G60 not starting still

[cossywraps 0]

I'm currently at a loss as to why my C won't start (cranks but no spark), after ruling everything else out I narrowed it down to the ECU. I sent this off to be repaired and they said it looked like a bad earth had caused the ECU to overload. I've now got the 'repaired' ECU back and checked all ground connections I could find but it still won't start :cry: .

 

The problem seems to be that the distributor isn't getting the correct voltage (only 2V, instead of 12V?), I've checked the wiring from the ecu connector and it seems fine.

 

It's been suggested that it could be the ignition coil as it is not pulsing, but I assume this is because the distributor isn't pulsing because it doesn't have the correct voltage...

 

Another reason why I don't think it's the coil is that the ISV doesn't buzz as it should when the ignition is on. The car is fitted with a VW logic 900 immobiliser could this be causing the problem?

 

I have been unable to drive my C for 3 months now and am getting really quite desperate...

 

Any help very much appreciated.

thanks

Dom

 

'91 black G60

[steveo29 0]

it does sound like a duff ecu..most common thing is people change the clutch and leave the earth off the gearbox..then it fries the ecu

id suggest going over all the earth point properly..maybe replace a few ,and then borrow a known good one to try

[brian g60 corrado 0]

hi cssywraps i had same fault after much testig faund ignition switch to be faulty it was spinning over but no spark i found that when trying to start if i turned key harder it would spark and fire up . so changed ignition switch (behind ignition key )now stating every time hope this helps you out

[cossywraps 0]

thanks for the help much appreciated. I think you may well be right about the ignition switch because I don't seem to be getting power to the ECU connector at terminal 1 which leads from the ignition switch (although I get power to the other terminals?).

 

I'll try turning the key hard to see if that makes a difference, otherwise do you now of a test to make sure it's the ignition switch?

 

many thanks

Dom

[cossywraps 0]

Well I'm not sure it's the ignition switch now, as turning the key harder doesn't make a difference and all electrics work normally with the ignition on. ..

 

I've found however that the transfer pump doesn't audibly run when the ignition is on, checked the relay and wiring to it and the pump is getting a voltage it just doesn't work. I therefore might assume I need a new one, however surely a duff pump wouldn't stop there being a spark or indeed the ISV from buzzing?

 

Or is it possible that because I'm not getting fuel the ECU decides not to generate a spark???

 

I don't really know where to go from here, so any suggestions or recommendations for a good VW specialist in the South are much appreciated.

 

thanks Dom

[Henny 0]

Hi Dom,

 

The symptoms you describe would almost instantly point me to thinking it's a faulty immobiliser, or as Brian g60 corrado suggested, ignition switch or relay... 8) Don't rule out the switch just 'cos it doesn't work if you turn it harder, you're talking about a switch that has probably been turned at least 2 times a day, almost every day for the last 10 years or so! :shock: If I turned that much I'd want to break! :lol:

 

The fact that you have several different items (all of them on ignition circuits) that are either getting no voltage, or much lower voltage than they should, yet the car will crank over OK makes me think that one of the 2 or more circuits that the immobiliser works on is not de-immobilising... A good autoelectrician or car alarm installers should be able to sort this out, or at least probe the system to find out where the voltage is being stopped and thus what your problem is... :? :)

 

Just for the record, whenever I buy a car I take it to my local (TRUSTED! :lol: ) alarm place and have the electrics put back to standard and then a new alarm fitted... That way you can guarantee that some little fault with an old alarm is not going to come and bite you in the bum! :lol: It normally costs me about £350 for a new Cat1 alarm/immobiliser and having the wiring sorted first, but I know that the car will almost certainly be where I left it and will never have an alarm problem as long as I have the car... :D It's worth the money for the peace of mind and the lack of hassle... 8)

 

Hope you find your fault soon and get both yourself and your C where you should be... On the road, enjoying each other! 8) :lol:

[cossywraps 0]

Well I just thought I'd let you all know I've finally had a bit of progress with identifying my (G60) problems.

 

After more testing me and a mate eventually found that the ECU wasn't getting a high enough voltage when the multipoint connector is physically attached to the ECU (there was 12V when unplugged though!). This led us to find a dodgy ECU relay which seemed to be working ok but must have had a duff resistor or something because replacing that now means I have a spark and ISV buzz.

 

However it still wouldn't start because for some reason the fuel pump wasn't working :roll:

 

A quick check of the fuel pump relay showed that it works and the fuel pump is ok as it runs when the terminals on the relay are jumpered. I decided to try and start the car with the fuel pump relay sellotaped (so that it is constantly on) and bingo it starts :D . I go for a quick drive and all is well.....or so I thought until I park and try and pull the relay out to stop the fuel pump constantly going, somehow I managed to create a spark and the next thing I know the fuse box is on fire :shock:

 

thank heavens I had a fire extinguisher in the car and the only damage was to the terminals on the fuse box at the fuel pump relay. Definitely not my finest hour.

 

So if anyone knows of a fusebox/block going begging please let me know.

 

In the meantime I've opened up the ECU to find a blown transitor which might be a cause for the fuel pump not working as the ECU.

 

Thanks for all the suggestions of fixes, hopefully I'm getting closer to being back on the road.....

[Lockey 0]

:cry: At last someone who has had the same problem. My C has been suffering from the same cut out problem as yours for months now. I have taken it to two garages to be checked out, one a VW spec, and the other VAG. The car would either not start, or would start and then cut out after anytime, any speed. The ISV would not buzz, and hence the car would not start. I have had the ECU tested, replaced every relay, had the fuse board removed and checked for cracks, had every wire traced and reconnected, changed plugs, cap, leads, coil, battery, alternator, idle value. Had alarm & imob taken out. I have had the fuel pump pressure tested, the ignition switch has been changed and the bloody thing still cuts out at anytime. It could be fine for a few days, any milage and then cut out. Most of the time it would re start after a few minutes, but sometimes it wouldn't start for over 1 hr. It's a shame you set fire to your fuse board as I would have been keen to read if you did indeed solve the problem. If you can think of any thing that I have missed, or possible ideas.....please

[dr_mat 0]

The fuel pump on my VR6 doesn't start running till the engine is turning. I think it simply doesn't work until the pressure drops in the line, to prevent damage to the pump or the lines.

I know very clearly when my fuel pump is running - it's getting louder.. :(

But this problem *does* sound a lot like a faulty immobiliser. The VW original immob is well known amongst corrado drivers for doing this kind of thing. There's a sensor inside the steering column that detects the presence of the key (assuming it's working right). It's this sensor that usually fails.

[cossywraps 0]

Lockey,

 

I did eventually fix my C, in hind sight it would seem that the original problem was a faulty ignition relay which caused my ECU to overload and stop working properly. Although I didn't pick up on the dodgy relay until after I'd had the ECU repaired (at a cost of £200!) so as soon as I put it back in it broke again. After changing the relay the car would work intermittently so I opened up the ECU myself to find a blown transistor, I got my electronic engineer work mates to solder in a new one which cost me the grand total of 6p and hey presto my C is back on the road. :D

 

I'm not sure any of the above is of help to you, but good luck with it.

[Gee60 0]

Lockey,

 

....problem was a faulty ignition relay ....

 

where is the relay located ? :shock:

[cossywraps 0]

The ignition relay is on the fuse box which is behind the underdash pocket on the right of the steering column. The relays should be labelled in your owners manual. If the relay is working you should be able to hear the relay click when you turn the ignition before the starter motor engages...but if you've had all your relays replaced it seems unlikely this is the problem..

 

Dom

[dubboy 0]

Gee60 same problem happened to me on my MK1 Golf, after everything i tried it came down to a fuel pump relay.

The circuit board would dry out and fry itself. Replaced it with after market ones but after a few months would have the same problem. Brought a proper VAG one and got a second hand fuse box and never hand any problems there after.

I know you said you have replaced all the relays have you got a proper VAG one (should be a BOSCH part) for the fuel pump relay.

[Banana Man 0]

I had this problem last year everyone that I spoke to said it was the ecu but I just had a feeling it wasn't this as the year before I had a new ecu fitted so I bit the bullit and bought a new distributer as I couldn't think of anything else that it could be at the time lucky enough I guessed right and it was the hall sender on the dizzy that was knackered bought the dizzy from euro car parts cost about £120 I think.