P3rks

On here in the classifieds, Edition 38 forum, Pistonheads.com classifieds, Ebay. They are all free resources and I've sold all of my cars through the like. Good luck.. But you'll miss her.. You know you want to keep the Corrado :thumbleft:

I just had my G60 head pressure tested, skimmed, cleaned and valves lapped/re-seated whatever you want to call it and some new stem seals put in (I supplied the seals) for £100 cash in hand at a local engineering firm. It can be done on your own easily and I've done it before to a few engines.. It's a long, laborious pain in the arse job though. But it does require the head off top be done properly. You'll need a valve spring compressor which effectively holds the valve from the underside (hence head off) and pushes the valve washer (can't remember what you call it) down to reveal x2 colletts which require a magnet to get out. then the valve just drops out. You do this 8 times obviously. It's fiddly and annoying. Then you can re-lap/seat the valves.. So re-insert the valves, place some grinding paste on the valve/seat and then use like a rubber/wood suction tool which sticks to the underside of the valve to grind.. Imagine your trying to start a fire so you twist the wood/rubber suction tool in your hands which twists the valve and uses the grinding paste to re-seat the valve. There are usually two grinding pastes (one coarse one fine).. You need to spend a good 10-20 mins on each valve. So it's a pain in the arse job and expect sore hands unless you masturbate a lot and you have thick skin. All in all, it's worth £50 to pay someone to do it.

That's the carbon canister.. You can remove that. You can block off one of those black pipes but keep one open. they are for the breather/return for the fuel tank. So the breather needs to stay open. You can also remove all that pipework from the drivers side suspension turret (sits in between your induction kit and turret on your engine bay pics).. I'm unsure what to do with the pipework though, as in which needs blocking off etc as mine was already done when I bought the car. I'm sure someone more knowledgeable will be along shortly. Regarding your coolant temps, have you checked your thermostat is working? From cold the thermostat should be shut, so the top rad hose will warm up first and the bottom rad hose will stay cold until the thermostat opens, then it warms up. If the bottom hose warms up the same time/speed as your top hose it means your thermostat is stuck open. likewise if it stays cold for ages and ages it means it's stuck shut. Oh, and the thermostat is under the waterpump where the plastic u-bend is.. basically bottom corner of the engine closest to the drivers headlight. It's a pain to get to as you have to remove the powersteering pump.

To change to coolant just undo the bottom radiator hose/waterpump hose and let it drain. Reconnect and then re-fill.. Let the car warm up a little with the expansion tank off and the fan on full/hot and squeeze all the pipes to remove any air locks. Try and use OE G12 coolant from TPS/VW/online. It's only like £6 odd a bottle. Whilst you're at it you could double check there are no coolant leaks, change the thermostat and the expansion tank cap for good measure.. You have a black expansion cap which are known to fail and have since been replaced by a blue one (£9 from TPS). Regarding the temp sensor if you look at the flange on the front of your head there are two plugs/sensors. Ones blue (for the ECU coolant temp) and ones black (for your dashboard coolant temp).. But saying that you shouldn't really be seeing over 90degrees anyway. Even if I nail mine I'll struggle to get over that.

As what JMC said.. That pipe goes to the throttle body and was for the charcoal canister which normally sits in that cut out under the airbox (you can just see it bottom left of your photo's). From the factory there is a pipe which goes from the throttle body to the ISV/cam cover breather/supercharger. With G60's you can blank off the return on the supercharger.. if you look to the right of your supercharger you have a small black pipe which is not original. That should go to a filter or something in theory; follow it and see where it leads. Your ISV has a small filter which is non standard which also suggests you have the return blank fitted. Finally your throttle body will have a bare outlet not fastened to anything on the underside if you have the return delete fitted. That's where your 'woosh/whistle' is coming from.

My bad!

Good Seller - After posting a wanted thread for a Mocal oil kit, 'odub' contacted me. He offered me a sandwich plate and lines for a very good price. Fast delivery, well packed, great items and as described. Even came with some blue roll and latex gloves so I didn't get dirty when fitting them.. Overall I'm well happy with the transaction and would recommend him to anyone.

Hello Paul! You want to try and use a genuine G60 oil filter where possible. I think they have a valve inside which some pattern parts don't have and also have a smaller mesh to avoid particles contaminating the charger. How close is the OE filter? You could use a normal filter from a MK2/3 Golf GTi 1.8/2.0 8v/16v.. These are similar to G60 filters but don't have the nut on the end which will save you 1cm or so. Also the filtration is not as good due to a larger mesh. If it's actually the height of the filter itself then at a push you could use a filter from a Polo G40, it should have a similar mesh like the G60's filter, but be warned it's for a 1.3 engine so it's filtration properties won't be as good. But try and use the OE G60 filter if you can. The oil pressure switches are known to leak at the very top where the spade connector goes. And they can go pretty bad too. Mine leaked over 1tr of oil in under a week. No lies.

Phew...Glad thats sorted! But I've fixed it.. Changed the HT's, Dizzy cap and rotor arm... Turns out the dizzy cap was cracked where the king lead fastens so it was arcing.. Yay!

Are you sure? I was under the impression that the lower the number in Bosch terms the colder it is? The W5DP0 is the plugs the G40 uses and is colder.. Aimed at G60's with 190bhp+ NGK is the other way around. So The higher the number the colder it is..

Currently running on W6DP0's.. But like I say they look pretty tired. I have some W5DP0's ordered which come tomorrow. The car's running about 200bhp so they should be a little better.

Right.. So literally a 0.6mm feeler gauge under the spark plug and bend the electrode to suit?

This is exactly what I though. Well, The new HT's (well, 1 week of use from my old PB engine) will go on tonight. Same with the dizzy cap and rotor arm. See if that fixes it.. Also, regarding the spark plug gap, I've read it should be .24 or 0.6mm.. I'm confused? I've never set a gap before can anyone explain the basics?

After having a nightmare with my new G60 and after replacing the headgasket/head I'm now getting a misfire under load. Whether it's related or not I don't know. The car drove fine for about 200 miles. Then suddenly started misfiring under load. The car will drive perfect on part throttle. I can get up to about 8psi of boost (according to my boost gauge which will show 10psi of boost on WOT). The car will rev all the way through the rev range (on part throttle). The car idles fine. I actually drove 100 miles with this issue, on part throttle so I can confirm it only does it on WOT. As soon as I give it WOT at any revs the car bogs down/hesitates and misfires; in a high gear and low revs on WOT it still misfires. Being low RPM it doesn't get up to boost but still misses, which shows it's not boost related. I've not tried WOT from cold, only from warm. 80+ degrees and I don't want to give it beans from cold. The car drives fine on part throttle from cold. The timing is spot on, the ignition timing is spot on (6 degrees BTDC). Both idle and WOT switches are 'clicked' by the throttle cable. The ECU hose is a brand new VAG hose, 1m. It's had a new fuel filter. It's had a new throttle body to coil housing earth strap, the earth from the battery to body/gearbox look to be in good condition. I have some new Golf Gti 8v HT leads I can try, I'm picking up a new dizzy cap and rotor arm on the way home from work tonight. It has the W6DP0 plugs; the age and condition of these are negligible. The coil looks to be in a fairly new condition - on that note which way should the black and green wire be fastened to the coil? I.e. Which is positive and which is negative? How can I check the idle and WOT switches are working correctly? How can I check the hall sender? What other checks should I be doing? Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. :luvlove: ---------- Post added at 10:27 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:57 AM ---------- Just ordered a beru dizzy cap and rotor arm which I'll try tonight. Also, ordered some W5DP0 plugs which come tomorrow. (Car is tuned, 68mm pulley, stage 5 charger, exhaust, P&P head etc). or should I go for W6DP0?

I think this will be my plan.. cable tie it in.. Wrap it in the solder mat which is good for about 600°C.. Then metal cable tie that.. Hope it works.. This is not a bad shout actually.. I'll have a look, but i;m sure the manifold doesn't have much clearance where it passes the bulkhead. Thanks for the idea's guys.. Keep 'em coming! :thumbleft:

Anyone? I'd like to put my car back together at the weekend and I want this tackling first. .

Also, with a car like that you want to make sure ancillaries, drivetrain, steering and suspension components have been looked at. At 150k, some cars will start to have serious wear on bushes, waterpumps, radiators, water piping, brakes pipes, handbrakes etc etc. These are easily over looked if they work, but are worn and are not easy or cheap jobs.

Added... Can't believe mines the one rado in Sheffield..

It's a LHD manifold, like the majority of them, so most sit like this. I've done a search to confirm this, I've just not found a confirmed answer on what to do.

I'll take one please..

I've just fitted a 4 into 1 manifold to my G60 and the manifold just touched the rubber boot on the steering column. I don;t want any fires so what can you recommend? I don't really want to heat wrap the manifold, to avoid cracks etc. I have some heat proof matting which is good up to 600°C... But if I wrap this around the rubber boot, then this touches the manifold even more.. Would this withstand the heat? Pics: Any other options I can go for? Also.. Does any one know the correct torque for the copper bolts?

Nice one.. I understand now. So literally the mocal outlets face the engine and the furthest outlet on the mocal (in the picture) is towards the front bumper. I'll get that done tomorrow and update! Thanks a lot for that buddy! :thumbleft:

Hmmm.. I'll have a look tonight and let you know which works.. If you could in the meantime get some photo's that would be grand! Thanks a lot Rob!

As in resting on it's side? So the inlet and outlet are above and below each other? Nope, It's too long. Or do you mean so the inlet and outlet at the top?

Nice one.. Pics would be useful please! I found another issue.. my oil cooler is too long to fit in the intercoolers place.. I ordered a 235mm instead of a 115mm.. Doh.. Any advice where I can fit it? I'm loathed to fit it in front of the intercooler... Oil cooler-intercooler-radiator is a bit overkill is it not?