tentonhammer

European tinting - I like!

Definately looking to pad out the doors with sound deadening matting - Fatmat or Ghost Probably, Dynamat unecesserarly expensive IMO. Makes sense to do this as I'm installing the new door speakers, while the door cards off etc. After all, I only want to do this once ;) Looking like 5.25's comps up front, unless I get a cash injection to fit some SpoonFed door pods instead (seriously considering this but have issues with paying additional duty / vat cost etc)... This would certainly sort out my Sub issue because I could fit larger drivers up front instead - I don't really want to run a sub in the boot, always hated it, plus my dog would wreck the sh*t out of it. I admit though (before I start a rukus.. lol) that comp speakers up front and a sub in the back has a lovely sound to it with loads of room and plenty of clarity, (tbh it's probaly the best option) but the practicalities of running a sub in the boot just doesn't do it for me. Mainly because I actually use the boot and need all the room I can get! Having said that, if I can make the room somehow I'd love to hear what the Kicker 11PES10C's sound like

Has it been tested? Provided it makes a noise you'll be fine (sort of). Change the valves, clean / replace dirty pots if necessary, check for any dry joints and resolder, reupholster trim etc if necessary. Fairly straight forward stuff really, there isn't alot actually going on in older amplifiers, provided it's in reasonable shape you should be fine. I done the same with my Marshal Silver Jubilee 2555 100W Head - I saw it advertised years ago and i badly needed something for stage work (Thrash, Hard-Rock, Punk, alot of lead guitar work to clean sections - that sorta stuff). I knew what sound I wanted but no other head came close. Well, except for the Dual Rectifier Mesa's but they were £1300 for the head alone at the time! I paid a fair amount for the Jubilee 2555 but boy was it worth it. It's a LOW serial, great condition black trim version with polished mirror plating too which I love, was never too keen on the early light grey versions... Never played a 1962 Fender Trem, but you can't beat that all valve sound with a decent guitar... I can certainly see the appeal. Reakon you'll need to cough up a couple of grand at least though, from what I know of them they're pretty rare!

Been looking at Audioscape pods, or rather trying to! This was my first option but I can't find the damn things anywhere! Will have to do direct speaker replacements for now front and rear. Still trying to decide whether or not to go for coaxial or component up front? If anyone running component speakers how easy were they to fit? Build needs to be discreet. Can anyone confirm the original speaker sizing? Was mounting them a problem? Mounting holes in the wrong places etc. Still undecided on which HU. Naka units are ok, although their reliability concerns me plus they look a little cheap. Becker units are better / nearing the quality I'm after - not sure I want Porsche or Ferrari written on the face though! Decided bluetooth would be nice feature as well which only makes my search even harder!

Anyone fitted a dog guard to their Corrado before? The beast often travels in the boot (parcel shelf out), slobbering (more than usual) all over my back seats and other passengers! Beside, he's a chunky monkey now really (ever loving Rotty) and can't ride in the back seats anymore, gotta be the boot so needs a guard between boot and rear seats. Guard mustn't be intrusive of the boot, seat/headrest mountable guard pref. From what I can tell, they're aren't many made for a C' but if I could one that's a near fit... Help a pooch out folks! Cheers, Ten Ton

At a stage now where I can finally turn my attention towards a new sound system (at last). Current setup is knackered - Terrible Head Unit, both front door card speakers blown / over excurted (not by me), rear parcel shelf speakers although pretty decent 6x9 Alpine's have gotta go, Will consider stealth shelving perhaps with standard round shaped drivers NOT oval type - oval type terrible IMO. As I'm bringing the car back to relatively OEM standard with minor performance / sport modifications I want the new audio setup to be medium / high end but in keeping with the car (without getting ripped off!). I want to focus more on the front end (coaxial drivers and decent HU with manual eq, CD, bluetooth etc) and only partially on the rear to balance the system (dog uses the boot alot so parcel shelf often removed rendering 6x4's useless). Want to explore using original rear speaker housings instead of using the parcel shelf really but as I said before will consider stealth shelving. Everything must be discrete / not in your face. Not keen on putting a bass box in the back either, want as much as I can on the front end. Have only just started thinking about this so got a few ideas myself but nothing concrete. Anyone running a similar setup or have any suggestions? Would be good to know your thoughts. Cheers, Ten Ton Corrado 2.0 16V 92'

Wow, Lost Paradise on Vinyl huh - never seen that before! Hold on to that one All over this today... PRONG. Forced Fed / Beg To Differ. Actually these guys evolved pretty well, can't beat their early stuff though... Straight up knock the sh*t outta you Hardcore [ATTACH=CONFIG]52921[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]52917[/ATTACH]

The early Paradise Lost years up to Draconian - where did they go...

Absolutely nothing today... Apart from a slight dip in power in 2nd and 3rd gear?? Think it's related to the intermittent temp warning light that comes on one day and stays off the next - Gunk on terminals in the header tank I think (I hope!). Messing with ECU maybe. Thoughts?

Check / clean ISV. Check for signs of corrosion / loose wires on terminal block, clean if necessary. Recently had the same thing happen to me - Turns out a wire had broken away from the ISV terminal block. A simple re-solder and length of heat shrink fixed the problem.

Some minor mods are acceptable IMO but not necessary. My 2.0 16V has a shaved front bumper, adjustable coilovers, smoothed Borbet alloys, Continental low profile tyres, SS replacement exhaust system, Black leather interior, central locking etc. Ride height is not too low not too high - just enough to improve stability and handling. Engine is clean and sound. Clutch is smooth. Electrics are good - Everything I want and need from a car really. Yes it helps if your motor looks the business but seriously, I'll take a clean and well maintained stock engine over a good looking motor any day.

What's The Haunted? Great photos

Thanks Ving it looks great. I'll take it. Please PM today to arrange payment. Ten Ton ---------- Post added at 8:12 AM ---------- Previous post was at 8:04 AM ---------- Ving - PM Sent

No probs, if anyone else is interested let me know. Ten Ton

using the quick reply window (below thread) you'll see a little film real icon above the text window. Left of the film real icon is the "Insert Image" icon. Click icon, find image and upload.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]52709[/ATTACH] Found another one of the all red rears. Photo is stock, has not been photoshop'd etc

[ATTACH=CONFIG]52705[/ATTACH] Literally just swapped to OEM setup last w/e

[ATTACH=CONFIG]52701[/ATTACH] V-Dub see above. Tint was done by previous owner, he actually done a pretty good job which to be honest is quite rare!

Pioneer DEH-6010MP - The sound quality on these are pretty decent, rich clean low frequencies to crystal clear sparkling tops. It's got a nice old skool feel to it with it's singular large rotary wheel. I'm not a "throw a bass box in the boot" kinda guy, besides I wouldn't get one in there - my dog would make certain of that! But I do suggest upgrading the rear speakers at least if you intend on putting in a high quality Head Unit. You can however get away with just replacing the HU as in most cases the HU is at fault NOT the speakers. The Corrado HU and Drivers (rear and front) are to be honest - pretty f*cking terrible IMO, mainly because the units themselves are quite old and dated. Technology has moved on a hell of alot since the 90's and by simply upgrading the HU alone you'll hear a massive difference. I worked in the high end audio buisness for years, working with big rig sound systems etc on a daily basis and the one thing you learn very quickly is that a good system is about the quality of sound not the size of the boot behind it.

Presuming of course the VR battery mounting is the same as a 16V (will have to check this) there should only be one bolt and bracket to anchor it from the front. Get this tight enough and it shouldn't move at all.

I might be interested. Got a pic? Cheers, Ten Ton

All reds available (4 x rear lense, inc bulb holder, bulbs etc) if you need em. £30.00 all in and they're yours. Let me know Ten Ton

Think I'm starting to agree with you - The more I look at after market wheels, the more I realise how much of a pain they are to fit. Plus the OEM (G60) wheel is a good wheel!

Dirt cheap. Might have to check that out myself

Looking forward to the day... Where did you get yours?