pj027235

Yup...seems logical to me. Today I am going to change the tps as I have a spare one and see if it makes any difference...

When you say injector timing do you mean they 'switch' on and off?

I don't think my engine has injector timing, it's a bosch CIS, but thanks anyway.

So yours isn't reading right either...

It's the oil temp that's puzzling me

Ok, I have a 93 2.0l 16v 9a ke motronic. The mfa mpg shows around 5 mpg less than the car is actually doing over a long run. The engine is standard and all gizmos such as lambda, tps, mfa, timing, isv are set up and working. I am fairly sure the mfa mpg read out is ecu generated as there is no vacuum line to the back of the clocks. My question is; can this be corrected or adjusted?

I have read many posts on concerns with high oil temp, but mine seems to be too low. It rises slowly compared to the water temp and sits stubbornly at 80 degs with a water temp between 95 and 100. It used to be around 100. I have cleaned up the sender and the wiring seems ok. If the sender was kaput would I get any reading at all?

I have a 93 2.0l 16v 9a, when I turn on the ignition the fuel pump primes as normal but dosesn't cut out after a few seconds. I have checked the fuel pump relay and it's fine (contacts not stuck together). Is it controlled by the ecu? Has anyone else had this problem? Any suggestions more then welcome. Phil.

Thank you

Can anyone please tell me the VW part no. for a lambda probe for a 93 2.0l 16v 9a. Many thanks.

Right peeps, I have read that by connecting a digital multimeter is series with the DPR and adjusting the 3mm idle mixture screw in the MAF housing one can set the correct idle mixture. My questions are; How accurate is this? and Is it as good as using an exhaust gas analyser? Caveat, So far I have not adjusted anything or removed the tamper proof seal.

Update2:- Original MAF potentiometer too worn to get any reliable and steady output volts....well it has done 235k. Now have a new MAF from a stealers, the pot output voltage is out of spec but the car is running fine. I'm not sure why the pot has such an influence on the mixture, but I would be delighted to know if someone knows the answer.

Do you still have the mass airflow valve and/or the petrol tank straps? Cheers, Phil.

How much for the lot except the bottom half of the airbox. Please pm me [email protected] cheers

Chris, Mr veedubbed not got one...

Ok, I'll see what he comes up with first. what sort of mileage had the car done that it's from? cheers.

Just the airflow unit with potentiometer and fuel dp unit. thanks

Mass airflow meter for 2.0l 16v wanted

Hi, do you still have the MAF?

Update:- The car had a toad immobiliser which has now been completely removed and wiring restored to original....made no difference. The problem is that the car is massively over-fuelling to the extent that it simply won't run. So I started to look at the metering head and the associated electrical gizmos screwed to it. Found that there was no power supply to the MAF potentiometer which is supplied by the ecu. Then found that there was no power to the ecu. I traced this to a badly crimped wire on the back of the ruse/relay block, which was also plugged in to the wrong connector or plug. I made good the connection to the fuse block...ecu now powered. Car will now run but mixture is still very rich. I returned to the MAF potentiometer and it's output voltage is way out of spec. I managed to get the pot off and can see that the electrical track inside is very worn. Although it is worn it is still working so tomorrow I am going to re-adjust it's position on the side of the MAF unit to try and get it's output voltage within spec.

If anyone has a pin diagram of a KE motronic ecu could you please post on here or send to me. If anyone knows which pin is the +ve feed that is also a help. Cheers Phil

Ok....immobiliser completely and wiring back as original. I've checked both fuel pumps and they seem fine although I can't hear the one in the tank. Tried starting it this evening. I turned it over for about 10 seconds, it fired once or twice but would normally be up and running straight away. Had a quick look at the plugs and 3 were wet one was black, sooty but dry. I'm starting to think it might be an ignition problem as fuel is obviously getting there. Any suggestions welcome, Phil

Yes I see that ignition switches can be problematic...it's going to get looked at today. Cheers.

Yes this is a possibility. The immobiliser on the car immobilised the ignition several years ago. When I find the problem I will update here. Thanks for replying.

Hi, I have a 2.0l 16v 9a which will start and then immediately cut out. I am thinking this is a fuel supply issue and so have been reading up on the fuel pump(s). Question 1, why are there 2 pumps? Q2, why does the external pump prime? is it pressurising the system? Once it has primed does it stop running? Any info much appreciated, Phil.