tentonhammer
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Everything posted by tentonhammer
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*SOLD* For sale is my Volkswagen Corrado 16V 2.0 (9A) - £2500.00 ONO The car is colour coded to LC5M (Moonlight Blue Pearl Effect) and has a smooth front and rear end with de-locked colour matched (keyless) door handles and side mirrors to give the car a clean look. It is sitting on adjustable Coilover suspension and 16” Borbet A alloy wheels (polished). Inside you will find comfortable Audi TT leather seating on custom built frames which really give the car a more modern feel and look - you'll be lucky to find this on another Corrado, and black leather interior throughout, all leather in great condition. The car is also fitted with a new custom built short shifter, turning the old stock shifter that has a loose and wide throw to it (front to back) into a modern tight short-throw shifter similar to cars being manufactured today - this is considered to be the best (and certainly not the cheapest) performance modification available for the Corrado to date. Other features include, power steering, power windows, power mirrors, power sunroof (slides and tilts), central locking throughout, alarm with long range antenna and immobiliser etc. disc brakes (ABS), Falken tyres on all wheels (95% tread remaining), audio sound system, fully functioning speed-activated rear wing spoiler (rises automatically at approx. 55 MPH), uprated headlight wiring loom installed by qualified electrician sealed to IP65 3 x resistor protection - loom tucked away in engine bay (lighting improved by 75%), OSRAM Night Breaker Plus headlight bulbs, and many more. A ton of new parts have been fitted to the car since my ownership (VW / OEM parts only) including all new ignition components, new S5 Bosch 12V battery with 5 year guarantee, new Jetex cat back full stainless steel exhaust system and exhaust mounts, new air flow components, new seals, new engine sensors, trim, electrical components, the list goes on… Please email me for a complete Itemised Summary of the car as there are too many to list here. All body and paint work is in pretty good shape and was resprayed 2 years ago (LC5M). There are the usual stone chips on the front end, a small chip of paint missing on the front bumper, and the odd car park blemish / scrape here and there present on most cars but nothing major. The car is cleaned, T-cutted, and waxed regularly to ensure a clean finish. I have only ever put premium (high-octane) unleaded fuel in this vehicle, and regularly add Redex Fuel Treatment to fuel to maintain fuel lines etc. Motor oil, brake, power steering, transmission, and coolant fluids have always been OEM. Considerations for the buyer include: Hand brake cable slipping (ABS brakes sharp and responsive) alloys showing signs of wear (rim only). All are minor defects that do not impact on the cars performance in anyway. No MOT Advisories and no other issues. The car has been very well looked after and runs and drives great as a result! Mileage is 99,574 miles and there is 6 months left on the MOT and Road Tax. Registration is K969 BDP. Payment Terms: The car will be sold on a first come first serve basis and is advertised locally. Cash transactions only please. No PayPal unfortunately as I have already had suspected scammers wishing to purchase the vehicle. Sensible offers welcome. Will also consider P/X for Jeep or similar. To view the car or to find out more information please get in touch with me as soon as possible. Thanks for your interest,
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In the eyes of the law - yes. Traffic cops tried to do me for the exact same thing a year back and nearly got myself 3 points for it (or so they threatened, it was never going to fly) - Failing to declare mods on my insurance apparently, even though my exhaust at the time was a direct stainless steel OEM replacement or so I was told. I got away with it in the end by playing stupid, and thanking them ever so much for pointing out that my exhaust was looking 'shinier than normal'. Got an even shinier Jetex system on there now so def had to declare that one! My issue with mods is simple: Some mods are unavoidable on older cars due to discontinued parts (like exhaust) or simply to bring the car in line with modern standards, to make the car safer etc, so why should we be forced to pay higher premiums for this? I always declare EVERYTHING but I can certainly see why people are reluctant to declare mods because of already extortionate premiums. Stickers - modification?? F*ck me what next lol
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Some very interesting responses here ;) Wullie - It certainly looks that way unfortunately, one law for one thing another law for another... It's quite clear that by deliberately turning our ignition on engaging the anti-theft (locking the car down completely) we are in fact violating the letter of the law. It's a shame the Police haven't got the brain power to work this out, instead they've turned something quite straight forwards into a ball ache. Not all crashes result in engine switch off, and so in an incident like this the anti theft device will be active resulting in a locked door for the emergency services. Obviously my passenger side handle was knackered (as well as it being a 20 year old car albeit in great nick:cool:) so the Police took it upon them selves to pull me. What's done is done now eh. I'll def see what the MOT testers have to say about this though as I have never had problems getting the car through it's MOT before, but then both handles were working normally...
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destructiv - I was nice as pie to him (my missus was in the car as well). We literally pulled up beside the Police car and he must have saw the damage to the passenger side door / handle. BILLCOR - Exactly, anti hijack is pretty standard on most cars these days so you would think the Police would realize that if you car is fitted with one, your external door handles are completely useless anyway - I would have thought then that anti-theft voids the legality of your door handles if this is the case?
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Well, it seems the old plod have stuck their nose in again and issued me with a 'Prohiition Notice' which to those of you who don't know what these are, it means I can't use my car until it gets the all clear by the garage (via another MOT, car was only MOT'd before xmas!) and then it has to be given the all clear by the Police afterwards(!). The notice was issued because the officer couldn't get into my passenger door properly because the door handle (external) wouldn't work. The door works fine from inside the car and central locking ok etc. Basically some oik reversed into my passenger side door over Xmas, knackering the door handle in the process (external handle only, internal mechanism fine). The car is fitted with Passat (88-93) rear door handles (colour coded to CM5) for keyless entry into the vehicle. In order achieve this central locking with remote fob etc was fitted to control the locking mechanism(s). Now the problem I have is this - The dumb f*ck officer failed to recognize the fact that my car's central locking system has anti hijack built in (as do ALOT of other cars out there), meaning NOBODY, even the fire brigade can just waltz over to my car and get in basically! His problem was that if the car was involved in an accident, the fire brigade wouldn't be able to open the door from the outside via the door handle, which you can't do on my car any way because of the central locking and so he restricted use of the vehicle until the garage gives the new handle the all clear. I made it quite clear to him that the fire brigade wouldn't give a f*ck about a door handle that wouldn't open, they would just simply break the damn window but he wasn't budging. I explained that a new handle was going on in the next week or so but because of the car's central locking anti hijack feature I didn't think it would be an issue?? After getting on the radio to his MOT buddy, eventually he decided to issue me with a 'Prohibition Notice' instead of giving me 3 points (yes, 3 f*cking points??!?!). Still means I have to shell out to a garage for a new MOT and get the all clear from the Police, on top of fitting a new door, body work, painting, and fitting new door handle plus colour coding handle etc. I presume then that central locking with built in anti hijack systems are illegal too or maybe the Police just don't give a sh*t these days? I know the Police see it from a 'door handle' point of view but they really need to consider central locking as a key factor here. Anti hijack systems render your door handles useless after all. What kills it is that there is no right of appeal against the 'imposition' of a Prohibition Notice, just what the garage say which is still going to cost me money and doesn't give me the right to use my f*cking car in the mean time. It's stuff like this that makes good honest people HATE the f*cking Police. I'm getting sick of my license being at risk over silly things like this.
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Nice bonnet pins BTW - Did you install these yourself or were they already on the car when you bought it? Never liked bonnet release cables, it's just more clutter under the bonnet
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Some tw*t has driven into my passenger side door badly damaging it. So much so I can't even get the door open. I need a replacement asap! to fit a C 92 16V 2.0 Preferably in Moonlight Blue Pearl Effect (CM5) or any other dark colour. If anyone has one please let me know Cheers,
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Hotel Chocolat without a doubt. http://www.hotelchocolat.co.uk/?gclid=CMP9x6rkmbQCFZMftAodkhgAEQ
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Drain your old fuel and put some new fuel in. If you don't want to drain your old fuel then put in higher octane gas to give it a kick up the a*se. Then run some Redex injector cleaner through it. It only takes a month or so for fuel to go stale, longer if a fuel stabilizer is added. Fuel turns into a crud like jelly when it goes stale which wrecks your fuel lines, injectors, fuel filter etc. Symptoms are lumpyness, choking / misfiring, cut out etc. - Right on the money and worth doing this. The give away here is this - was the car doing it before it was SORNed? If not then it's probably a fueling issue. I'd rule this out first
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Chap in his mid 30's run over to my car yesterday while I was stuck in traffic. First thing he said to me was "how much!?". He then went on to say that he's seen a few around the area but mine was by far the best he's seen. The car was filthy dirty I dunno what he was talking about... ;)
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Dave - Will send my old shifter back to you soon. Hope to fit new shifter over xmas (time off at last!)
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Lumpy when hot - Problem with coolant temp sensor?
tentonhammer replied to tentonhammer's topic in Engine Bay
Hi Supercharged, I thought VAGCOM was limited on a 9A? Heard you can only really find the ABS controller and that's about it which doesn't really help me much (could be wrong though). Haven't had it on diagnostics as a result. Will def check lambda and lambda wiring etc. Do you happen to know how to test the lambda to check correct functionality? -
Can't be all bad - a chap in his mid 30's run over to my car yesterday while I was stuck in traffic. First thing he said to me was "how much!?". He then went on to say that he's seen a few around the area but mine was by far the best he's seen. Think this probably deserves a spot in the chufties section too... ;)
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9A engines by chance? Always on the look out for parts for my 92 16V 2.0 (9A)
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Lumpy when hot - Problem with coolant temp sensor?
tentonhammer replied to tentonhammer's topic in Engine Bay
Thanks it was worth a punt, at the very least I've added more new parts into the engine bay which can only be a good thing ;) I've been toying with the idea of swapping out the ECU, I don't have another one to hand though unfortunately so either way I'll have to throw more money at it regardless. I'm slowly rebuilding the engine anyway so all good. When I get some time (and nice weather!) I'll start stripping the the loom back to try to find any breaks, shorts, bad grounds, poor contacts etc between the coolant sensor / lambda / and ECU. Dry joints / poor contacts are always a problem on older cars and in fact I've fixed a few already so I can almost guarantee I'll find some more. In a perfect world I'd gut the loom out altogether and build a new one, fairly straight forward to do really - the cable manufacturing part NOT installing it back into the car! -
I've just added the diagram to my Tech Data. Nice one ;)
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That's a pretty neat diagram Wullie, where's it from?
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This the chap? He pretty much covers this top to bottom.
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Check the long thin breather hose that is connected to the dual thermostat located underside of throttle body air intake tunnel to the air box. Without this connected the car won't start for sh*t.
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I have an ongoing issue with my 9A maybe someone can help me out, what I expected to be a simple fix has now become a bit of a head scratcher, see below. Fitted a new coolant temp sensor this weekend (1x Bosch TEMPERATURE SENSOR 0280130040) as I suspected it to be faulty, issue remains. Basically the car gets lumpy as hell when she’s warmed up. If you disconnect the coolant temp sensor the lumpiness disappears immediately, idle goes back to normal and the car drives great (albeit in default mode via ECU because the car doesn’t feel as smooth as it does with a working coolant temp sensor connected). By disconnecting the coolant temp sensor in this way I would have hoped this would isolate the problem. Simply replace faulty sensor, reset ECU and we’re all done – That would be far too easy though eh…! There seems to be something else at fault here but I don’t know what? It doesn’t look like fueling because as I said, when coolant temp sensor disconnected the car runs great. Fuel pump priming, injector spray pattern good. Plus there is no smell of fuel to indicate the car is over fueling and I’m not tearing through fuel either. Could be an issue with cold start injector perhaps although this seems to be working fine. More knowledge of the relationship between a 9A coolant temp sensor / ECU / and cold start injector needed (no thermal time switch on a 9A). It can’t be ignition as I ‘ve replaced everything with brand new components (OEM plugs, OEM leads, OEM distributor, new battery, ignition coil + module etc). If it was ignition I would expect the car to be lumpy all the time even with the sensor disconnected but it isn’t – only when sensor is connected. Like I said, disconnect the coolant temp sensor and the car runs fines, great in fact! Plug it back in and the car gets lumpy / misfires, idle drops off, throttle doesn’t want to engage / is hesitant. Anyone know the correct output resistance for a coolant temp sensor? Should reading go up or down as it is heated up? I’d like to be able to test mine to eliminate it. All ideas welcome. Cheers, C 16V 2.0 (9A)
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immobilisers can be such a pain in the *rse, they're more trouble than they're worth sometimes
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If my laptop speakers had fists they would be punching me in the face for the abuse I've just put them through ;) Awesome job. Sounds like something Feed Me would do actually... My only criticism - it's tad short at 3.25, 5-6 minutes would better (gives DJs more to play with). More melody sections would allow listeners to remember / identify the track again later on, it will also help commercialize it slightly to broaden it's appeal.
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I'm inclined to ask you to put a picture up of your Corrado so we can pass judgement ourselves ;)
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Had this EXACT problem on my 9A, eventually the car just shut down and I was left stranded for 3 hours at 2:00am miles from home! The AA gave me a lift home eventually. This is almost definitely Hall sender failure without a doubt. I fitted a brand new distributor (hall sender included) which cured the problem immediately. If it's lurching and mis-firing when hot then it's worth checking your coolant temp sensor as well (located on the right side of the engine block, below and slightly to the left coolant flange ). Easiest way to do this is to unplug the connector and take the car for a spin. I had this problem as well as hall sender failure
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6-speed gear box in a Corrado - Nice Have you seen improvements in MPG's then?