P3rks

Well, I've had all the door cards off and changed them recently. There are no obvious trails or rust what you would expect to see from a leaky window. Now the door condoms are all split and gaffer taped up. BUT.. The door cards are solid, no signs of water damage. Are there any common blocked water ways I could look at?

I've noticed that my passenger side rear floor is wet.. The front passenger floor is bone dry The boot is bone dry under the rear seats are bone dry. It's literally just the rear passenger compartment; but it's more greasy/oily than wet, if that makes sense? Any thoughts to what it is or where it's coming from?

I have a mate who swears by Savi.. He took his Mk3 Polo GT, Mk3 G40 and his current Polo Derv there. If I remember correctly the guy has or had a Corrado himself. I've heard nothing but good about the place.

nice.. So I just have a duff sensor.. Next question.. Whats the part number? ETKA shows: 357919379 and 357919379A Any thougths?

My G60 never came with a temperature sensor; nothing showed on the MFA. until it rained then I'd get a reading of 50. I've done a search and apparently if the sensor is duff I should see a random reading, but if I short the sensor wiring I should see 50, with it unplugged it should disappear. I have shorted the wiring and saw 50, also unplugged I see nothing. I've installed a used sensor from a 16v Corrado; it reads is 50. Any idea's? New sensor time? If so, does anyone know the part numbers for a correct sensor for a 91 G60.

Don't fancy black.. It's a bit too dark and, well, the obvious choice. I'm tempted with a subtle charcoal, or something like tan.

Thanks for the info and opinions guys. I ended up buying them.. I'm not a fan of the colour but I love the leather. Hmm.. Re-Dye time? @bristolbaron.. Yeah, I really want some Electric early Recaro's, but they seem to be fetching 1k+ and I can't afford that at the moment. These leathers were silly cheap.

If 8vMatt doesn't take the fogs can I be 2nd on the list please!? I'll take the indicators at the same time if so.

I'm after a good condition grey carpet. No rips, tears, burns or high wear areas etc. As mint as possible really. Thanks.

I've been offered a grey leather interior; that's seats and door cards, but I have a black carpet and dash. Do you guys think this'll go or do you recommend getting a grey carpet and/or dash to suit? Pictures would be helpful.. Love you x

As the title really. I need to replace all of my rubber exhaust mounts on my G60 with a G-werks stainless system. It has the early hangers. Will OE hangers be able to cope? Do I go Power-flex? Or so I get the ones with the rubber chains in? What do you guys recommend?

I'm not sure.. But like I say, between 500-600 is the standard set up at a guesstimate. If you're concerned you're better off taking it to a a garage to get it set up on a CO tester. Nice.. So this is the proper way to do it then? Where as testing the resistance is just a guess and the most common values? Stupid question, but adjusting the resistance with the switch unplugged and doing it your way are two ways of doing the same thing? Or is it setting up two different things?

I'd be interested..

Resistance should probably, I hate electrics and I have a crap meter so I'm unsure. Anyway, running lean promotes higher temps in an engine, boosted cars run at high temp anyway, so you risk melting a piston or something.

I'm with FishWick.. By law automotive OEM manufactures have to supply parts for 10 years after the initial contract is up. After that then they don't. My experience is once the initial contract is up, never mind the 10 years, the machines/fixings/moulds/tools will all either get scrapped, will be damaged/worn beyond use or dumped in a storage room to rot and any extra parts made before, will be the spare parts supply. E.g. I work for an automotive aluminium extrusion company, we are currently 7.5 years into a 8 year contract with BMW, then we have to supply; by law 10 years of spares. There is no way in hell our machines will last another 10 years without a 100k overhaul. The newest Corrado's are what? 16-17 years old? That's a 6 year window where these tools can officially be scrapped. No company will keep these tools around and if they do, why would they keep them in good condition if they never use them? They won't. It's just business. Contract over, cars no longer being made.. What's next? The tools which are still around will be worn beyond belief and will be out of tolerance. We work within 0.05mm.. 20year old machines which will have produced hundreds of thousands of parts will be useless.. New tools will be thousands to make. (We spend 60k on a single fixture alone and have about 4 fixtures per product - to put things in perspective.) This is obviously for mass production, any parts from now on will be in thousands of units, not hundreds of thousands, so cost will be lower, but the set up costs for new tools or repair costs for any existing tools will still be into the thousands. On that note, VW see the Corrado as a fail, it had low sales and was a financial nightmare, it's not in their interest financially to make obsolete parts again.

When I did mine it only worked one way; can;t remember if its 1 to 3 or 3 to 1. Mine was a cheap multimeter though. It works for idle mainly. Not for part throttle. But is used for full throttle.

31 isn't good at all. That's very very, rich! Anything below 400 is considered low, imo. Are you sure that you are using te correct setting on your multimeter? Leave it at 500 for now, take it for a spin/drive and see what it feels like, check the exhaust for soot. Edit: you better double check you used the correct reading on the multimeter, if you run it too lean you'll risk damaging your engine.

Its for measuring air entering the engine.. I would presume air mass or air content.. Maybe someone could clarify this? it also measures Air Temp. Well, yeah, black soot on the exhaust usually indicates a rich mixture. Simply unplug the connection on the co-pot, but leave the co-pot where it is. Measure resistance (in ohms) across pin 1 & 3 and see what the reading is. If you adjust the screw whilst measuring the reading will change. Do this when the car's turned off I think. Most people advise between 500-600 for a chipped/tuned G60. I think 431 or there abouts is factory standard iirc. But like I say, this is a loose guide and realistically you'll need a gas analyser to set it up properly. In short my understanding is that the Co-Pot affects the mixture on idle, but not on partial throttle as the lambda takes over in the fuelling dept. Then on WOT (wide open throttle) a map table within the ECU uses a MAP (manifold air pressure) sensor in the ecu along with readings based loosely on the Co-pot and blue temp sensor. I.e: This much manifold air pressure, at this air temp, with this much CO and at this coolant temp = chuck this much fuel in.

got my first Chuftie last night! I was sat waiting for the g.friend to finish work when a guy drove past in a van, stopped, reversed back and indicated me to roll the window down.. Papped myself because I was sat on double yellows at the time.. then the guy goes: "is that a real G60!!!?" "yeah!" "I used to have one of those back in the 90's, what year is it?" "It's a early 91" "Is it for sale, yeah?" "I murmured a hmmm.. and indicated and unsure sign with my hand, maybe 3.5k-4k" "It's not standard though, it's pushing about 200-220bhp with other things.." The guys face dropped! He then pulled up, got out and had a look around the car, showed him the engine, he loved the Samco's! Wanted to hear it idle.. He took my number and told me he'll be in contact to offer me something for it.. He then told me to get off as my g.friend had turned up by this point and was looking bored.. As was his misses sat in his van.. He told me he was waiting outside to see/hear it drive off! he was well excited.. Like a little boy! I don't expect a phone call, not that I'd sell it without a real good offer anyway, I think he was over excited with seeing one and reminisced a little. Felt great though!

Are we looking at the same picture and black arrow here or what? :scratch: The picture I see is for the Co Pot. The sensor which reads the air going into the engine and adjusts the fuelling accordingly. Not the lambda/O2 or blue temp sensor. You should measure the resistance across pin 1 & 3 with the plug removed and see between 500-600 ohms as a guide. You adjust the screw to adjust the figure. If I remember correctly if you measure between pin 2 & 3 then blow on the sensor you should see a fluctuation. The lower the resistance the richer the car is, the higher the number the leaner it is. 38mpg on a long run is very good btw so I would say your car isn't running rich at all. 28mpg on a long run I would start to be concerned. I average 33-37mpg on a long run with mixed driving and some erm.. foot to the floor moments. 43.5mpg is my best and that was set straight off, onto a duel carriage way, then motorway with no stopping for traffic/lights, sat 60mph on the motorway for about 100miles. Yawn.

Nope, The VT one is kinda semi-solid. So somewhere in-between a solid and OE mount.

Tried that, but they are all covered in crap, I wire brushed them but I can't get the the bit right next to the plastic sleeve. Booo..

Hello!

I think this is the general thought of whats best for a G60: MK2 Golf Diesel Gearbox Mount OE style rear mount Vibratechnics front mount. Some people go for a solid front mount, but in my experience it's far too rattly and the bolts are known to work loose over time or crack the actual mount bracket.

Well you're more than welcome to come for a spin if you like? You the samG40 from club polo with the White G40?