petemcr

These for the VR6? I'm interested but I may need to wait till next month so I'll check back and see if you've still got them, I'm fairly close in Congleton as well so I'll collect if they haven't done.

Going to try this today if I get chance or weekend, I was under the impression the control module for the Windows and CL was the one located behind the rear seat, I didn't know the CL had its own control module built into the pump. What did you use to supply the 12v current?

That was also the other reason which put me off, the relocating of everything on to the opposite side, not a huge amount of work but still... and if the Porsche engine lets you retain everything where it should be all the better. I always figured the 2.8 24v (baby 32) might have been a good choice, just given the kind of car they would come off might be less likely to have been trashed all its life, I believe they were called the old mans R32, can only imagine most R32's and Audi 3.2's have been driven hard all their lives now.

I spoke to Vince at Stealth about the R32 conversion and that was his take as well, few years back you could get a relatively young engine that didn't need any work doing, but now with the age of them and how much parts cost, he said it isn't as worthwhile a conversion any more. I've noticed a lot of people are using the Porsche engine though out of the Cayenne which I believe is the same engine as the R32, just further developed by Porsche.

I'd not noticed, I never knew it ran again or even noticed, wonder if it could be the pump. The actuator on the petrol filler cap works with the key but I don't believe that uses vacuum as it sounds more electrical and I don't hear the pump at all. To add to this, I also had a RightCLICK C/L unit fitted which was plug and play, so it sat between the factory loom and the pump, I'd imagine it sends a signal to the pump the c/l has been triggered to cause it to lock, but I removed that when the CL started playing up, I then re-fitted it once it started working again and it was all working fine, then... stopped again, but I can hear the RightCLICK unit clicking when I press the key, just no pump noise.

I gave this a go while everything was working, Locked the door latch with a screw driver, kept trying the CL while messing with the concertina, no change, everything was working fine, did the same on the boot and passengers door, still no change. It started raining a little here for about an hour, went back out and it had packed in again, so no more central locking and the fuel filler cap is back to unlocking when the car is locked and locked when the car is unlocked, Something is defo a miss with the wiring and water ingress is causing it but I can not for the life of me find where it is.

I'll give it a try today, I take it then while I'm trying to operate the central locking it's a case of seeing if it stops working when I press the concertina to check if there is a split in there somewhere?

So the central locking has suddenly started to work as of today, out of the blue, with nothing being done. Then after I drove it, it stopped again, drop it back home and sure enough, working again, so I'm a little confused as to what is happening with it.

I've not actually checked, I figured it was something like the unit with it being the same on board side, the only thing which appears to work is the full closure now, I'll have a check and see if any wires are broken, be a relief if it was that.

Hi everyone, Hope you are all well, I've used the search on here but the issue I have at the minute is a little unique and is sort of the last piece of the puzzle to getting my Corrado back working correctly. The issue is, since I've owned the car I've always had issues with the central locking, looks like the previous owner had messed with the wires inside the drivers door which I've tried to put right, a few had been snipped. So the solid red to the actuator had been snipped and left dangling, and the set of wires to the door handle weren't in the best condition. I managed to get a replacement plug and re-terminated the plug going to the door handle, since doing so I now have full closure again, if I hold the door in the lock position the sunroof closes which never worked, so I think the micro switch in the handle is Okay. This is now where it gets weird, I have lost my electric windows, sunroof is fine but neither side work, and if I lock the door on the drivers side it doesn't do any of the locks... BAR the petrol filler, that locks when the car is unlocked and visa versa, but I hear nothing from the pump itself or the relays in the rear seats. I do have a spare comfort control module that I have yet to try but I hear it click on when I reconnect the battery, but then nothing after. Checked the fuses, I believe there is one situation above the normal fuses which is for Central Locking/Windows and it's fine, same with the relay next to it. Does any of the gurus on here have the tests I can try with a multimeter to determine where this might be going wrong, I can live without the central locking but it would be nice to have it back, but I really would love windows again in summer.

Not sure if the ISV is used straight away or if it goes off once fast idle goes off but I just started it with the pipe off that had the valve opening behind and there was no movement from it, which I guess means it's definitely had its day

Good to know the eBay ones aren't worth getting, I was debating them but at least they're known to be no good, back to the drawing board. Will need to test the one that's on now but I'm pretty sure its no good, replaced it with a used one a while back and it's been stood for some time

Will this show it's working correctly? I thought they could still stick even if they can open fully

Think they were the ones I was debating getting if it does turn out to be the ISV, worth a shot I reckon

Awesome, life saver How much do you want fella?