tentonhammer

Great, thanks for the link. Can this washer be seen if you remove the cap and look into the distributor? I can't see anything that even resembles a washer in mine Some pics below of problem. [ATTACH=CONFIG]68089[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]68090[/ATTACH] Not sure at this stage how much / if oil has got into the distributor as well. Sorry to hear your diz crap*ed out on you!

Noticed my distributor cap is taking in small amounts of oil. Whipped the cap off and it looks like it’s missing a gasket?? I would have thought it needs one to mate the cap and distributor together to prevent this sort of thing happening surely Are the gaskets available? OR Would I be better off buying a VW distributor cap replacement if so how much? (Checked caps from Halfords etc and they all have no gasket. This is what I think is on my car at the moment) Cheers,

Where is the LAMBDA Sensor on a 16V 2.0 (9A) and are they easily replaced? I Can't find the bug*er! Cheers,

yep lol - That's the one alright, always been a fave of mine

Loverly beast for sale, I recognize it from some where? Always been a fan of the CB bonnet & CB roof I bet it shaves loads off the weight. And to get close to 300BHP out of it... That's pretty serious! I'm sure it's worth the money to the right buyer

The temp sensor (circled in pic) you say is associated with the operation of the rad fan after switch off - Is this the sensor? See below http://seekpart24.com/beru/temperature-switch-radiator-fan-824121119?c=100334&at=1583 I've gotta change / eliminate it because mine looks shagged. I'm confused though because mine has a spade connector on the top of it, the above looks like a 2 pin?

Awesome build. Inspiring even. Oh to have a garage.... !

Nice motor. Is that your Rotti?

Not a problem I can work out which fuses are for what, it was the relay positions I needed mainly. Cheers!

I’ve been trawling over the forum and have found heaps of threads about idle problems associated with the G60, VR6, 16V etc (I’m currently having idling issues of my own with my C 92 16V 2.0). A lot of the threads were believed to be either ISV or air leak related in some way – I’d like to focus on the air leak side of things as they are often harder to diagnose. ISV's are easily cleaned and / or replaced. Having accepted the fact I will now have to go over the entire vac system on my car looking for air leaks, dodgy seals, perishing pipe work etc to hopefully get to the root of my idle problem, I was hoping someone would be able to help me put a quick Test / Repair Procedure together which systematically takes the mechanic through the whole process? The process itself shouldn’t be that difficult to do. My biggest concern is allowing too much air to get into the system which could potentially makes things worse for you later on. Is there a process we should follow when looking for air leaks / removing vac pipes etc? I bet there is. Chip in whatever you can, the more info we have on this the better. Cheers, Ten Ton

Nice one, that's exactly what I needed! Right on the money mate. Cheers,

Will def check this. Sensor (temp sensor I think associated with rad and located left of manifold and left and below throttle body) looks pretty dodgy I must say. The sensor terminal is really loose. Wonder whether this is anything to do with it? Trying to find a replacement but I don't know part no. or proper name for the sensor - Anyone know? Thanks for your replies guys.

Is there a process to go through when checking / cleaning / replacing vac pipes to sort idle issues like this? I would have thought by removing brake servo you put air into the system which will only add to my problems if not done correctly - is there a procedure for this? Cheers, ---------- Post added at 11:49 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:48 AM ---------- Nice one. Hear you on the ISV cleaning, they can be well twitchy if they want to be

Cleaned ISV (first thing I thought of actually) with carb cleaner until it ran near enough clear. No jams or clogs on flap inside. Flap opens and closes manually with no problems. I want to be able to check if ISV opens and closes as it should with the car running - haven't tried doing this yet, presumably it can be done?

I think you're right, just covering all bases really, I might have missed something. Come to think of it - My ABS is working OK, had to anchor on the brakes a couple of days ago and ABS kicked in immediately. If I had a air in the system / low fluid or hydraulic pump was faulty etc this would surely affect the brake response / feel of brake pedal or clutch pedal? Def could be a red hearing... Systematically going through everything now

I've heard the potentiometers go faulty (or switches as some have called them) - Do you know what the output should read? ---------- Post added at 10:31 AM ---------- Previous post was at 9:28 AM ---------- The temperature sensor (circled in pic / associated with the operation of the radiator fan after switch off) - Do you know the actual name / part number? I'm having trouble finding a replacement that's all. Cheers,

Anyone had issues with hydraulics before?

Ahh the electron - Where would we be with out it!

More like a dry joint or wire come away from terminal probably. I'd eliminate this first.

So presumably: Send original pipe set to Roose Original pipe set copied and new pipe set manufactured. Cost given (£300ish) New pipe set delivered What's the lead time generally?

Bad connection to distributor somewhere by the sounds of it

New sub atomic Higgs Boson particles found @ CERN - Gotta love what they're doing here. Thing is unless they find out how to turn this new find into something useful - Like a new form of re-usable energy for instance (I've always felt our technological evolution will be held back by the energy resources available to us, we need something new and it's only a matter of time until we find it) it'll simply be another find that has no practical application.

Will this pipe set work for C 92 16V 2.0 (9A)? I doubt it but worth asking eh

I've been trying to work out why my C 92 16V 2.0 is idling like a panting dog at the moment?? Seriously, she sounds like my rotti. Got to get to the bottom of what's going on. When ignition on and idling (car stood still engine warm) RPM's bounce from 1000 - 1250 in fairly quick succession. IDLE DOES NOT SIT STILL. The only way to get around this is by depressing clutch slightly (to just before the bite), idle bouncing stops and idle returns to a stable 1000. This makes driving about a real nightmare because I'm constantly depressing the clutch at low RPM's to correct / stablize idle. Could this mean there's a problem with my hydraulics / Pump maybe? Would be great to hear your thoughts on this one. Cheers, Ten Ton

Gotcha makes sense. Couldn't see below the throttle body to get a glimpse of it so presumed the sensor (circled in pic) to the left of the throttle body was the switch / position sensor. Is there no throttle position sensor on these then? Presumably the throttle switch takes care of this