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edd

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Posts posted by edd

  3. Posted

    Interesting. I was having a think and if bilstein won't help you it maybe possible to get a thicker ring made up that goes under the rear strut suspension coil base plate so that it moves the base plate upwards and creates more tension on the spring when sitting. Might not work but it is a theory you could probably test quite easy with a set of Spring clamps and a bit of time....

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  6. Posted

    Ok. So put my B12's on today. Had a quick run through some back roads and car feels nicely planted, a bit stiffer than I had expected if I'm honest and possibly more so on the rear but will give it some time. I am coming from the super soft late vr setup (small diameter top caps) too so it is a fair transition.

     

    These are the ones I bought through the group buy on here (the one where Sean Jaymo had problems with the rear springs). I have an inkling that I too have faulty rear springs because the part numbers on mine rear springs reflect the faulty ones (the part numbers having changed on the ones that have been subsequently replaced by bilstein)

     

    Because of this and due to the fact I had to get the larger diameter top caps on the front I used some lowering caps on the front to try and even out my predicted difference to the front and rear due to the (potentially) faulty Springs.

     

    It was an absolute pig of a job as almost every bolt needed heat and considerable time having not been released in over 20 years. I had to pop to local garage to get front top strut nuts released with an impact wrench.

     

    Regrettably I can't shift my doubts that I have the faulty rear springs. I had to cut 40mm+ off the rear bump stops as the rears were sat on them once the car was on the ground and the rear was much higher than front; really annoying as the shocks all had to come off and apart again after a long hot day in the sun already I was cursing. Rear dropped considerably more once they were shortened though.

     

    Anyway photo of current stance, gap between top of wheel and arches seems to be slight less at back than front, but top of arch to ground seems to be fairly level all round. I'll let it settle and report back.

     

    7d4feabef04e9928c6a86afa6654dccf.jpg

     

     

     

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  7. Posted

    For my part I have been a forum member here for 13 years and CCGB member for 1 year only during that period. I'm not as devout a corrado nut as some but I log on here most days. The forum offers me something it draws me in, the CCGB didn't, I don't know why but for me it is as simple as that.....

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  8. Posted

    A lot of the part numbers have changed, the lad from SEAT helpfully put the old part numbers on the individual packets of bolts i received

     

    The ones i have tried so far seem to be correct

     

    However I take no liability for any inaccuracy in the data below, please find my working list.

     

    This does not cover every bolt, nut just the ones i wanted

     

    Edd

  9. Posted

    Thanks nice to know; however I'm also reading online that a number of people (not corrado specific) have had issues with the ride quality on the rears with B12's and bilstein customer services then advise cutting them down (which has then resolved the problems presenting). I'll try them uncut first and see how it goes

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  10. Posted

    I put new stops in Sean and took 30mm from the top and all seems well so far. I'm sure I could have taken just 25mm off but 30mm from the top is a convenient place to cut. Measure yours up and you'll see what I mean.

     

    If you cut the bump stops from the top do they not then drop down the damper strut under gravity as the diameter of the hole at the top of the bump stop is less than the bottom (in order for there to be resistance and not drop down the strut)but when you cut 30mm of the top of the bump stop you lose the smaller diameter hole.

     

    I need to shorten my bump stops for the B12's but want to keep the dust cap and this then restricts me from cutting bump stops from the bottom; I am not sure how to go about it....does it matter if they drop down, i don't suppose it does really..

  14. Posted

    As title really

     

    I need to buy loads of new nuts and bolts to put my refurbished VR6 subframe/crossmember/Radsupport/enginemounts on

     

    I have a list of what i need from ETKA online

     

    Trying to avoid driving 20 miles to local VW garage

     

    I have found them all available online in terms of matching part numbers on a SEAT website SEATPARTSHOP.CO.UK

     

    I am seeking opinion on wether they will be correct

     

    However I don't really want to spend £40 on bolts if they are all wrong

     

    Thoughts??

     

    Edd

  19. Posted

    Agree with Jim

     

    However what was the actual geometric difference between the 2 vr6 suspensions that would mean that the length of the REAR SPRINGS ONLY would need to be different to account for the transition from normal to plus axle - sounds fishy to me

  20. Posted · Edited by edd

    Yeah not fitted yet but just trying to avoid the hassle and cost of trying them out only to find out they are incorrect or even (potentially) unknowingly thinking they seem okay but actually having suspension that isn't matched as It could/should be.

     

    I'd probably feel better if I put them on and see they are clearly wrong at least I'll know then!

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  23. Posted

    Bit of a hot topic for a few of us at the moment that bought this kit a while ago but are only just getting round to fitting. Has anyone got the measurements of the length of the faulty Spring against the length of the new spring (would the length of the faulty Spring have reduced in use, does it need to be taken before put on)

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  24. Posted

    I had a vr6 many years ago that started using a fair bit of oil and I had lots of smoke on overrun and an oily plug number 6. Head came off and it Turned out to be ovalized and scored bores on number 1 and 6 IIRC. Not much help I'm afraid, it was rebored and had the Mahle oversized pistons in the end

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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