksy

dont suppose you still have the complete wiring loom do you is that the whole car?

have you got much of the wiring looms left for the whole car?

a up tom how much of the wiring for the car do you have left? if any

mine is same as kevs and i didnt have any problems what does the top tensioner look like and pics of the wheels below left vr right 24v size difference , its hard to see but the vr 1 is under it sorry for poor pic

Swift kid did you change the power steering pulley wheels over so the vr power steering pump has the 24v wheel on?

good point i have a spare 2.8 24v sump if you want haha but you sig says standard and keeping it that way so guessing this isnt really gunna be your thing

can i ask why your changing your sump is it leaking? if it was me i wouldnt touch the sump unless i had to on my vr engine {RIP} mine was leaking so had to change it on taking the sump bolts out three of them came out with the treads attached which was a right joke so then had to mess around getting them helicoiled which was a right ball ache so as the saying goes if aint broke dont fix it, is what i would say to you but if you have to change it that sump doesnt look to bad and i woulnt image they would use super thin metal as the original ones arent that thick a material in the first place cant remember which type of gasket but im sure when you go to europarts or where ever they will know, but again if it was me i would use the sump gasket paste from vw that the 1.8t 2.8 24v and r32 use as it seals so much better and you dont have to but hardly any torque on the bolts which helps not to strip the threads if you ever have to take it of in the future and yeah id change the sump bolts if they look in bad condition, there really not that expensive even from vw, but if they look ok then i probs wouldnt bother as its not a bolt under alot of torque so dont really need to be changed, i guess it depends on how much you want to spend

not good sean hope you get it sorted quickly well guess this answers my ? of how you find the 24v over the vr6 for day to day driving, there the same temperamental haha i guess if we didnt wanna tinker with our cars we would of just bought something modern and leave it standard

a up sean loving your car the chs suit it down to the ground great choice of wheel makes me wanna pull my finger out and get mine done how do you find the 24v engine over the vr6?

a up lee sorry i didnt get back yesterday didnt get near a computer to reply to you as ron said hes pmd me saying he is going to take them so sorry mate but if for any reason ron decides not to take um i'll give you first refusals on them so yeah sold subject to payment thanks for looking

a up mate there 8mm and fit fine, tight but fine selling as i no longer need them due to new plans yeah they are for a coilpack

magnecore ht leads as title done around 200 miles like brand new will even throw the sticker in will post at buyers cost cheers John List Date: 5/10/2014 Location: Sheffield, United Kingdom For more info, click here to view the original listing: magnecore ht leads -------------------------------------- This item is no longer available. -------------------------------------- Mobile friendly version: magnecore ht leads Go Mobile: Download the free Panjo iOS app now!

^^^ iknow how annoying and i bet the mods are finding it so annoying having to sort it for people, my ht leads have been in panjo thing for 2 weeks cant be bothered to hassle the mods to move it. i was going to start and sell my vr stuff (but think ill just hold onto it haha just in case) ive been holding on to but dont wanna do a thread for every part as there would be loads of them and then if you put them all in one thread the pics wont go next to the description and price and it could get a little confusing and annoying this must be a head bake if your breaking a car, or is that thread as normal? to make it clear im not moaning about panjo i think its really easy to use as fast as before and if you have one item to sell its fine and really easy and the adds look good, except some peoples threads dont go on the forum for sale threads and then if you have multiple items to sell it would be a right farce tbh

T6 - brown 6 pin connector 1 - G1/10 - G1/10 - Ignition live or ECU relay power, see notes below! 2 - G1/3 - G1/3 - Fuel pump relay earth trigger 3 - bin - - Use original wires for starter motor 4 - G2/9 - G2/9 - Permanent live to ECU 5 - G1/8 - G1/8 - Fuel pump live for lamda heater, MAF, carbon canister etc 6 - G1/8 - G1/8 - Fuel pump live, but normally this pin is unused anyway T10 - orange 10 pin connector 1 - to vag-com port - Diagnostics K line 2 - bin - - MPG signal 3 - G1/3 - !!!! - Fuel pump relay earth trigger 4 - - - 5 - - - 6 - W1 - W1 - from radio/dash plug W/1 Speed signal output from dash, need to have a GTI cluster or speed sender 7 - - - Aircon 8 - - - Aircon 9 - G1/12 - ! - Need rev counter adaptor for MK1/2 cluster, MSD 8920 works well 10- - - Use original wires for reverse switch T10w - white connector 1 - - - to vag-com port on AGU ecu. I have information that you put 12v to this wire when you want to flash the ECU but thats all the information I have currently! 2 - vag-com port -as is - CAN-BUS not needed for DBC ecu but wire it for DBW 3 - vag-com port - as is - CAN-BUS not needed for DBC ecu but wire it for DBW 4 - clutch pedal switch - - 5 - - - alternator pin DFM Only used on some models 7 - - - 8 - - - EPC fault lamp 9 - - - Crash signal 10- - - Emmissions fault lamp T10e - black 10 pin connector 1 - - - cruise control switch 2 - - - cruise control switch 3 - - - cruise control switch 4 - - - brake light switch Not sure if you need this or not i leave the wire spare behind fusebox just in case 5 - - - cruise control brake switch Not sure if you need this or not i leave the wire spare behind fusebox just in case 6 - - - 7 - - - 8 - - - 9 - - - cruise control switch 10- - - T14a - 14-pin black connector 1 - G2/10 or G2/11 - !!! - Oil pressure switch, see notes below 2 - bin or direct to clocks G2/4 - !!!! - Ignition live feed for speed sender, unused unless you have electronic speedometer 3 - bin or direct to clocks G1/11 - !!!! - Signal from speed sender, unused unless you have electronic speedometer 4 - G2/3 - !!! - Coolant sender for dash 5 - Z/1 - z1 - Fuel pump live for injectors 6 - Z/1 - z1 - Fuel pump live for other sensors on engine 7 - earth to battery - - Coilpack earth 8 - Z/1 - Z1 - E/14 (via male spade) Fuel pump live for injectors (5/6 cylinder engines) 9 - earth to battery or head - G1/5 -Earth for dash temp sender 10 - bin or direct to G1/11 - !!! - Signal from speed sender, unused unless you have electronic speedometer CLOCKS ^^^^or - - ! - X-over live, so only live with ignition NOT cranking, only on some diesels 11 - - ! - Oil level/temp sensor ignition live feed 12 - - ! - Oil level/temp sensor to dash (only works MK4 cluster) 13 - fan control unit or fan after-run relay Power feed for electric coolant pump, only on 5/6 cylinder engines. so thats how mine is wired up as i write this and doesnt fire so just looking at this i think i need to read threads right first time haha o and it might be good to have a write up from the VR6 to 24V side if this a little over whelming so G1 white connector 1 - 2 - 3 - T6 brown connector/2 + T10 orange connector/3 4 - 5 - T14a/9 (14 pin black connector) 6 - 7 - 8 - T6 brown/5 + T6 brown/6 9 - 10 - T6 brown/1 11 - 12 - T10 orange/9 G2 white connector 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 - 9 - T6 brown/4 10 - 11 - 12 - Z1 power - T14a/5 + T14a/6 earth - T14a/9 well hope this helps people help me haha any clues in the right direction would be much appreciated cheers John

cheers kip that would great if you could share how you wired up yours so here is where im at wiring wise, engine is a 2.8 24v aue (i know not an r32 im a pussy but the 2.8 was a good price i think for everything i got plus i didnt wanna blow a r32 up trying to get it in haha) O should add this engine was still in the car running when i picked it up and took it out myself to make sure i had everything i wanted /needed haha well i think i did so ecu sent to stealth and de immobilised (cheers guys amazingly fast service sent it wednesday had it back first thing monday morning)did have the clocks keys and rings so didnt really need to do this but just decided it was the better option and one thing less to try and and work around or think could be the problem ive used the vr starter motor wiring from to F in the fuse/relay panel so havent touched this one bit. ^^^ i was wondering weather i needed to connect the 24v to this but as im not using the 24v fuse board or relay panel ive just left this loose in the bay engine does turn over but not surprised by this as thats just a case of putting power to the starter motor so now for the fun part haha so to make it easy for people to change and edit ive used the great write up that rubjonny did on clubgti and ill just keep the stuff how i wired mine up so to make easy for people to change and edit after the pin number ive left that box as rubjonny has written as then i'll leave a gap for people to put in where they have put there wires and hopefully this should really help people get an idea of how other people have wired there cars up o and before people say ive copied this and it still doesnt work well this isn't a fool proof guide to fit an engine its just so maybe people can get an idea of where they might have gone wrong and to share info and things they have learnt if they choose, o and if people make changes could they please use a different colour to make it easy to see where they have changed please. original thread - http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?267196-OEM-MK4-management-wiring-gt-Mk1-2-3-harness-install-FAQ T6 - brown 6 pin connector 1 - G1/10 - - Ignition live or ECU relay power, see notes below! 2 - G1/3 - - Fuel pump relay earth trigger 3 - bin - - Use original wires for starter motor 4 - G2/9 - - Permanent live to ECU 5 - G1/8 - - Fuel pump live for lamda heater, MAF, carbon canister etc 6 - G1/8 - - Fuel pump live, but normally this pin is unused anyway T10 - orange 10 pin connector 1 - to vag-com port - Diagnostics K line 2 - bin - - MPG signal 3 - G1/3 - - Fuel pump relay earth trigger (3 bin Use original wires for reverse switch) 4 - - - 5 - - - 6 - - - from radio/dash plug W/1 Speed signal output from dash, need to have a GTI cluster or speed sender 7 - - - Aircon 8 - - - Aircon 9 - G1/12 - - Need rev counter adaptor for MK1/2 cluster, MSD 8920 works well 10- - - Use original wires for reverse switch T10w - white connector 1 - - - to vag-com port on AGU ecu. I have information that you put 12v to this wire when you want to flash the ECU but thats all the information I have currently! 2 - vag-com port - - CAN-BUS not needed for DBC ecu but wire it for DBW 3 - vag-com port - - CAN-BUS not needed for DBC ecu but wire it for DBW 4 - clutch pedal switch - - 5 - - - alternator pin DFM Only used on some models 7 - - - 8 - - - EPC fault lamp 9 - - - Crash signal 10- - - Emmissions fault lamp T10e - black 10 pin connector 1 - - - cruise control switch 2 - - - cruise control switch 3 - - - cruise control switch 4 - - - brake light switch Not sure if you need this or not i leave the wire spare behind fusebox just in case 5 - - - cruise control brake switch Not sure if you need this or not i leave the wire spare behind fusebox just in case 6 - - - 7 - - - 8 - - - 9 - - - cruise control switch 10- - - T14a - 14-pin connector 1 - G2/10 or G2/11 - - Oil pressure switch, see notes below 2 - bin or direct to clocks G2/4 - - Ignition live feed for speed sender, unused unless you have electronic speedometer 3 - bin or direct to clocks G1/11 - - Signal from speed sender, unused unless you have electronic speedometer 4 - G2/3 - - Coolant sender for dash 5 - Z/1 - - Fuel pump live for injectors 6 - Z/1 - - Fuel pump live for other sensors on engine 7 - earth to battery - - Coilpack earth 8 - Z/1 - - E/14 (via male spade) Fuel pump live for injectors (5/6 cylinder engines) 9 - earth to battery or head - G1/5 -Earth for dash temp sender 10 - bin or direct to G1/11 - - Signal from speed sender, unused unless you have electronic speedometer CLOCKS ^^^^or - - - X-over live, so only live with ignition NOT cranking, only on some diesels 11 - - - Oil level/temp sensor ignition live feed 12 - - - Oil level/temp sensor to dash (only works MK4 cluster) 13 - fan control unit or fan after-run relay Power feed for electric coolant pump, only on 5/6 cylinder engines. T2: (Only on looms with an ECU relay)i dont think i have this but i do have a random relay which im not sure what it is so could it be this ? pic below 1 blk/pur ecu relay pin 87 G1/10 Coilpack & ECU power feed