4WD (syncro) conversion (UPDATE: 20/02/05)

[rmn 0]

i realise its a bit of a crap question, but what is the best way to clean the underseal off the donor pan and the corrado too?

thanks

[CoxyLaad 0]

set fire to it ;-)

 

that is without doubt the easiest way but I am not sure setting fire to your corrado would be the most sensible course of action :roll:

[rmn 0]

:lol: so the old blow torch and scraper comes back to play and about 17 hours of work too!

i thought there might be an easy way!

[CoxyLaad 0]

yep, well, phat did his first one by dousing it in petrol then chucking a match on it. but its not recommended.... it looked like the Piper Alpha oil disaster!

[Guest]

set fire to it ;-)

 

that is without doubt the easiest way but I am not sure setting fire to your corrado would be the most sensible course of action :roll:

 

nice....8)

[gtg60 0]

Ok, here's the part numbers

Anti Roll Bar 357 511 409C

Outer Bush 357 511 437A x2

Outer Metal Clamp 357 511 433 x2

Inner Bush 357 511 413A x2

Can't find the inner clamp number at the moment but at least you can check price etc

[G60JAY 0]

i realise its a bit of a crap question, but what is the best way to clean the underseal off the donor pan and the corrado too?

thanks

You can leave most of it on there.Just remove the stuff from where your welding.

[rmn 0]

the pan cleaning starts at the weekend, well on sunday anyway

[Mike Edwards 0]

Yep - definitley clean it well away from where you'll be welding - from personal experience it can be a real pain to put out once it starts to burn...

[PhatVR6 0]

Fresh Update

 

been busy with the Shutz gun and the paint.

 

the small cracks are just where I was too eager to slap some paint on ,and I hadb't let the underseal settle. I also painted it without the use of a light, so it's patchy as hell. plus it's gone a bit cloudy in places as it was too cold.

 

another coat should sort it.

 

just offered the tank up, only to find that there's a bracket missing! I got the cross member second hand, and the previous user had cut the driver side bracket off, I'd just forgotten to replace it!! damn it, it killed me to have to scrape off al that frash undersel (it's easier when it's still soft though )

 

 

 

 

 

all in all, I think it's looking pretty factory. I've done the seams inside too, I just didn't photograph them as the boot is full of bags of new bolts.

 

[/img]

[billinjah 0]

lookin sweet as mate you gonna make that track day?

[PhatVR6 0]

I should hope so, I ain't taking the Lupo round!

[Andy Brookes 0]

looking great phat. What did you use to put the underseal on?? I know you said you used VW stuff in my post about seam sealer. Would you have the part numbers for the underseal and the seam sealant??

 

Thanks

[CoxyLaad 0]

he used a shultz gun

[Fat Tony 0]

Keep us posted great thread :notworthy:

[PhatVR6 0]

Time for a job I REALLY didn't want to do, make the downpipe fit better.

 

Previously, I'd just battered the R32 one until I could get it to fit. Whilst that was good enough for the purposes of firing it up for the first time, it's not good engouh to use on the road for 2 reasons. 1 it's too restrictive, 2 it's too close to the steering rack. S close in fact it was actually touvhing the rubber boot, no good.

 

So, I made up a wooden jig. so I could mount up the downpipe flanges, so they would stay in position when I cut the pipes out. and it also let me mount up the prop and make a fake bulkhead so I knew wher I could run the pipes without having to p1ss about welding under the car.

 

 

it's upside down, but see how the pipe move over to go around the prop coupling? well it pushes the other pipe too close to the rack. I had to reshape the left one out of the way, so I could re-route the right one to be further away from the rack whilst maintaining the full bore size as much as possible instead of it necking down in funny shapes.

 

 

simply moving it wasn't an option, as it' was already only a fingers thickness away from the prop.

 

 

After much cutting and welding and grinding (10 hours infact) I ended up with this. It now arcs around the rack much higher, yet still goes past the prop coupling with plenty of clearance.

 

 

 

Last job was to move the bottom section 15mm to the passenger side, so the cats would sit in the centre of the tunnel and clear the prop and the tunnel itself. I haven't finishwd this bit yet, hence the open pipe on the right. I ran out of wleding gas.

[24V Renshaw 0]

I'm just glad I don't have to worry about the prop shaft!! :)

At least I know the twin pipes will fit in the centre tunnel.

Does anyone do a twin de-cat for the 24v?

 

Jay

[CoxyLaad 0]

Its a bit more complicated with the 24v motor as it has lambda probes before and after the cat that are checking to make sure the cat is doing its job.

 

Obviously removing it will need some work on the back probes too. You might be able to just hang them in the air though.

[24V Renshaw 0]

or switch it off on Vag-com?

All it will do is tell you the cat is knackered so if you tell it to stop looking for the cat it should be OK.

 

Jay

[PhatVR6 0]

there are people working on new chips that ignore the immobiliser and rear probes.

[Blair 0]

Jeez....not just impressed at the work that's gone in so far, but at the committment to tackle something like this!

 

Brownie points all round - as an ex-regular of the VW show scene up to 5 years ago, I might have to start attending again to see some of these creations in the metal :)

[PhatVR6 0]

Got the inner arches sealed back up at last, paint is still wet in these pics, hence why it looks a bit weird on some.

Fuel tank is now in too, after I fitted that other bracket up on the left. note the use of new bolts and straps and brakcets throughout.

 

unfortunately the filler neck sits too high for the corrado, and the neck does sit poprerly in the tank, this also means that the fuel filler flap won't shut properly.

 

but check out the paintwork!

 

I'll re drill the mounting flange for the filler neck to drop it down a bit, which should solve both of these problems.

[CoxyLaad 0]

cool, mines gonna look like a shed in comparison lol

[goodridge 0]

Very impressive stuff :thumb right:

[PhatVR6 0]

Ive decided to make up a spacer plate, to bolt to the car, then bolt the filler neck to that to drop it right down, 30mm should do it.