16v Caliper Hexi Bolt

[aide 0]

Decided to change rear pads and discs last night, despite best efforts I managed to grind out the fucking hexi bolt holding the calliper to the plate…. I then blunted 5 drill bits boring a hole through the bolt head which I could then use to lever it undone – this done it still won’t budge - and it’s had the anti seize and heat treatment too :mad:

 

So having bought another few bolts have decided to grind the bolt head off tonight, BUT am worried the actual carrying plate is threaded too?!?!? So if I grind it off plate and caliper will still be held together, am I right or am I missing a trick here :?:

 

Cheers in advance :D

[Joe M 0]

If its the 8mm allan headed bolts your talking about then hammer a socket onto it, think it was an 18mm that fits but cant remember exactly.

Done this on 2 cars now with success.

[dazzyvr6 0]

i had the same prolem,i ended up doing as joe said on one of the bolts and on another one i managed to get a pair of small stilsons on it

[aide 0]

I'll give the socket a try - failing that i'll wait until its off the road at the end of the month.

 

Cheers

[Henny 0]

use a spline drive socket of the correct diameter to hammer into the hex cap head... this has ALWAYS worked when I've done it... 8)

[h100vw 0]

If you grind the head off I think you'll still be stuck, as the caliper bracket won't move far enough to clear the remainder of the bolt which is running through the hub.

 

My favourite is a spline drive hammered in or molegrips if you can get the access.

 

Gavin

[aide 0]

Have had the mole grips on it with a nail through the drill hole and it just shears the nail on both sides - but then nails are pretty soft :D

 

If it comes to me chopping the bolt head off, I was hoping it would lift off if i removed the disc at same time?

[2cc 0]

Yeah, these can be a bastard to shift. The 8mm spline drive socket is definitely the way to go as you can get some decent purchase on it which you can't do with an allen key. If you do have to cut the heads then I'd tend to agree with H100VW that the clearance will be a bit tight, though not had to so couldn't say for certain. But as you are taking the discs off as well you could undo the bearing nut and move the whole lot away from the hub enough to remove the calliper carrier at the same time.

HTH

[aide 0]

ace - thats what i was hoping.

[2cc 0]

You will still have the problem of getting the remains of the bolt out of the carrier, but with it off the car you can really grip the bolt stub in a vice and bash the carrier round with a soft faced hammer. I'm pretty sure the part number for the bolts is N0199123 £1.02 each

Have fun

[aide 0]

cheers mate i'll check that number against the ones i got.

[Borat 0]

Whilst on the subject of back brakes and discs, i am looking at replacing mine, so i went to speak to VW Audi specialist and they said that when replacing the brakes you need either swap the bearings over or replace them with new ones. I thought that this was a little strange but not being a true mechanic what do you guys think?? Cheers :roll:

[h100vw 0]

That's right about the bearings. I would fit new for the sake of about 15 quid for both sides.

Gavin

[Borat 0]

cheers Gav thanks mate i will get that sorted cos i think my rear left wheel is wering so it needs sorting. May as well do the lot

Cheers mate :wink:

[theRuler 0]

one time i tried everything to remove one of them socket cap screws (everything but spline socket hammered on - grrr)

in the end i drilled loadsa holes in the disc. enough to cut a bit out of it, and slide the disc off. then i got the hub off, and got it in a vice where it was easy to work on.

[aide 0]

Borat - see if you have any movement in your wheel when you got it raised, if not give it a spin and make sure it's not just the rusted edge of your disc rubbing on the caliper.

 

Rado is finally of road next monday for works to begin, will be grinding the disc off if necessary :D

[corradophil 3]

A good tip for undoing stubborn bolts is to hit the head of the bolt hard several times, this shocks the bolt and frees the tread up.

Sounds far fetched I know, but its got me out of awquard situations before.

 

I agree with the spline theory, I've done that loads of times. I know there is not much room there, but make sure you hammer the spline tool in very hard, this will ensure it is deeply inserted in the bolt head and will shock the bolt as mentioned above. I have a sealey set of Allen/Torx/Spline tools which was not silly money at around £20 which would definately have the tools you need. I always use the allen tool combined with a ratchet to undo these bolts and never have problems. I always clean the head out first and hammer the tool in before even trying to undo it.