Kx3isme 0 Posted June 7, 2003 Ok folks, for almost 5 months now ive been having this terrible misfire, i mean absolutly dumping gas. Well, after replacing EVERYTHING in the fuel system (basically) , i got tired of it, and i decided it was probably my injectors.... So... I bought the high flow injectors, performance fuel pressure regulator, 65mm power pulley, stage 3 chip, isv re route, serp belt, charger belt, and a v belt. OK, well now i just an hour ago installed everything... theres even MORE dumping now... and i also cleaned my plugs too... but the only thing im thinking was that from all that dumping... is it possible that my 0xygen sensor is shot, and i need to replace it ? And how much would the 02 sensor possibly control anyways? You guys have any ideas? By the way, the charger sounds like a beast now... but unfortunatly, its very very hard to get into high rpm, due to the lack of acceleration... please help :lol: Less of the swearing please Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
G60Jet 1 Posted June 7, 2003 Have you tried changing the plug leads? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kx3isme 0 Posted June 7, 2003 no whats a plug lead? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kx3isme 0 Posted June 7, 2003 no mate, could you help me out and tell me what the plug leads are? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
G60Jet 1 Posted June 7, 2003 Spark plug leads? things that connect the spark plug to the distrubuter. You installed all that and you dont know what a plug lead is? Are you american and they have a differnent name for the m or something? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kx3isme 0 Posted June 7, 2003 ya thats what u meant by plug leads right? help me out im lost Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
G60Jet 1 Posted June 7, 2003 okay If you have a misfire then you could have a plug lead breaking down!! and not getting a spark in the chamber, hence unburnt fuel! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kx3isme 0 Posted June 7, 2003 does that mean just replace the spark plugs? because ive replaced those at least 5 differant times now.. w6 heat index, bosch platinum.. everytime.. after repairing everything you can think of, it still f***s up... does the 02 sensor really control that much of the spark? If the 02 were completly shot, would a dump of fuel like im having be a symptom? thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
G60Jet 1 Posted June 8, 2003 No the lead/cable that connects to the spark plugs!! The O2 Sensor helps control the fueling but if thats gone then the car runs on a safty setting from what i understand. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kx3isme 0 Posted June 8, 2003 is that true guys? does anyone know anymore info on the 02, if its shot? (because of my 2 bad injectors, dumping fuel, i believe my 02 is shot) come on boys, lets hear them ideas! I got 16 psi just waiting to roar, i gotta fix the misfire, and ill be done with it! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kx3isme 0 Posted June 8, 2003 seriously guys, im like | | this close from giving up, selling this peice, and getting another g60, because at this point, ive had it with this bullshit, come on, save a C, help me out gimme some ideas Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Banana Man 0 Posted June 8, 2003 When the O2 sensor is shot the cars fuelling shuts down to a safety mode which nigel has outlined itcould cause the fuelling to go through the roof as when mine had shutdown it was very hesitant it was running about 14% co when in natural state should be a max of 3%. By the sounds of it Kx3isme yucould have a problem with the sensor, most garages will have a lambda sensor checker which will be able to tell you weather its shot or not!! I would get it checked before you replace it as they aren't cheap at around the £80 mark. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kx3isme 0 Posted June 8, 2003 Ok, so just to recap: As you have explained, if my 02 sensor was shot, my computer would set an emergency setting which would be full dump or supposed high fuel. My question to you is: Assuming my 02 sensor was shot, and given my injectors are high flow, and i have a performance fuel pressure regulator, would that make the problem seem even worse? And not to distract from the given problem, but theres a very loud whistle coming from my front left drivers side of the car around 3-4 k rpm... any ideas on that one? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VR6 0 Posted June 10, 2003 Ok, just got back from the shop... got my new supercharger pipe put in, the one that goes to the intercooler, because it was mad leaking, and i got my brand new oxygen sensor put in (4 wire). Well, nothing at all changed... im another 300 dollars down the hole. I was thinking that since my ecu was set on the emergency setting, it might need to be reset? Maybe thats why there was no change? How long should i disconnect it from the battery for? 25 minutes? Any other ideas fellas? Heres whats really erks my chain! My mechanic said he drove it after he installed my mods, and he said it ran fine! and as soon as i get in it, it misfires like a b****! what the hell is going on here? The mods he did btw are the stage3chip, 65mmpulley ,isv ,performance fuel pressure regulator and high flow injectors. Why would a car do this? And i brought it to a volkswagon dealership, they said there were some vacuum hoses that they replaced, then it worked fine, then about 2 days later it fucks up again SOMEONE HELP! MY CAR IS CURSED!! VOODOO!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kx3isme 0 Posted June 11, 2003 im so mad, i dont even know what to do anymore, theres nothing else to even replace... maybe my ecu ... i dunno i might just junk the thing... diagnosing services just cost alot of money and dont get me anywhere.. looks like the g60 might die within the week :cry: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VR6 0 Posted June 11, 2003 Have you changed the plug leads as suggested above? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kx3isme 0 Posted June 11, 2003 no ... they cost around 70 dollars american... i dont even have 20 dollars anymore... ive wasted over 7 grand on this bs... i dont see how some leads could fix anything... heres something else id like everyone to see, the CEO of bahnbrenner: Ok right when i first bought the car I immediatly got it serviced , so i know that all my belts and fluids were new. I had gotten brand new bosch platinum spark plugs , distributor cap, rotor, wires, fuel filter, oil filter. Got oil changed with mobil 1 10w-40. Then from there on these are some of the problem i encountered. Be sure that you have Bosch W6DPO plugs and Bosch cap and rotor. About 2 months down the road, i had trouble starting the car, finding that my battery was being completly drained for some odd reason. So i was buying batteries alot. My mechanic actually thought it was my starter motor, so i bought a rebuilt bosch one. Its a good starter motor, too bad i didnt need it. Never did find out why my batteries are being drained so fast though. You may need a new alternator. Low voltage to the ecu will cause this problem. Then about another 3 months down the road, i was driving a steady speed, and my 2nd gear syncro broke off ... that was a sad day. Anyways, down to the meat. I was driving at 45 miles an hour, and all of a sudden i get this really really odd misfire out of no where... Like when i gased it, it would kind of clear out, around 3k, then around 5 k it would start missing again. So, i was thinking what could this possibly be... My friends and i were convinced it was the fuel pressure regulator.. so i did that (it was oem) ... it did nothing. Then we thought maybe the fuel filter was bad. That did nothing.... then we figured it may be the plugs, so i replaced those, again with bosch... did nothing. We were reminded that maybe our 02 sensor had been clogged up, so we replaced that about 4 days after the previous parts. That also did nothing. We also tried the Blue coolant temperature sensor ive been hearing about... that also did nothing. We replaced the black one also (for no reason). Then a mechanic told me he did a little research (less then research then ive hoped)and that there was a power fuse relay he could try , because that control supposedly alot of voltage or something or other. That of course did nothing. Then i took it to the vw dealership in Ft.Myers, they diagnosed it as #1 and #3 injectors being bad, and the 02 sensor being shot. And an air valve not closing or opening completly which would be bad for idle... which would have mostly nothing to do with my problem. Anyways, after hearing that, i decided that if i had to replace the injectors, mind as well get an extra 8 psi right? So i got the 65mm pulley, stage 3 chip, isv reroute,serp belt accordingly, supercharger heavy duty belt, performance fuel pressure regulator. My mechanic opened up the supercharger, since we were down there already mind as well take a look at the seals... so we found a peice of metal in the housing, so then we find that one of the seals is gone for the one of the blades, we had a spare g60, so we took a seal off it, and replace our seal. All other seals looked good, and the strips looked fine. We put that back together, bam, got that all done... anyways start it up, no luck at all, just poured out the gas now... but heres the interesting part. Volkswagen dealership told me they replaced some vacuum lines that were broken one time, charged me 300 dollars, and it was good! But then 2 days later... it screws up again?!?!? Then, after my parts were put in, my mechanic told me he took it for a test drive, he said no misfire at all !?!?! Then, once i get in it... it misfires or dumps like crazy (both times we cleaned plugs for ensurity) Check your voltage, replace all vac lines…. Not just a few. Keep the line to the ecu 1M long. I question the condition of your charger, it does not sound good. If you spit a strip seal then you have a damaged charger. Swap out your cap and rotor, check you plug wires for an arc. Heres some more symptoms: Once it gets warmed up, it wont even rev over 5 k in IDLE!?! it will just start missing... isnt that bizzare?? If i were to shift into 2nd, and go to about 3k, thats as far as it will accelerate.. after that, missing and dumping. Once u start up the car, you can drive it hard for about 1 whole minute, and it will pull like a bitch, then all of a sudden, it will just flood flood flood like noahs ark... and thats all i can explain over the internet.. One more thing: When i had my old oem injectors in, its like it would bog down, would misfire like im talking about then BAM ur head would whiplash, and ud start pulling like a mofo, but then, u start missing again... what the hell type of curse do i got doc? Thanks a bunch -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- If the things that I’ve already told you don’t fix it then there is nothing I can do for you without inspecting the car. Did you replace you knock sensor? Sincerely, John Betz CEO Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
G60Jet 1 Posted June 11, 2003 Kx3isme, A im sure you can go buy one lead and swap it in turn to check them!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CaiosG60 PWR 0 Posted June 11, 2003 I'm know expert or mechanic and would usually not have a clue. But it does sound exactly like what my cars acelaration was like when the timing was all f@*ked up. All hesitant and then all of a sudden a bit of power then it goes hesitant again! I had just bough my car and I got the cam belt changed. When I got it back it drove like bag of nails. They had set the timming to what VW say it should be and given it back to me. The timing seamed way off! When setup propaly at a Bosch tunning garage it was fine again! I don't know the reason for the timing on my G60 being so out. Perapse a previous owner has fitted a high lift cam or the chip! Good Luck (maintance is a BIT*H!!!!!!!!!!! :evil: ) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Henny 0 Posted June 11, 2003 I've got 4 ideas to help you find what this could be... One you can check yourself (zero cost!) one you can check if you've got access to an adjustable timing light/strobe and two that are questions that no-one else has asked... Firstly, DO NOT CHANGE ANY MORE PARTS! you may be making life difficult for yourself by changing more and more parts... Because you've not identified what the actual cause of the fault is, you have no idea as to if any of the parts you have changed were faulty, or are just making things worse... (there, at least I'm not telling you to spend money! :lol:) :idea: First idea :idea: (free one to check, just need ramps or axle stands... :) ) And not to distract from the given problem, but theres a very loud whistle coming from my front left drivers side of the car around 3-4 k rpm... any ideas on that one? LOUD WHISTLE? As in an air escaping kind of noise? Your problem sounds like you've got FUEL and SPARKS, but not enough air... I'll expand on that 'cos it sounds slightly silly unless you know where I'm heading with this... stay with me here... 8) The intercooler is on the left hand side of a G60... There's a whole shed load of pipework between the charger and the inlet manifold, if you have an air leak at any point after the charger (split pipe, punctured intercooler, or even a loose connection) then you'll get a whistling noise as the air escapes out and doesn't get to the engine... This may cause overfueling as there's not enough air getting into the engine for the fuel. Your problem would be worse now because your system is now designed to throw fuel into the engine 'cos it's expecting a whole hell of a lot of air under pressure from your uprated charger which it's not getting 'cos of the air leak... To find this one, put the front of the car up on ramps, get someone to rev it 'til you can just hear the whistle, and try and find out EXACTLY where it's coming from... Obviously BE CAREFUL! :roll: there's gonna be quite a few fast moving parts if you're revving the engine to find any leak... :shock: :idea: Second idea... :idea: You could have an ignition timing problem which is related to the speed of the engine... IE, at idle it seems OK, cos there's no timing changes at all... If there's a fault with the distributor, hall effect sender, or ECU then the timing could be failing to advance with the engine revs, or advancing too much causing a mis-fire like you have... Check the timing with an adjustable timing strobe at idle as you would normally do, and then up the revs to 2K and make a note of where the timing now is... then 3K, then 4K until it starts to mis-fuel.... You may find out nothing by doing this... but if you find that your timing suddenly jumps at 4k by 20degrees or something silly like that, then you've found you problem! 8) I know this doesn't identify the faulty component, but at least you then know where you are looking... :?: Third Idea/question :?: Do you have an alarm/immobiliser fitted to the car? It is possible that the reason that your car was eating batteries is 'cos an alarm or immobiliser that's fitted to the car has become faulty... If it's an immobiliser, then it may have broken down in such a way that it's semi-immobilising the ignition system ALL THE TIME... :shock: Depending on which circuits the immobiliser acts on and where on those circuits it's attached to, a faulty immobiliser could cause all of the symptoms you've described due to it messing up the timing/ignition... :?: Fourth (and final!) Idea/Question :?: You broke 2nd gear... :( To repair this, someone took out the gearbox and either stripped it and repaired it, or simply fitted a new or second hand box... There's an earth strap (braided copper, about an inch wide) between the gearbox and the chassis, if this wire is damaged, not installed properly, or has crappy contacts then you could now have a damaged ECU which could cause the kind of timing/fueling problems you are having... The strap is the earth for the engine... When you try to start the engine, this strap is your direct earth contact back to the battery... If it's not fitted or has become crappy then the electricity will try and find an alternative route back to the battery... The route it will take is through the ECU... This burns out a track on the ECUs circuit board. :shock: Here's the killer, it doesn't neccesarily make it fail completely or instantly... you can drive around on it for a while as normal, and then it can just suddenly pack in... It only takes ONE attempt to start the car without the earthstrap attached to do this damage to the ECU... If you open the ECU up you can normally tell 'cos there's a sodding thick track on the circuit board and if it's been damaged, it'll be pretty obviously burnt... The good news is that, if this is the case, you can often repair the track with some good thick wire and a soldering iron... If you open up the ECU and find that it is burnt, do not forget to check your earth straps before trying to start the car again or you'll burn it out again! :roll: I hope that this give you some ideas as to what the cause of your problems is so that you can solve them and get the car where it should be... On the road being enjoyed by it's owner! :lol: Good Luck! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kx3isme 0 Posted June 12, 2003 Thank you for all your possible solutions... but ive made the choice of letting my moms boyfriend just basically fuck around with it, take a bunch of guesses, and see if he can do anything... 1 thing he will check is the timing... but if he cant do anything, then im gonna sell it for maybe 1500, then buy a 2.0Ltalon non turbo... then buy a turbo kit for it... boost 16 psi.. and will be faster then the g60... sorry guys, ive had it Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
